Ritter 59 degree iron block

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That is why i have money i guess:)

...if you have the money to go fast, being on here bellyaching about how much it costs only wears out your keyboard. Do I wish I could have a really fast car? Sure...but I know how much it costs to get all the things done that I want. And I have other priorities, so the car usually takes a back burner.
 
I would be interested to hear how well the aftermarket LS blocks cost/produce-power?
All BS aside, LS blocks can probably take more than any other block ever built. I have never seen a LS block fail and have never heard a credible story of one failing. Any time you hear a LS block failure story... There's more to the story (bad tune, machine work, ect). In the early days guys would stroke stock blocks past 4" and pull the skirt out of the bore, the piston would become unstable and take the block out in the grenading process. With stock blocks being limited to 408"ish, it's basically impossible to build enough HP to break a block N/A. The turbo guys routinely turn 1000+HP on stock blocks. I can remember 3 separate LS destruction test done by magazines. I know one was called " the big bang". One was a 4.8L junkyard short block turboed to over 1200hp and 60+ dyno runs...No failure. Second was a 5.3L junkyard short block turboed to over 1300hp and 70+dyno runs. A lifter failed, they replaced it and lived again. The third was a 5.3L junkyard short block spraying rediculous nitrous. They had a multistage progressive system with awesome tuning. They sprayed until the HP wasn't increasing anymore. The motor couldn't ingest anymore. It was actually flowing out of the intake and filling the dyno room...No failure!

Most guys who use an aftermarket LS block do it because it's cheap enough that it's a "why not" proposition. Some guys use them because they want max cubes. I couldn't even guess what the HP limit is on aftermarket blocks. There's a lot of them making well over 2000hp.

As far as pricing. A new GM iron block will set you back about $300-$1000, aluminum $900-$1500. Aftermarket blocks go from there to the moon.
 
<<<"rrvolare is about to find out a stock big block making an HONEST 650 HP has a very short life span.">>> Boy i would love to see a well known ENGINE builder on this site pipe in on this quote ... A WELL built stock block BIG BLOCK making 650 HP and will say just under 700 TQ naturally aspirated has a short life????? IF that was the case then the engine builders might as well close the doors ... you cannot tell me majority of big block mopars running in the 10 second bracket have an aftermarket block... I do not know of one person running a 400 or 440 in the 10's having an aftermarket block .... Hemi is a different story ..
What does short life mean ???? block cracking ??? rod failure ? please elaborate ... because if this true ... i might as well switch to chevy or ford ... Then what is safe on a big block stock block ?. 500 -550 HP ... the smallblock stock block is capable of handling that hp ?



It isn't any better with a Chevy or ford. Ever been to a drag race? Like a divisional? And stand at the scales? Then look at what the cars run?

500 HP is the MAX I'd do with a SBC. Why? RELIABILTY. It seems you think guys are running 650 HP in 10 second cars. They are either very heavy or they don't have the HP you think they do.

As I said before, and you keep skipping....how many honest 9.50 second 3500 pound cars do you see? Not many bracket cars.

Stop shitting yourself. Have you ever driven an honest 500 HP? I know that in 1980, every Chevy SB was 500 HP until it went to the track.

One of my best friends in HS thought he had an 11 chevelle. Finally, I got him to the track. After 5 15.10-15.x passes, he and his dad pronounced the timing equipment was ****. Couldn't have been the car. It had 500 HP.
 
<<<"rrvolare is about to find out a stock big block making an HONEST 650 HP has a very short life span.">>> Boy i would love to see a well known ENGINE builder on this site pipe in on this quote ... A WELL built stock block BIG BLOCK making 650 HP and will say just under 700 TQ naturally aspirated has a short life????? IF that was the case then the engine builders might as well close the doors ... you cannot tell me majority of big block mopars running in the 10 second bracket have an aftermarket block... I do not know of one person running a 400 or 440 in the 10's having an aftermarket block .... Hemi is a different story ..
What does short life mean ???? block cracking ??? rod failure ? please elaborate ... because if this true ... i might as well switch to chevy or ford ... Then what is safe on a big block stock block ?. 500 -550 HP ... the smallblock stock block is capable of handling that hp ?

