What torqueflight 727 transmission rebuild kit do I need????

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440Scamp71

440Scamp71

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Hey all,
New to this site because I'm approaching new ground. Never done much to a transmission but I think it's time. I'm dropping a 440 in my car soon and I need my torqueflight 727 to hold up. I've read around and I've heard I'll need a 16 roller sprag along with a valve body and rebuild kit. Any recommendations on good kits?

I saw OPT has a pretty complete kit but I can't find much on it. Any thoughts on this kit?

I looking to daily this car during the spring. Would there be any problem as far as durability of the transmission if I were to use a reverse manual valve body?
I new to this(just got my license:lol:) so feel free to tell me I'm wrong.
Thanks for any input!!
 
It sounds like this won't be a crazy build, but more of street cruiser, although not much detail was provided about the engine. In this case, skip the manual valve bodies and just go with a shift kit and the Transtar kit 70aarcuda suggested. At the power level I assume you'll be at, that is under 450 horsepower, a 727 needs nothing more than stock rebuilb with good parts, a decent torque converter, a good transmission fluid cooler added, and a shift kit will help.
 
Bobzilla said:
It sounds like this won't be a crazy build, but more of street cruiser, although not much detail was provided about the engine. In this case, skip the manual valve bodies and just go with a shift kit and the Transtar kit 70aarcuda suggested. At the power level I assume you'll be at, that is under 450 horsepower, a 727 needs nothing more than stock rebuilb with good parts, a decent torque converter, a good transmission fluid cooler added, and a shift kit will help.
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Sorry I should have added the 440 is around 500hp(my best guess) not to far off 450hp. I'm building it now with a stroker kit and 440 source aluminum heads and cam around purple shaft specs. I'll skip the manual valve body. Thoughts on a sprag? I fear destroying stuff:) I might end up calling A&A. Thanks!
 
With the storker combo, it's time for upgrades. A call to A and A is good choice. Now, definitely a shift kit, still need a good transmission cooler, but time for a better converter and upgraded frictions and steels with the rebuild. Probably a good candidate for the A and A ultimate sprag, as I predict tons of long smokey burnouts.
 
Bobzilla said:
With the storker combo, it's time for upgrades. A call to A and A is good choice. Now, definitely a shift kit, still need a good transmission cooler, but time for a better converter and upgraded frictions and steels with the rebuild. Probably a good candidate for the A and A ultimate sprag, as I predict tons of long smokey burnouts.
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I'm looking to buy an aluminum radiator with a built in transmission cooler. I assume this will cover my tranny cooling needs.
1969383S said:
Call A&A.
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So I called A&A and they gave me a list of parts that I plan to order. This includes A&A's 16 roller sprag, transgo tf-2 shift kit, heavy duty band strut, 4.2 second gear band lever, a wider 2nd gear band(red with grooves), and the 5 thin red frictions overhaul kit. My question is concerning the kit. Are the 5 thin clutches truly superior to the regular 4? Richard(the guy I talked to) never mentioned a billet servo. Are my servos going to hold out? Any other parts that I should replace for this build that haven't been mentioned?

I hope to begin putting stuff together after school gets out:)
 
440Scamp71 said:
I'm looking to buy an aluminum radiator with a built in transmission cooler. I assume this will cover my tranny cooling needs.

So I called A&A and they gave me a list of parts that I plan to order. This includes A&A's 16 roller sprag, transgo tf-2 shift kit, heavy duty band strut, 4.2 second gear band lever, a wider 2nd gear band(red with grooves), and the 5 thin red frictions overhaul kit. My question is concerning the kit. Are the 5 thin clutches truly superior to the regular 4? Richard(the guy I talked to) never mentioned a billet servo. Are my servos going to hold out? Any other parts that I should replace for this build that haven't been mentioned?

I hope to begin putting stuff together after school gets out:)
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They should. Attention to detail on re-assembly. The 5 thin are better in my opinion. Transgo is all I have ever used and highly recommend. If you can find 65/67ish servo’s use them, they work best with the TF2.
 
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I don't see where you said that you were going to do the actual rebuilding of the transmission.
But I highly recommend that you get this book. It's by Tom Hand who is also on this website here is the link that talks about it.


!!!BUY THIS BOOK!!! ??
 
Jadaharabi said:
I don't see where you said that you were going to do the actual rebuilding of the transmission.
But I highly recommend that you get this book. It's by Tom Hand who is also on this website here is the link that talks about it.


!!!BUY THIS BOOK!!! ??
Click to expand...

I do plan on doing the rebuild. I'll try to find a rebuild book as the one suggested does look helpful. I've been doing a couple hours every night of research and planning for this build so I hope for it to go smoothly. I have completely disassembled the tranny and I'm now looking to buy a overhaul kit, sprag, solid band, strut, gear band lever, shift kit, and billet low/reverse piston(possibly). I'll buy some assembly lube as well. The torque converter I'll get from a friend.

