Sure;Hey guys,
Got my car back together finally and the engine is a major disappointment! It is a 360 and my old 318 was better. I'm not expecting 13 second 1/4 s but I can barely spin a 225/60. Runs smoothly though. Some advice would be great!
1972 Dart
1974 stock 360 short block, with 34k. Still had crosshatch in cylinders. Pistons down .080
X heads cc'ed at 68, .029 head gaskets. Should be low 8s for CR? XE 268 cam.
Edelbrock 600 with 71 340 intake, Edelbrock square to spreadbore adapter plate. 70 340 exhaust manifolds with 2.5 inch with h pipe exhaust.
24* initial timing, all in at 2200 for 34 total. 3.23 rear, 904 trans, Pat Blaise high stall 360 converter, may be too low? Cranking compression is between 140 and 150.
Any ideas?
I would first check the cam lobes, easy but messy the way I stated.It's a completely stock bottom end, didn't take it apart. So factory pistons.
Going from a carb that's jetted correctly w/a heated intake to a cold iron intake is going to require a bump of 4..maybe 6 equivalent jet sizes depending on the actual changeThe Eddy was on my 318, ran well, did check floats. I did block crossover, so maybe on jets. Didn't check preload on lifters. From what everyone is saying I'm afraid I f'ed up the timing somehow.
I have a similar build, just a stock 8.0ish with RPM intake, stock 49 year old Carter AVS and xe 268, stock exhaust manifolds. 2 black stripes for 60+feet. You should see similar, although that cam needs 3.55's and 2600 at the converter regardless of what comps website says. Something is way off and missed.I'm not suggesting a cam lobe. I'm saying that you have something major wrong. You don't change a jet size or up the timing 2* and find what your missing. It will be a major, and you'll know it when you see it.
- throttle only going part way open? Back mechanicals coming open or is the choke arm prohibiting it?
Then the 8.4:1 SCR mentioned earlier is about right. I am not 100% sure that your cranking compression check is accurate; gauges can be off. I would expect 135-140 psi. Cranking compression would read higher if the cam is timed too advanced, but then your torque sounds low overall from your description of symptoms, and that would be the opposite of a too advanced cam.It's a completely stock bottom end, didn't take it apart. So factory pistons.
I'd just see where you are at the moment.... And I don't recommend advancing a cam without a specific reason.Ok. I've done some checking. All the pushrods spin when I had them marked! So cam lobes should be OK which is great. I think 318willrun and some of others were on the nose with cam timing. Apparently I failed there somehow. The intake valve should open at 28* BTDC, it doesn't move until at least 18*! So it looks like I'll be pulling the timing chain cover. Thank you for confirming it should run well if I get timing right! Does anyone recommend I should run the cam advanced at all since I have to redo it anyway?
The cam you have has a 4 degree ground in advance. A bit more will help low end torque a bit but if you are off a tooth, then just getting it right will make a massive difference.Ok. I've done some checking. All the pushrods spin when I had them marked! So cam lobes should be OK which is great. I think 318willrun and some of others were on the nose with cam timing. Apparently I failed there somehow. The intake valve should open at 28* BTDC, it doesn't move until at least 18*! So it looks like I'll be pulling the timing chain cover. Thank you for confirming it should run well if I get timing right! Does anyone recommend I should run the cam advanced at all since I have to redo it anyway?