Ritter 59 degree iron block

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Yep that's what you do, most of the pre made holes line up with alot of the stock type heads, just depends on the type
 
A body said:
Purchase of block and machine work you're going to be heading N of 5K
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This is why I pulled my order back. I called the machine shop to check on machining prices and it was another 2,000+ just to get it to a usable state. Sigh........1970 truck block is still on the stand and will start assembling soon.
 
Just out of curiosity for those that bought the r3 blocks new how much was all the machine work needed for them? To make them usable. I know it's going to be quite the money but the potential looks very promising, course we will see how it handles my set up.
 
Matts440 said:
Just out of curiosity for those that bought the r3 blocks new how much was all the machine work needed for them? To make them usable. I know it's going to be quite the money but the potential looks very promising, course we will see how it handles my set up.
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The last one I built for a customer was about 750.00 of machining work done.
 
I talked to a machine shop yesterday and he stated it would cost 2000-2500 to get RItter to assembly state ..
 
I really think for the cost to get into a Ritter block if I were buying it would be aluminum.
 
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you may have seen a Jegs listing for a P4876381AB..... well, it's found a home. I was contacted last week concerning this number. My uber cool parts manager searched it and found that it was actually at a dealer in PA. It was purchased for $2100 :) as the prospective buyer wasn't too far from where it was sitting in its crated beauty. This is one that most would pass on as it has no provision for stock oiling and the low 9.0 deck, but it's a nice piece none the less sporting billet main caps and 48 degree angle. :)
 
Correct me if a wrong... but that is going to require alot of work to get it to usable state .... do they make intakes for that ?.... Dry sump system ?.... just wondering if it would of been better to get RITTER ?... just sayin...
 
Work to a usable state. On the oiling you can run either a dry sump, or belt driven wet sump pump. Intakes.... there are quite a few 420 repops and 598 intakes floating around, matter of fact people that use 9.2 decks and 9.5's have to use spacers to use these intakes. Brett Miller is also making progress in having an intake cast. His will have a larger flange that will fit a tall deck and will allow the short deck guys to machine them to fit. Timing covers for chain set ups are getting harder to find, but they do pop up for sale here and there. Quite a few use belt drive set ups anyways which are available from Weber, or Jessel.
 
Why the big $$$ needed to get a Ritter block usable? Talking to Kent it didn't seem they needed much now. The last three engines I screwed together had virtually every machining operation done to them and I never spent over $2400 on them... Decking, boring, line hone, head surfacing, rebuilt shaft rockers, valve work, rod rebuilding, pocket porting... The works. One early Hemi, one SBM and one Brand X small block.
 
That is an excellent question for Brian at IMM... he is doing one now ..
But from what i heard ..
boring /decking/size cam bearings/ return oil mods/ lifter bore machining and installing bushings etc...
 
I have heard that Kent now uses another machine shop, a real one now, so maybe the machine work is better and doesn't require that much. The lifter bushings are good to do on the older castings due to the old machine shop drilling the oil passages for the lifters with one way drill not in from front and back like factory. Everything else is just blue printing a block.
 
Interesting thread to read..
couple thoughts.

The people who cry that we don't have good blocks will never buy one at any price.

I had a new tall deck 48 degree R3 block for sale for 5 years at a great price and couldn't find a real buyer. Finally found him.

Why would anyone ever build an aftermarket block and ever offer a 59 degree version? The 48 degree setup is the only way to go. That 59 degree setup was a mistake from day one by chrysler trying to take the cheap way out.
 
Hemirunner said:
Interesting thread to read..
couple thoughts.

The people who cry that we don't have good blocks will never buy one at any price.

I had a new tall deck 48 degree R3 block for sale for 5 years at a great price and couldn't find a real buyer. Finally found him.

Why would anyone ever build an aftermarket block and ever offer a 59 degree version? The 48 degree setup is the only way to go. That 59 degree setup was a mistake from day one by chrysler trying to take the cheap way out.
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Because it's a pain in the *** to change everything over to the 48* stuff and we are talking about Chrysler guys who squeal about spending $1000.00 for rocker arms and think that what came on a 1967 440 should be able to run mid 7's in a 4000 pound car with a 2.73 gear, a 1850 RPM converter all while getting 48 MPG just like the ford and Chevy guys do.















I hope you get my sarcasm but I'm pretty close to the bone on this.
 
I don't think the 3000-3400 dollar bare block price tag is a big issue ... it is the inconsistency of how much money it will take to get it to assembly state ... I have heard from a basic bore and hone to a 2500 machine shop bill... Hard to commit at this time to a Ritter block until somebody with the most recent block produced announces the machine shop final assembly bill ... i wish i would of known about the 48 degree R3 block Hemirunner ..
 
rrvolare said:
I don't think the 3000-3400 dollar bare block price tag is a big issue ... it is the inconsistency of how much money it will take to get it to assembly state ... I have heard from a basic bore and hone to a 2500 machine shop bill... Hard to commit at this time to a Ritter block until somebody with the most recent block produced announces the machine shop final assembly bill ... i wish i would of known about the 48 degree R3 block Hemirunner ..
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You haven't worked much with either the X blocks or the R blocks have you? The ford and GM stuff doesn't fall off the pallet and build itself either. I can't count how many GM blocks I have to use .875 lifters in to get the bores close.

You ain't playing with Legos. It's not a snap together deal. I damn sure don't want to pay 3-4K for a block and not have the ability to machine the decks, or the bores or the mains myself.
 
yellow rose said:
Because it's a pain in the *** to change everything over to the 48* stuff and we are talking about Chrysler guys who squeal about spending $1000.00 for rocker arms and think that what came on a 1967 440 should be able to run mid 7's in a 4000 pound car with a 2.73 gear, a 1850 RPM converter all while getting 48 MPG just like the ford and Chevy guys do.

I hope you get my sarcasm but I'm pretty close to the bone on this.
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I get it...and you're spot on. It's a bit more expensive, especially if you're going all out for big hp, but it not any different than building anything else of this caliber. My R3 was a tall deck with the babbit bearing setup. Comp had cam cores on the shelf. No big deal. At 2K, I gave the block away. Can't wait to get it on the dyno.
 
Hemirunner said:
I get it...and you're spot on. It's a bit more expensive, especially if you're going all out for big hp, but it not any different than building anything else of this caliber. My R3 was a tall deck with the babbit bearing setup. Comp had cam cores on the shelf. No big deal. At 2K, I gave the block away. Can't wait to get it on the dyno.
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A 2 grand for that block I'd say you were raped.

Are you going to post the dyno results when it's done?
 
Sounds like the machine work needed on the Ritter is no different than any other racing deal. That clear s that up...Thanks.
 
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