Ritter 59 degree iron block

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PASCAMP>>>" 600+hp guy that wants to play with Camaros and Mustangs is kinda screwed though" FRICKIN BINGO..... could of not said it better myself......
Try bringing a 400-500 HP car to Woodward or wherever on cruise night ... 75% or MORE of the not stock Camaros and Mustangs will eat you ALIVE .....you need MINIMUM 550-600 HP
 
rrvolare said:
PASCAMP>>>" 600+hp guy that wants to play with Camaros and Mustangs is kinda screwed though" FRICKIN BINGO..... could of not said it better myself......
Try bringing a 400-500 HP car to Woodward or wherever on cruise night ... 75% or MORE of the not stock Camaros and Mustangs will eat you ALIVE .....you need MINIMUM 550-600 HP
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The whole idea of a muscle car is that they are bad ***. When they can't play with the new stuff....Well they go into the same category as model A's and Packards. I'm building this Dart cause I always thought they looked bare bones bad ***. I'll be damned if a punk kid in a Jap car is gonna kick my ***. So that's my quandary. Put 10k+ under the hood and hope it doesn't blow up, or cross brand lines. I might just do a junkyard SBM and a hairdryer. When it blows up just put in another.
 
Well it's just like the old saying how fast you want to go depends on the pocket book, and with some of thelectrons newer cars alot of the stuff they put on isn't cheap either, plus they have to worry about smog laws in most places. One of the things that stinks with new mopars companties hear that magic word "Hemi" and jack the price up. Blocks are like anything else have to have them checked and mostly fixed, look at most problems people have with Indy heads, those need work donext, heads need to be gone through and not just slapped on. Mopars have never been cheap on anything, want to build cheap go build a Chevy. I've read that when the r3 blocks first came out they needed the same amount of work done as well to get them right. If it takes a little longer for my block to be right so be it, it will pay off in the end. I can't wait to get the block shipped to me.
 
What's your Frickin point rrvolare?? We all get what you are trying to say so no need to repeat the math on and on.
It was always more expensive to be a Mopar guy... nobody here wants or can compete with Dart.
Any serious effort building a serious SB Mopar engine will be EXPENSIVE... as was mentioned several times above.

Btw. the new Muscle Motors Big Block starts at 3800$, and needs machine work to finish.
 
Stixx THE FRICKIN FACTS is the price, i think i posted the price once and then updated it shortly after ....no jibber Jabber BS , just the facts. I don't think the LA aftermarket parts can wait 5 more years to wair for a HP block to be developed and be affordable ...
Skoda is not a mopar badjed ?
BB's "stock block" ( 250 dollars or less for a block ) can handle 600-800 HP easily... after machining block to final assembly ... that is all i am looking to make HP ....Happy New Year ... thanks
 
rrvolare said:
Stixx THE FRICKIN FACTS is the price, i think i posted the price once and then updated it shortly after ....no jibber Jabber BS , just the facts. I don't think the LA aftermarket parts can wait 5 more years to wair for a HP block to be developed and be affordable ...
Skoda is not a mopar badjed ?
BB's "stock block" ( 250 dollars or less for a block ) can handle 600-800 HP easily... after machining block to final assembly ... that is all i am looking to make HP ....Happy New Year ... thanks
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I'm asking again, because I've been doing this awhile....who is it that are doing reliable, ring sealed, nonbearing eating 800 HP stock block mopars?

I can guarantee you that if a Chevy guy came in and wanted that, he'd be buying a block. Since Chrysler guys won't front for and Chrysler is a small segment, that forces the prices up. For every 800 HP BBM's out there, there is probably 500 BBC's. 90% of those engines have aftermarket blocks. Out of the Chrysler builds, most use a stock block and fill it and put aluminum mains on it and a girdle on it and IF it makes 800 N/A it will split bores and and eat bearings and all that ****.


Keep in mind I'm talking about 800 HP engines that actually get off the dyno, go in a car and make runs commensurate with the power the dyno said it has, not dyno queens and comic book engines.

Real life sure isn't like school, there are some lessons that just can't be taught.

Love that line from "Pieces of Eight" by Styx. "Great White Hope".

