For what it is worth, it is a decent bracket cam. I have run it on the street and I was not happy with it. A .030 - 360, 4.10's on a 27 inch tire and a 4spd manual. 3700 lbs. car.
292/508 question
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After reading all this it looks like I need to ditch the .509 an go to something differant.
The cam works fine if you aren't street driving it and have a 4500 converter for the track. I have one in an Aspen R/T and it sounds great, no idea what CL it's installed at as I didn't put engine together. Sounds like Tarzan, runs like Jane... I can't wait to pull the 340 and that cam out of the car.
I think it's a waste of a cam core based on the way it performs compared to a 284/484 mopar stick. Just not worth the aggravation for the little gain at the very top. There are a bunch of better cams out there that have shorter 050 durations and more lift.
I think it's a waste of a cam core based on the way it performs compared to a 284/484 mopar stick. Just not worth the aggravation for the little gain at the very top. There are a bunch of better cams out there that have shorter 050 durations and more lift.
I have the forged TRW 10.5 stock replacement pistons in + .060.
Forged stock stroke crank.
Areo 308 heads with 2.02/1.60 and their 509 lift springs.
Turbo action 8" converter. A reverse manual shift 727. I have in the car 4.88 gears and as backups 4.57s also.
What would you use for a hydralic cam in place of the 508?
95% street driven. I like the 7000 rpm range when I"m on it.
It is a 340 with a holley strip dominator an 750 dual feed holley.
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10.5 motor and at least 3.91 gear with a loose converter, you will be happy. Nice lump to boot. Do not knock these cams when used as directed. Ma Mopar did not put these out for no reason. You have to use the whole package.
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QuickDart360
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Jadaharabi your set up is ideal for the 292 cam!! No need to change it. Should be good. You have more than enough converter and gear. It's a matter of test and tune. Should be a nice street runner!!
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Can only speak from LB 383 experience, but advance it at least 4 degrees based on the 108 unit and you will get plenty of low and it will pull all the way high until the valve springs you choose start to float. In my case about 7800 max. It will start dropping efficiency after about 6800 but will still pull to max.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Here's my take on the 292/292/108, for a 360streeter
If you don't have the compression to support it nor the combo,( Deep starter gear/big rear gears), then you're going to want to advance it. So then you close the intake sooner........ and that means you also open it sooner.......messing up the very reason you have this cam, for the 76* of overlap. Sure;now you have trapped more of the intake charge, and brought up the bottom end, but you gave away a bunch of effective overlap, and along with that a bunch of power. So now you end up with a wicked sounding cam with a modicum of torque, that seems to make power, but is horribly wasteful of fuel.
At 8* advanced, you might as well install a cam 1 or maybe 2 sizes smaller, and get the torque you want/need, and have a more balanced set of events. If you need more power, tighten up the LSA for a bit more overlap, and get the power there.
That's what I did, And I have never missed that cam.
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>Say you had that 292 in at 100, for an ICA of 66*.
The intake and exhaust durations we know are each 292*
the compression duration will be 114*,
and power extraction will be 98*, count 'em 98*
The overlap is mathematically 76*, but because the intake is now opening 8* earlier, and the exhaust is also closing 8* earlier, you will have an effective overlap of just 60*. You gave up 16*. This is a big fat deal if you are running long-tubes.
>You could run a 276/284/110 cam in at 108, and have the same ICA (66*), and therefore the same compression period of 114*. Your extraction period would jump to 106*, much better on the street, and your overlap period would still be 60*! No it won't make the same power,but how many streeters need power at 6500 plus rpm? I mean with street-friendly 3.55s;7000 is about 60mph in 2.66 low gear,and I don't know why you would put an automatic behind this cam, but if you did, 7000 would be 62mph@5% slip.
But here's the deal, the smaller cam is likely to make more power sooner, and I'm guessing if you shorten the race to where the 276 cam runs out,I bet it wins.
> But say you took this 276 cam and tightened the LSA to 104, and installed it at 102 for an ICA of 60* , This would now have120* of compression, and 112* of extraction, and it would have 72* of overlap. The extra 12* of overlap would make a nice boost in power. The extra 6* of compression is usually a good thing. and the extra 6* of extraction means a few less cents per mile in fuel useage. Say it's only a nickle, that's still $250 in 5000 miles,a typical summer.
> now get this, the factory 360 2bbl cam was a 256/260/112 IIRC. It has a compression event of 124* and extraction of 116*, and overlap of just 32*. So this 276/284/104 is within a few percentage points of the compression/extraction events, yet the overlap has more than doubled. The 276 cam is about 3.5 sizes bigger and so the power-peak will have moved up about 700rpm. and that might generate X-amount of hp, if the compression and bolt-ons kept pace. But the overlap period might boost that another 7% or more. Say you were up to 300 and the overlap added 21 more. That's a nice boost I'd say.