There's a lot to respond to in this post, so my mind may jump around a bit. First I'd like to say that these are just my opinions based on my life's experiences. Many may not agree, and many get pissed off, but I'm not trying to be a dick or start a fight.

The engine builders who post here regularly are brilliant guys. They have everything stacked against them and excel. They reinvent the wheel every day basically reengineering bad designs to give the Mopar community what they want. The hoops they jump through with oiling, cooling, valve train nonsense, ect is incredible. Trust me that Ford and Chevy guys don't deal with half that crap. They also have a niche market. Mopar guys who want to go fast have deep pockets and are used to catastrophic failures (it's just part of the game). The Mopar street crowd is a different breed too. They are building an engine that is going to hit the local car show 6 times during the summer. The owner will then post on here how his engine has lasted 20yrs with zero problems. As I stated these guys are brilliant. With brilliance usually comes a decent grasp on reality. I don't think any of these guys are going to tell you that these motors are meant to rack up miles.

Now here's where I'll probably piss people off. BBM's probably account for less than 1% of the engines I've dealt with, yet make up the VAST majority of catastrophic engine failures that I've seen. They had a pretty strong reputation for weak cranks. The only problem is it wasn't the cranks. It was the block gyrating like Axel Rose that would break the cranks, eat bearings, ect. As I stated in a recent post, I can even remember 200hp smog 440's blowing up. People can tell me I'm making it up or whatever. But just ask yourself, what's up with a whole market based around band-aids for Mopar blocks? Do you think Chevy and Ford guys even know what main girdles are? Aluminum main caps? Hell no. Most haven't even heard of hardblock. Aluminum rods were originally used to reduce rotating mass. In Mopars they use them as shock absorbers. To answer your question about HP limits...Well that depends on application. To rack up street miles my realistic HP limit would be around 400 with perfect machine work on a RB. Let's be honest again..most RB's never saw 100k before they hit the junkyard. For a burger joint car built by one of the guys on here, I'd follow their recommendations. For a race motor 650+HP, I would expect 1-2 seasons out of a fully prepped block.
 
<<<"rrvolare .. i might as well switch to chevy or ford ...
Please do, make the switch, your taking things way out of wack like your trying to argue just to argue while putting a stake in the *** of people's trying to help.

Please, go get a Ford Or Chevy.
 
Rumblefish ... i am not trying to argue .... i am getting ready to spend 10000+ on engine... i do not understand where you are getting your information from ... plain and simple ... i KNOW of many friends with 600-800 HP big blocks Mopars living on the track and street for a long period.. Give me facts .....
Ex: a friend of mine has issues with cam bearings on his 440 every couple of years ... come to find out the last builder did not check cam tunnel specs ... ONLY issue on that 600+ big block... corrected concern and NO more issues ...
This is constructive info that i can use when i discuss my build with my engine builder ...
OH by the way ...i also own a Mustang .. so i guess i already made the switch ...lol
Now can we get back to ritter hope.... so where were we ? thanks
 
Now here's where I'll probably piss people off. BBM's probably account for less than 1% of the engines I've dealt with, yet make up the VAST majority of catastrophic engine failures that I've seen.

They had a pretty strong reputation for weak cranks. Really? I broke a 2.2 crank once and saw a broken 360 crank (marine engine) once.

The only problem is it wasn't the cranks. It was the block gyrating like Axel Rose that would break the cranks, eat bearings, ect.

As I stated in a recent post, I can even remember 200hp smog 440's blowing up. Again, Really? Not being facetious here either. Me and my buddies in our misspent youth beat on more 440's than I care to think about and never broke one. We had one's that would overheat but never one that we couldn't drive or one that wasn't a one tire fryer.

People can tell me I'm making it up or whatever. But just ask yourself, what's up with a whole market based around band-aids for Mopar blocks? Do you think Chevy and Ford guys even know what main girdles are? Yes Ford and Chevy builders know what all of the bottom end band-aids are--especially Ford with the girdle comment.