Still a classic today.
 
My original goal was 600 -650 out of a sb ...and as much tq as possible .... but since the factory smallBLOCK may not be able to handle those kind of numbers ... and street manners being poor... i had no choice but to look to a BB... the HP and TQ i was shooting for from a factory BB was around 650 HP and near 700 TQ with good street manners being more reliable ....never was aiming for 800 HP... i guess i should of used a range of 600-700 out of a factory bb ?
 
rrvolare said:
My original goal was 600 -650 out of a sb ...and as much tq as possible .... but since the factory smallBLOCK may not be able to handle those kind of numbers ... and street manners being poor... i had no choice but to look to a BB... the HP and TQ i was shooting for from a factory BB was around 650 HP and near 700 TQ with good street manners being more reliable ....never was aiming for 800 HP... i guess i should of used a range of 600-700 out of a factory bb ?
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If your tune up is good, and you keep engine speed reliable under 7k you can do 600 HP on a small block. Much more than that and your pushing it.

That means a cooling system that is overkill, main studs, a block fill, a crank with center counterweights, as light a bob weight as you can get, an liking system capable of dealing with the power level you want, including a crank scraper, a damper that don't have rubber bands in it, unless you can afford the R&D to sort out your bob weight, RPM, stroke length etc, and ATI won't do it for me.

Use an engine plate at minimum, don't tie the engine down with the OE mounts and a mid plate would help like hell.

I can say the exact same things are required to build a big block anything with the power levels you want, with a stock block. It don't matter what name is on the valve cover.
 
txstang84 said:
...and that's just inside the block...let alone the heads and valvetrain...
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due to the lack of blocks readily available there have been some really great deals on top ends.... so "IF" you have the ways and means to procure a block, the power to put on it is out there. You just go in full well that if you hurt a block, that you end up with a bunch of cool parts to hang on your garage wall..... just keep that in mind (fun isn't it :) ) I know of one complete top end that was on a 9.0 deck combo that was going 8's that went to Australia for 5K and that was fresh. Ported intake, W8 heads, Jessel valve train, two sets pushrods, springs, valves. My combo, from a parts standpoint, certainly has the potential for 8's, but more reasonable minds convinced me that a mill that wouldn't require "babysitting" would provide me with a dependable mill. I logged 100 passes on mine with a few passes that dipped into the 9.4's. It's fun to wheel, and hindsite being what it is, I probably could have adjusted the valves at 20 passes and left them alone. It's really a fun combo and much more so than the big block tractor engine I had in my last car :). I've started collecting parts for my 9.0 deck block for the next venture. I hope to set this one more toward "kill" :). Small mopar has never been "cheap" or even remotely close.... R3 blocks sat untouched in warehouses for years. Two years ago when they went NS1 (no longer made) there was a feeding frenzy that emptied the Warren depot of most of the desirable blocks. Indy bought a bunch of them, mostly 59 degree stuff from what I understand.... and they want a pretty penny for them I hear. Last month I saw a 48 degree tall deck Siamese block sell on FB in about 4 hours for $3800.
 
RRVol... Good GOD! Do you ever complain ever so well! Do YOU plan or are planning to race at a seriously level?

Ritter can not make inexpensive blocks just on the amount of blocks needed vs. how many he will sell. You continue to say "If he would just....." what? Make 10,000 blocks so they would be cheap?

Good Lord, how many times can you post prices and whine about it? It is what it is and it seems to bug you to no end! If it is that bad, go get a freakin Chevy and out it in your car. Keep the good closed! No one will know!
 
maybe we should find someone who can make LS valve covers with the mopar logo on it?
:poke:
 
Can buy those billet ones someone was selling a while back, install those on a ls valve cover lol
 
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A body said:
due to the lack of blocks readily available there have been some really great deals on top ends....
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A body said:
I know of one complete top end that was on a 9.0 deck combo that was going 8's that went to Australia for 5K and that was fresh. Ported intake, W8 heads, Jessel valve train, two sets pushrods, springs, valves.
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And $5K for a top end capable of 8s is a steal, for people who actually want to go 8s and have the means to pursue it. I'm not even sure of the rrvolare's intent. This is gonna come across crass, but it sounds like copious amounts of whining to me...I'd love to have a car that can do that, but in reality, I don't and won't have the time and cash to do it...in the meantime, I'll be pretty happy to read about others who can.
 
if you want to wait for Ritter or whomever to produce a block that started at 2900 and now is at 3150 and tomorrow will be at ??? go for it ...
in the meantime i will be Going big block ... rather spend 13 000 on a big block Mopar then 15000+ on a smallblock ... to get the same power ... 650-675 HP and near 700 TQ.
 
