who to buy stroker kit from??

[Brian Hafliger]

Well, NOTHING lasts forever...but 600 ponies with a CAST 4" crank?? Serious???

The 9000 series Scat's are cast STEEL, not grey iron like OEM's.

Yes they last just fine as long as there is NO detonation, and you don't launch the car with a transbrake.
Call Scat and ask them yourself!!

 

[dusterdoug]

The 9000 series Scat's are cast STEEL, not grey iron like OEM's.

Yes they last just fine as long as there is NO detonation, and you don't launch the car with a transbrake.
Call Scat and ask them yourself!!

No need to call SCAT, I trust your opinion!

 

[POS Dakota]

Detonation have something to do with it??

That, I couldnt tell ya for sure, but it's definitely possible.
Both of the cases I know about locally, they broke in the same spot.
One was in a lightly boosted dakota (could have been detonation!), and the other in a mild cammed n/a engine.

*Again for clarification this was the eagle cast crank, not the Scat.*

 

[G. G. LEVERETTE]

Before I started on the 340 I purchased the BIG-INCH small block book by a chrysler engineer. His opinion differs signifiantly from some of those posted here. Visit www.cartechbooks.com for a copy of the book.

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

Has anyone actually had at least one of the Scat, MP, K1, Eagle and Ohio crank in their hands who can report an actual comparison of quality? Maybe provide a ranking by quality?

the ohio crank is a scat/mopar crank, from what I know.

I buzz mine 6500+ no sweat.

 

[Brian Hafliger]

My replies about the Scat crank are not OPINONS!! They are FACT. Make no mistake about that...
Is 4340 forged better...always. Can everyone afford it...NO! Does the cast STEEL crank have it's place...YOU BET!!

If I was building a 600HP 408 that was going to be drag raced and launched from a trans brake I would not use the CAST crank.
But we've used them for years, even in dirt track cars making 500-540HP and so far they've gone at least 6 seasons.

Don't know what else to say...
Pick what best fits YOU, or what makes YOU feel comfortable. Everybody has a different opinion on engine's and the how's or why's...what works for some may not work for others.

I'm speaking from experience with this product so that you guys can make a somewhat educated decision about what components you choose. That's all.
I hope it helps, and if you disagree with me that's OK too! I don't expect everybody to agree with me.
If I had the money for a forged crank, that's what I would run. But if your tightly budgeted...the cast crank works for alot of applications.
Hope that helps some....

 

['64 Cuda]

Brian, when I get ready to buy my 408 kit I'll definitely be checking with you.

 

[myasylum]

There is someone on here who has a picture of a Eagle crank that broke. It was a bad situation. I think that crank wasn't properly balanced though. Those cranks can't be used right out of the box, and I think that is where a lot of the problem is. People just assume they are fine right out of the box.

 

[crackedback]

Before I started on the 340 I purchased the BIG-INCH small block book by a chrysler engineer. His opinion differs signifiantly from some of those posted here. Visit www.cartechbooks.com for a copy of the book.

The same book that says a production car block shouldn't be used in excess of 400hp... that book? :wack:

Proven wrong at race tracks and streets around the country every day.