> so now you are within a stone's throw of the power that 292 was making, but you got it several hundred rpm sooner, and it's a way fatter powerband. The compression ratio is easier to achieve, and the extraction event is saving you money with every mile you drive. And it likes those 3.55s, something you will never get from the 292.
Well, my 292* wasn't happy, even with pressure up over 180 psi(aluminum heads) and the 3.55x2.66=9.44 starter gear sucked. And the 3.55s had to stay...... so the cam had to go.
>your results may vary.
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
Some people put up with noise higher rpm rattles shakes and what not. Others just want power with smooth idle no shakes or noises. But these old muscle cars are just down right cooler with some amount of idle @ minimum!! Everybody's different in taste. But yes these cams are still powerful parts. Still relevant too!!!
Or even the .528 solid! That cam out performs the 508 by a landslide! But people always puss out because of the solid lifters.
Absolutely. Have that cam in a 340 swinger, it's a great cam with good manners. Pulls tons better than a 292 cam. The 528 solid is the most underrated camshaft in the purple shaft line up IMO.
The biggest deal with the 292 IMO, is that people will put it in an engine with stock heads that don't flow well above .430 lift. If you have a set of ported heads that flow well, it will make decent power. I still like the 284 cam better for all the reasons I stated. If you have the right complimentary parts, the 292 can work.
Jada, In an engine with a true 10.5:1 ratio, I'd still advance a 292 108LSA at least 4 and possibly up to 8 degrees. Otherwise it's going to be soft. The heads need to flow well to make it work. You have the gear and converter for it.
They made them because bigger is always better...
LOL
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Absolutely. Have that cam in a 340 swinger, it's a great cam with good manners. Pulls tons better than a 292 cam. The 528 solid is the most underrated camshaft in the purple shaft line up IMO.
The biggest deal with the 292 IMO, is that people will put it in an engine with stock heads that don't flow well above .430 lift. If you have a set of ported heads that flow well, it will make decent power. I still like the 284 cam better for all the reasons I stated. If you have the right complimentary parts, the 292 can work.
Jada, In an engine with a true 10.5:1 ratio, I'd still advance a 292 108LSA at least 4 and possibly up to 8 degrees. Otherwise it's going to be soft. The heads need to flow well to make it work. You have the gear and converter for it.
They made them because bigger is always better...
Do not disagree at all with the 528. When we talk advance are we all,saying cam degrees or crank degrees just to clarify for the others. The purple shafts were sold to be used as package deals with recipes ma Mopar described.
They were in the section of “Speed Tips” in the back of front of the book.
Always crank degrees with me.
Yes, and they/mopar still missed the mark on a lot of tuning and set up approaches. My favorite... Set total timing and let initial fall where it may. Rotten advice!
Pinion snubbers are good.... Nah, they are a crutch for a bad rear spring/suspension.
Plenty of good in those manuals, they aren't gospel.
Yes, and they/mopar still missed the mark on a lot of tuning and set up approaches. My favorite... Set total timing and let initial fall where it may. Rotten advice!
Pinion snubbers are good.... Nah, they are a crutch for a bad rear spring/suspension.
Plenty of good in those manuals, they aren't gospel.
rigger3006
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not too concerned about 1/4 mile performance , never done it. just want a kickass idle for car shows and cruising, gas mileage,same. i seem to remember posing same question about the 284/484 cam,same response from alot of the same members.id sure like to know the end all and be all cam.apparently its out there, popular consensus seems be the 268xe.no thanks
I think I have told this story before.......but back about 1992, I had a guy referred to me by a friend who wanted me to go through the 318 in his 84 W150. It had like 38s on it...I don't remember, but they were pretty big.
Anyway, the guy already had his cam picked out.......you guessed it, the 508. I tried to talk him into another cam. He wasn't havin it. So I told him it was gonna be a dead dog down low.
I got the engine done and back in and fired off to break in. When the cam was broken in good, I let her down to idle. Man that thing really sounded nasty. Especially through the new open headers I also installed. LOL
But the guy was REAL happy with it. He said it actually turned it the hell on through mud holes in low range.
Musta had some deep gears!!!!
The idle isn't going to be a while lot different from a 284 on a 108LSA. It will be marginally rougher. Not the same as going from a stock to 284. It's a small jump.
Yeah the xe268 isn't exactly raspy! Pretty docile IMO.