Is this appropriate for this conversation?

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The power advantages of cubes has always been apparent with a big block have the (no freakin brained) advantage of huge cubes over a small block.

Why do you then continue to whine about it?
 
rumblefish360 said:
The power advantages of cubes has always been apparent with a big block have the (no freakin brained) advantage of huge cubes over a small block.

Why do you then continue to whine about it?
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rrvolare is about to find out a stock big block making an HONEST 650 HP has a very short life span.

My #84 post still stands. That will give you reasonable life. At 3000 pounds, you need to be running 9.5x-9.6x at 138-140 MPH
 
rrvolare said:
Brian we get it ........and now is happening to FORD.( coyote motors ) ....factory "BLOCKS "that can handle 1000 + HP ...
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Just an FYI, The Coyote motors CANNOT hold 1000hp. My counterpart on the USS Tennessee has a blower on his 5.0 Coyote, claims to be making 700hp, claims to run mid 9 second quarter mile times, says he is at his block's limit unless he comes up with $13,000+++ to replace his stock block. I told him the same thing, run a stroker 460 or 400M big block. He says he is having all sorts of problems with his 5.0 Coyote.

I would be interested to hear how well the aftermarket LS blocks cost/produce-power?

I thought that some of the enthusiasts here claimed that our filled/main-cap-studded-girdled/etc. stock blocks could do 600 hp with careful nitrous or twin turbos...?

I am sure if we compained loud enough to sound like thousands, the Chinese will produce a block for us too.
 
greymouser7 said:
Just an FYI, The Coyote motors CANNOT hold 1000hp. My counterpart on the USS Tennessee has a blower on his 5.0 Coyote, claims to be making 700hp, claims to run mid 9 second quarter mile times, says he is at his block's limit unless he comes up with $13,000+++ to replace his stock block. I told him the same thing, run a stroker 460 or 400M big block. He says he is having all sorts of problems with his 5.0 Coyote.

I would be interested to hear how well the aftermarket LS blocks cost/produce-power?

I thought that some of the enthusiasts here claimed that our filled/main-cap-studded-girdled/etc. stock blocks could do 600 hp with careful nitrous or twin turbos...?

I am sure if we compained loud enough to sound like thousands, the Chinese will produce a block for us too.
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They will take 600 HP or more if you are very careful, make sure you star with the very best block you can by sonic testing it. If it needs a sleeve or 6 then install HD sleeves or better. Better yet, sleeve all 8 holes with HD or better sleeves, fill the block, use aluminum main caps and studs, use a center counterweighted crank, don't use the stock engine mounts, only use an engine plate.

All the stuff I said in post 84. And pray it doesn't split a cylinder or knock a bearing out.
 
That's the whole thing, yeah sure we can make more the 700+ horse on a stock block. But truly how long do you think it will last. More power more stress less life.
 
<<<"rrvolare is about to find out a stock big block making an HONEST 650 HP has a very short life span.">>> Boy i would love to see a well known ENGINE builder on this site pipe in on this quote ... A WELL built stock block BIG BLOCK making 650 HP and will say just under 700 TQ naturally aspirated has a short life????? IF that was the case then the engine builders might as well close the doors ... you cannot tell me majority of big block mopars running in the 10 second bracket have an aftermarket block... I do not know of one person running a 400 or 440 in the 10's having an aftermarket block .... Hemi is a different story ..
What does short life mean ???? block cracking ??? rod failure ? please elaborate ... because if this true ... i might as well switch to chevy or ford ... Then what is safe on a big block stock block ?. 500 -550 HP ... the smallblock stock block is capable of handling that hp ?
 
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