Aluminum main caps? Hell no. Most haven't even heard of hardblock. Aluminum rods were originally used to reduce rotating mass. In Mopars they use them as shock absorbers. They are considered shock absorbers in all brand builds except Briggs & Stratton--just low cost here.

To answer your question about HP limits...Well that depends on application. To rack up street miles my realistic HP limit would be around 400 with perfect machine work on a RB. Last 440 build I did made 470 hp with a small daily driver cam and 9.5 comp, didn't give it a second thought.
Again, really?
My first 452 made 532hp 560 tq and was beat on for 10 yrs with 10's of thousands of km's-it finally broke and ARP rod bolt at the strip--RIP.
I have many many small blocks running around at much higher power levels than 400hp and I consider the small block platform inferior in terms of oil system and bottom end strength.


Let's be honest again..most RB's never saw 100k before they hit the junkyard. Not sure about this I was born in the 70's but 160,000 kms is not much. For a burger joint car built by one of the guys on here, I'd follow their recommendations. For a race motor 650+HP, I would expect 1-2 seasons out of a fully prepped block.

All responses are in the above quote. Not trying to start anything it's just amazing to me at how vastly different life experiences can be. J.Rob
 
Rumblefish ... i am not trying to argue .... i am getting ready to spend 10000+ on engine...
Then enjoy your big block and stop whining about what your NOT going
To use.
What is the point?
 
To rumblefish >>> FORD it is ,, ahhh fooled you... Its ok .. I will carry the Mopar big block mopar team on the street that may last 1 year with over 650 HP ..
 
Rumblefish ... i am not trying to argue .... i am getting ready to spend 10000+ on engine... i do not understand where you are getting your information from ... plain and simple ... i KNOW of many friends with 600-800 HP big blocks Mopars living on the track and street for a long period.. Give me facts .....
Ex: a friend of mine has issues with cam bearings on his 440 every couple of years ... come to find out the last builder did not check cam tunnel specs ... ONLY issue on that 600+ big block... corrected concern and NO more issues ...
This is constructive info that i can use when i discuss my build with my engine builder ...
OH by the way ...i also own a Mustang .. so i guess i already made the switch ...lol
Now can we get back to ritter hope.... so where were we ? thanks


So, how do you KNOW the engines produce the HP you think they do? You'd have to scale the car and look at time slips to know for sure.
 
There's a lot to respond to in this post, so my mind may jump around a bit. First I'd like to say that these are just my opinions based on my life's experiences. Many may not agree, and many get pissed off, but I'm not trying to be a dick or start a fight.

The engine builders who post here regularly are brilliant guys. They have everything stacked against them and excel. They reinvent the wheel every day basically reengineering bad designs to give the Mopar community what they want. The hoops they jump through with oiling, cooling, valve train nonsense, ect is incredible. Trust me that Ford and Chevy guys don't deal with half that crap. They also have a niche market. Mopar guys who want to go fast have deep pockets and are used to catastrophic failures (it's just part of the game). The Mopar street crowd is a different breed too. They are building an engine that is going to hit the local car show 6 times during the summer. The owner will then post on here how his engine has lasted 20yrs with zero problems. As I stated these guys are brilliant. With brilliance usually comes a decent grasp on reality. I don't think any of these guys are going to tell you that these motors are meant to rack up miles.

Now here's where I'll probably piss people off. BBM's probably account for less than 1% of the engines I've dealt with, yet make up the VAST majority of catastrophic engine failures that I've seen. They had a pretty strong reputation for weak cranks. The only problem is it wasn't the cranks. It was the block gyrating like Axel Rose that would break the cranks, eat bearings, ect. As I stated in a recent post, I can even remember 200hp smog 440's blowing up. People can tell me I'm making it up or whatever. But just ask yourself, what's up with a whole market based around band-aids for Mopar blocks? Do you think Chevy and Ford guys even know what main girdles are? Aluminum main caps? Hell no. Most haven't even heard of hardblock. Aluminum rods were originally used to reduce rotating mass. In Mopars they use them as shock absorbers. To answer your question about HP limits...Well that depends on application. To rack up street miles my realistic HP limit would be around 400 with perfect machine work on a RB. Let's be honest again..most RB's never saw 100k before they hit the junkyard. For a burger joint car built by one of the guys on here, I'd follow their recommendations. For a race motor 650+HP, I would expect 1-2 seasons out of a fully prepped block.