Have at it, you'll only know if you like it after it's in. I certainly hope it meets your expectations.
rigger3006
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yes rrr you have told that story before,lol.well im anything if not stubborn and not agreeable to popular opinion, so im going to put 508 in,live and learn i say! and i will be the first to admit the difference in performance if it is bit of a dog,if so theres definitely a 408 in the future
AJ/FormS
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Rigger
You don't need that 292 cam for a raspy idle, you need its tuff-guy overlap. You can put that on a lot smaller cam, and make far more streetable. I think they call them Thumpr's, or Whiplash
And if you put that 292 cam into an 8/1 engine, it won't sound nearly as tuff. That cam needs a lot of compression.
So then,after you boost the compression,you end up with a $4000plus engine,that gets 8mpg,has to burn premium grade fuel,that has a soggy bottom end, that needs a BIG TC and 4.10s,that you cannot parade at 2.5 mph...........and all just for the tuff-guy idle?
Well, you might need a Multi-strike CDI to keep it running, but you probably woulda needed that for the 292 anyway.
I got a cheaper idea;
crank the timing back on your stock engine, waaaay back; then jack up the float level, and fudge-up the mixture screws, and idle it down to just about stalling. There you go,Badaboom, free bad-azz idle. If you do this with a dial-back timing device, you can crank the timing back up when you leave the show,from the front seat, and get your engine back; I paid like $130 for mine, and it has built in signal amp that eliminates your ECU, and you can trigger it with anything, including points.
Lemmee figure this out; 4000 or more versus 130,hmmmmmmmmmmm.
Ok you got me; it won't sound exactly the same, but you can do that to your 276/284/104 cam, and it will, and it want's only 9.5 Scr to make a chitload of low-rpm torque, and will be reasonably happy with a TC in the 2500 to 2800 range and 3.55s, and best of all will idle down to 550 in gear,which will badazz bop along at 5mph, and with a bit of brake drag, I'll bet she'll parade at 3.5 to 4 just fine
Oh yeah, I almost forgot, point to point at anything over 2200rpm, I bet, if you're sharp, you can sneak up on 16/18mpgs. I bet you could get a lot-more with an overdrive. Like into the 20s,lol
But hey, if you gotta have a 292 to hit 112 in the qtr, well, sometimes you do what you gotta do.
You don't need that 292 cam for a raspy idle, you need its tuff-guy overlap. You can put that on a lot smaller cam, and make far more streetable. I think they call them Thumpr's, or Whiplash
And if you put that 292 cam into an 8/1 engine, it won't sound nearly as tuff. That cam needs a lot of compression.
So then,after you boost the compression,you end up with a $4000plus engine,that gets 8mpg,has to burn premium grade fuel,that has a soggy bottom end, that needs a BIG TC and 4.10s,that you cannot parade at 2.5 mph...........and all just for the tuff-guy idle?
Well, you might need a Multi-strike CDI to keep it running, but you probably woulda needed that for the 292 anyway.
I got a cheaper idea;
crank the timing back on your stock engine, waaaay back; then jack up the float level, and fudge-up the mixture screws, and idle it down to just about stalling. There you go,Badaboom, free bad-azz idle. If you do this with a dial-back timing device, you can crank the timing back up when you leave the show,from the front seat, and get your engine back; I paid like $130 for mine, and it has built in signal amp that eliminates your ECU, and you can trigger it with anything, including points.
Lemmee figure this out; 4000 or more versus 130,hmmmmmmmmmmm.
Ok you got me; it won't sound exactly the same, but you can do that to your 276/284/104 cam, and it will, and it want's only 9.5 Scr to make a chitload of low-rpm torque, and will be reasonably happy with a TC in the 2500 to 2800 range and 3.55s, and best of all will idle down to 550 in gear,which will badazz bop along at 5mph, and with a bit of brake drag, I'll bet she'll parade at 3.5 to 4 just fine
Oh yeah, I almost forgot, point to point at anything over 2200rpm, I bet, if you're sharp, you can sneak up on 16/18mpgs. I bet you could get a lot-more with an overdrive. Like into the 20s,lol
But hey, if you gotta have a 292 to hit 112 in the qtr, well, sometimes you do what you gotta do.
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Bad *** idle needed?
AJ hit it with the Thumper or Whiplash. Howard’s also has the “Rattler” wild idle cam series.
AJ hit it with the Thumper or Whiplash. Howard’s also has the “Rattler” wild idle cam series.
I kinda like that cam. Just make sure you advance it according to the static compression ratio and it will probably run well. If it's 10:1 or less, I would install it down around 100 ICL, like crackedback always recommends. That will help it a lot. I like them because they sound nasty as hell. Stupidest reason in the world to like a cam. LOL
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
Rusty I'm with you on the sound. Whiplash and thumper cams sound ok. But this one just sounds downright dirty and nasty!! Just the way I like it! But to back that up the way it sounds we need to tune/adjust things accordingly.
But to back that up the way it sounds we need to tune/adjust things accordingly. -
