Whats that noise coming from my 318?

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what is the purpose of using "marvel mystery oil"? if it turns out to be a stuck lifter, how would i get it unstuck? machine shop necessary in that case?

Because that's specifically what it's made for. To get into the lifters and help free them up. It does not work every single time, but it does a lot. It's a cheap try before having to tear into the engine.
 
what is the purpose of using "marvel mystery oil"? if it turns out to be a stuck lifter, how would i get it unstuck? machine shop necessary in that case?


Either the marvel mystery oil and then a fresh oil change fix the lifter

or you pull the intake.

Remove the rocker arm assemblies ,the push rods and then the lifters.

Install new lifters with cam lube on the bottoms and reassemble the engine

Should take a couple of hours , you will need a set of lifters

cam lube and valve cover and intake gaskets.

And make sure you drain the coolant before pulling the intake
 
I to noticed the "milkshake oil" coming outta the rockers not cool. & while its running just take like a .010 feeler gauge under each rocker & find out what rocker is the offender. Sould s like valve train to me.
 
sounds like my old 318 when the motor blew I fifnaly found out my ticking sound broke off the top of the pushrod it was just laying on the head inside.
 
Had the same issues with my 318; the ticking noise between cylinder 4 & 6 and the milkshake oil. After engine disassembly it turned out to be a spun cam bearing, a wipe out cam and two broken lifters. Not pretty at all. Good luck!
 
I'll check the flex plate bolts just for good measure and ease....i am going to buy some of that marvel mystery oil and try that out. Hope for the best and go from there. I'll keep you guys posted. I pushed down on the rockers and none of them sounded or appeared to be out of sync or different from the others. I dont know exactly what i am looking for though in terms of knowing whats wrong with the rocker, lifters, pushrods ect. Even if i saw it lol
 
How long did it set? Sounds like a 318 I put in an 84 ram I used to own. Sounded good when pulled, sat for 6 mo. Before installing in the ram. Ticked like crazy. Added qt. Of marvel to crankcase let idle for an hr and tick went away. Changed oil and ran it for 3 yrs w no problems. Not that uncommon for a Mopar lifter to stick. I'd start w the easy stuff
 
Cool just put in some marvel mystery oil. Let prey. Hmmmm bahhhh! Be back to let you guys know what happened. Thanks everyone!
 
Your welcome. Glad to help a fellow member. Don't be surprised if it comes and goes again. A couple hours work and a new set of lifters and you'll be good to go.
 
Good deal. I was pretty sure that is all it was. I have had brand new lifters collapse driving long distance at high rpms because of low gears.
 
Now make sure you use a good quality oil like Mobil-1 in it.

And change the oil when it turns from light brown to black regardless of the miles on it.

If it's black it's ready to come out
 
Random question spin off of the current subject....if i end up replacing all the lifters, should i go ahead and replace the pushrods and camshaft at the same time, or does that matter at all?
 
Random question spin off of the current subject....if i end up replacing all the lifters, should i go ahead and replace the pushrods and camshaft at the same time, or does that matter at all?


You could probably get away with just the lifters , and I would do all 16 of them.

Getting into the cam is a lot more work and I wouldn't do it if the cam lobes look ok , which you can see with the intake off
 
On the lifters it depends, assuming you have a flat tappet cam setup the lifters has to be broken into the camshaft, changing old lifters out and installing new ones on a flat tappet cam can ruin the new lifters and camshaft because they are not broken into each other. In a roller cam setup you can get away with that.
 
Random question spin off of the current subject....if i end up replacing all the lifters, should i go ahead and replace the pushrods and camshaft at the same time, or does that matter at all?


If it stays running fine, I wouldn't worry about it. They may not s"tick" again. It's possible the engine sat for a while and things gummed up a tad.

Just change that oil out now and run it for a bit. Make sure to use oil with zinc in it or an additive.
 
I would not replace all lifters without going to a little hotter cam. One or two, maybe. Keep an eye on the oil for water / coolant, get it GOOD and warm to drive out condensation after changing oil and filter
 
I would not replace all lifters without going to a little hotter cam. One or two, maybe. Keep an eye on the oil for water / coolant, get it GOOD and warm to drive out condensation after changing oil and filter


If you don't replace them all at once then you would be just guessing at which ones were bad and probably have to tear into it again.

Easier to replace the whole set at once
 
is there a special tool too remove the lifters so that I don't damage the cam lobes or the engine during disassembly? i am referring to removing the lifters only. FYI this is purely for future reference for me in case i have to change them out sooner than later. Of course i am not going to rip apart the block if it is running well with no noises.
 
Because that's specifically what it's made for. To get into the lifters and help free them up. It does not work every single time, but it does a lot. It's a cheap try before having to tear into the engine.

It also serves another purpose,,

If the noise hadn't gone away and the lifters needed removal,, you'll find the Mystery Oil has desolved most of the varnish build up at the bottom of the lifter,, making them easier to remove from the bore..

They often come out with just a magnet,, saving having to use the lifter "slide-hammer" removal tool..

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hope it helps
 
If you don't replace them all at once then you would be just guessing at which ones were bad and probably have to tear into it again.

Easier to replace the whole set at once

No, disagree

A good mechanic should be able to identify which ones are ticking.

I was referring to cost. If you are gonna spend the money on a complete set of lifters, don't waste them on a low-perf 318 cam, put a little better cam in there
 
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