After reading some more on sprags I decided to go with a 4 bolt 12 roller sprag because its cheaper and I don't have to drill more holes. I read on some other threads that the factory sprags work fine and only fail under operator error.
 
440Scamp71 said:
I do plan on doing the rebuild. I'll try to find a rebuild book as the one suggested does look helpful. I've been doing a couple hours every night of research and planning for this build so I hope for it to go smoothly. I have completely disassembled the tranny and I'm now looking to buy a overhaul kit, sprag, solid band, strut, gear band lever, shift kit, and billet low/reverse piston(possibly). I'll buy some assembly lube as well. The torque converter I'll get from a friend.

After reading some more on sprags I decided to go with a 4 bolt 12 roller sprag because its cheaper and I don't have to drill more holes. I read on some other threads that the factory sprags work fine and only fail under operator error.
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And or drive train failure! Always replace the spag after a shaft or similar drive train failure.
 
440Scamp71 said:
I do plan on doing the rebuild. I'll try to find a rebuild book as the one suggested does look helpful. I've been doing a couple hours every night of research and planning for this build so I hope for it to go smoothly. I have completely disassembled the tranny and I'm now looking to buy a overhaul kit, sprag, solid band, strut, gear band lever, shift kit, and billet low/reverse piston(possibly). I'll buy some assembly lube as well. The torque converter I'll get from a friend.

After reading some more on sprags I decided to go with a 4 bolt 12 roller sprag because its cheaper and I don't have to drill more holes. I read on some other threads that the factory sprags work fine and only fail under operator error.
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Whoever told you that the rear sprag fails under operator error only is full of BS.
Put a bolt in sprag in it.
 
1969383S said:
And or drive train failure! Always replace the spag after a shaft or similar drive train failure.
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Jadaharabi said:
Whoever told you that the rear sprag fails under operator error only is full of BS.
Put a bolt in sprag in it.
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Sorry I didn't make that clear. I do plan to replace the sprag but I don't plan on installing a 6 bolt sprag. The 4 bolt 12 roller sprag I linked previously is the one I plan to use. However TCI seems to have discontinued this sprag. If I can't find a TCI sprag I thought I read you can drill though the stock sprag and bolt it in. After drilling I would then replace the sprag's rollers, springs, and retainer. Is this still destined to explode?
 
Ok one last question. I know I've been shifting back and forth forever, but I think I've found the sprag I want. Any thoughts on the coan racing super sprag? I'm looking at this sprag because it isn't a 6 bolt, only a 4 bolt. The A&A looks like I may need a tool to drill out the holes. I'm looking to keep the internals around $600.
 
440Scamp71 said:
These look good but I read that if I replace my sprag I would be best off spending double on a 16 roller sprag. Is this true or can I really use that 12 roller?
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I have three 727 that use the 12 roller I have never needed the 16. But at the most I'm only running 450 horsepower.

Two of them are in four wheel drive full time Transmissions.
 
Get that book from Tom and in the back of it it has how several different transmission people build their transmissions and it tells you what you need to beef up. I would do this before I drop a dime on parts.
 
I ordered the A&A overhaul kit and other parts previously mentioned. My concern after receiving these parts today is that the A&A kit didn't come with bushings. Now my bushings in the transmission all looked fine but I just want to check that worn bushings won't cause catastrophic damage down the road. I plan to start assembly tomorrow.
 
Just inspect all bushings carefully. The tail housing bushing usually needs replacement. The bushings could cause a catastrophic failure, but it's not common and you would see obvious bad wear right now if that were likely to fail any time soon on your trans.
 
Replace at least the pump bushing...the front drum bushing and the tailshaft bushing.....

did you get new thrust washers?
 
70aarcuda said:
Replace at least the pump bushing...the front drum bushing and the tailshaft bushing.....

did you get new thrust washers?
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I didn't receive any thrust washers. I have connections to a guy who works on transmissions so I'll ask him to press in all new bushings as they are pretty cheap insurance.
I don't plan to touch the springs in the front clutch as I don't have the tool and they all look fine. The kit didn't include the felt like spacers on the pump and rear clutch that adjust end play so I'm hoping those will still work.
I've been having fun trying to get the bolt in sprag seated correctly in the housing. The sprag's not sucking all the way down into the back of the casing. One side is flush while the opposite side is sitting about 25 thousandths of an inch off the back. I can slide a feeler gauge around the outside of the gap between the spag and housing with no interference leading me to believe that it's clean. I've put a lot of pressure on it with no results. Gonna bring it to a friends to use his press and hope for the best.
Thanks for the help all!
 
You really should have your friend do the front clutch seals for you too. Under those springs is the direct clutch (front clutch) piston and it has rubbers seals that need to replaced. Don't skip this step.
 
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