Damn great post. All too true. Big block chryslers making power on stock blocks flex like slinkys.
 
No no, "stinky" was the girl down the block. Her and her sister "Pastey" often roamed the city bars together.
 
I'll stick with my Chrysler blocks
if you have em.... more power to you!

Hey look!! a Unicorn!! here a Ritter block and the first set of up and running Ebrock SV heads built by Allen Sherman back in May 2016 (Sherman Racing Engines, Pasadena TX). 796HP.... this particular build was going into a 68-69 Barracuda running the 10.90 super street class.

814c9893-f076-45a2-8cbb-9a24c4099cc1_zpsrjdpkk9x.png
 
There's a lot to respond to in this post, so my mind may jump around a bit. First I'd like to say that these are just my opinions based on my life's experiences. Many may not agree, and many get pissed off, but I'm not trying to be a dick or start a fight.

The engine builders who post here regularly are brilliant guys. They have everything stacked against them and excel. They reinvent the wheel every day basically reengineering bad designs to give the Mopar community what they want. The hoops they jump through with oiling, cooling, valve train nonsense, ect is incredible. Trust me that Ford and Chevy guys don't deal with half that crap. They also have a niche market. Mopar guys who want to go fast have deep pockets and are used to catastrophic failures (it's just part of the game). The Mopar street crowd is a different breed too. They are building an engine that is going to hit the local car show 6 times during the summer. The owner will then post on here how his engine has lasted 20yrs with zero problems. As I stated these guys are brilliant. With brilliance usually comes a decent grasp on reality. I don't think any of these guys are going to tell you that these motors are meant to rack up miles.

Now here's where I'll probably piss people off. BBM's probably account for less than 1% of the engines I've dealt with, yet make up the VAST majority of catastrophic engine failures that I've seen. They had a pretty strong reputation for weak cranks. The only problem is it wasn't the cranks. It was the block gyrating like Axel Rose that would break the cranks, eat bearings, ect. As I stated in a recent post, I can even remember 200hp smog 440's blowing up. People can tell me I'm making it up or whatever. But just ask yourself, what's up with a whole market based around band-aids for Mopar blocks? Do you think Chevy and Ford guys even know what main girdles are? Aluminum main caps? Hell no. Most haven't even heard of hardblock. Aluminum rods were originally used to reduce rotating mass. In Mopars they use them as shock absorbers. To answer your question about HP limits...Well that depends on application. To rack up street miles my realistic HP limit would be around 400 with perfect machine work on a RB. Let's be honest again..most RB's never saw 100k before they hit the junkyard. For a burger joint car built by one of the guys on here, I'd follow their recommendations. For a race motor 650+HP, I would expect 1-2 seasons out of a fully prepped block.

not so fast my friend. I know a guy personally that blew up 57, 427-454 chevy engines in the 14 yrs I ran a hemi. no brag just fact. his cars were stripped race only vehicles(Camaros). mine was street legal for most of those yrs. he was always a .010 faster than me, but weighed about 800 lbs. less, was a 4 speed, and mine an auto. and also, where do you think the main stud girdle idea came from? they were originally produced for fords.
 
I talked to the engine builder 3k and up for the block machine work but otherwise said the block will take all the power you can make
 
Well got my 59 degree Ritter block yesterday, just need to get it out of my truck go over it before I take it to the machine shop for the final blue printing.
 
Well got my 59 degree Ritter block yesterday, just need to get it out of my truck go over it before I take it to the machine shop for the final blue printing.



post a few pics if you can please . thanks .
 
Interested to see what it will cost to get to Assembly state... Thanks for update
 
Will do on the pictures as soon I unload it and will post up what it costs me for everything, so far for just the block and shipping $3270.95 but that's also for a lift gate truck to deliver it but I ended up picking it up myself due to my phone not telling me I had voice mails, stupied thing
 
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