dano
Evil Handy Man
What is your intended use, realistic goal and budget?
Get your 360 block sonic checked and go from there.
Get your 360 block sonic checked and go from there.
Get with BP on the exact parts needed and let them know exactly what you have and what you want to do. They can just about sew this up for you.
The engine link you have pictured has Magnum heads. So the LA intake can not be readily used. Ask BP what aluminum head style is used on the other engine.I see an LA head pictured but it should be asked! As to avoid headaches!
What is your intended use, realistic goal and budget?
Get your 360 block sonic checked and go from there.
One thing I like about 360s especially for the street,is that when you put tall flat-tops in them (like the KB 107/191s or similar),you instantly have some compression to work with. And the biggest part of that is the 740/750 or more CCs of swept volume. It is a lot easier/cheaper to get to 10/1 or more Scr, with a 360. And when you get there, you can put some cam into it and still have enough bottom end to not have to run a big TC or race gears to get moving. That close-to-zero deck gives you a lot of flexibility in choosing the top-end. Flexibility that you can use to tailor the engine to your needs and/or expectations.
Left side motor mount is different from 318 to 340 & 360. Some guys have made the left one work by adding shims to take up space. I went to Carlisle over the summer and picked up the correct mounts. Shumacher makes them but a little pricey but is worth the assurance of using the right mount.
I would have to see a picture so I’ll check one out on line tomorrow. Otherwise the best fitting header is ether Doug’s or TTII'm wondering about headers now. Hooker makes some for a 360, would 5901HKR headers work?
Port wise, the Magnum is square and most of the other LA heads are the same but not always exactly. The miss match is not to be concerned with.I mean port wise match up?
If your doing 3 inches.......The outside primary tube dia is 1-5/8". They have 3" outlets which I plan to keep the 3" all the way to the rear.
What size cherry bombs should I use, I mean length wise.
It’ll be fine for the intended use.This engine should keep up with my Holley 750 DP you think?
While more would help I don’t think you’ll feel much of a difference.Or would it need even more CFM?
No. Regular engine mounts will be fine vibration wise. Schumacher creative Services has an engine torque strap. I’ll picture it in the next post. Simple and effective no vibration.Is it a good idea to go with solid steel motor-mounts?
IIRC, it is a Poly mount.Are the Shumacher MM's solid or is there some type of vibration absorbing material to them?
Thank you!Way slick looking engine compartment you have there!
The bottom is a bent top “U” shape that bolts to the K frame. Depth wise, it is a box slanted downwards. I think I had to drill 1 hole. I forget. I’ve done a bunch of these in the last. The Poly mount is stiffer than the rubber which I used.Yeah, I will invest in a torque strap and use the poly mounts from Schumacher. I see that the top mounts to the motor mount, what does the bottom mount to? Did you have to drill a hole to bolt it through?
These are TTI headers. Go to there site for information. There tube size is stepped from 1-5/8 - 1-3/4.What brand and model, prt# if you have it, for the headers in your Cuda? If I can get some that are similar in primary diameter, I think that may be best. Are those 1-5/8"?
Try site supporter PST and tell them your on this site, FABO.BTW, do you know where to get a good used/rebuilt power steering gear box for a 70 Duster? I need one, and may as well do it now!
Ask Blue Print for what they suggest to use.Also a weighted flex plate for a non-mag engine. Do you know where to get one? The one in my car now is stock.
Hummmm, let’s see, engine mounts and torque strap, proper flex plate, headers, I don’t know... but when your short something, well, **** happens. I know we try annavoid that but.... **** happens.Is there anything I am overlooking before I buy this engine? I am ready to, but I will have to wait 4-6 weeks while they build it. Longest 4-6 weeks of my life!
Oh, by the way, if you need a distributor, check out. Blue Print’s ready to run units I spoke with @Johnny Mac abiut them and I choose a MSD like unit. There the same distributor but sold a lot cheaper than MSD. Same thing. Awesome unit in the wife’s ride.
So J-Mac said above, LA head and external 360 LA balance. A B&M flex plate designed for the external balanced LA 360 for use with a neutral balance torque converter I have done twice with smooth running results.
If it were myself, I’d do everything fresh and updated for the new combo. I wouldn’t waste time any other way.I wonder how you feel about that? Should I go ahead and get a stall TC now, or just use the same TC for now, probably will replace the trans before summer.
Halifaxhops Is a “Goodfella” in my book and will book you up right. Some guys just like to get a new distributor rather than run an old one. The important thing is that it does it’s job right and well. Halifaxhops Can put the curve into the distributor for you once you have all the specs of the car.Do you know Halifaxhops here in the forum? He rebuilds and sells Distributors. I asked him for his take on what I need to run street wise. I'm not sure which one I really need to put in. I don't want to skimp on $200 for economical purposes unless that $200 won't make much difference. I know when I switched from points to Electronic Ignition, wow. So if it is like that, I will go with the middle grade Dist. and the box BPE sells. BTW, do I need a better control module if I'm upping the voltage? OEM is in there now.
Magnum damper, la360 flexplate.
Pro products 80012. (I'm manufacturing / launching my own, but a few months out probably)
Torque converter is a matter of stall speed and matching. Not new vs old. I have had a mismatched converter kill 2 seconds of quarter mile ET. Got one custom made, dropped from 14.2 to 12.2. Back when I was younger and less worldly
If it were myself, I’d do everything fresh and updated for the new combo. I wouldn’t waste time any other way.
Halifaxhops Is a “Goodfella” in my book and will book you up right. Some guys just like to get a new distributor rather than run an old one. The important thing is that it does it’s job right and well. Halifaxhops Can put the curve into the distributor for you once you have all the specs of the car.
Going to an electronic system from points is an entire system upgrade. Do the whole thing and that is it. No worries from there. When it comes to an electronic control box, I like the MP Chrome unit or the FBO unit. Use with the matching coil and ballast resister and your done. I don’t like the Orange box. I had only two worth there salt. And they were good for there intended purposes. Once I used the Chrome box, I sold my Orange boxes.
2200 would be fine. Getting one specifically made for the cam specs and your vehicle is the trick. I have several contacts for converters at performance automatic, and ati.If I'm right, you're suggesting between 2000 and 2400 stall right? For street use, would a 2200 work good? I really don't need to launch, and I do need come up to speed a bit before the converter locks, so I'm thinkin' 2200 may work for me. What do you think?
2200 would be fine. Getting one specifically made for the cam specs and your vehicle is the trick. I have several contacts for converters at performance automatic, and ati.
The converter literally pulls off with a yank in 2 seconds if the engine is out.
You have alot of chefs in the kitchen on the ignition stuff. But for my 2 cents. The OEM type box isn't my favorite. I would go cdi box, or ready to run distributor. If you are "upgrading" your ignition., then still utilizing a mopar box that has the fail point of a ballast resistor isn't much of an upgrade. Imo of course
There are many versions of electronic ignition. The OEM type chrysler version with a ballast resistor and an orange or chrome or blue, factory type "control box" is not the most reliable, or the most efficient system out there. I toss it out on every mopar I have had at the first sign of trouble. Now this is holy war territory on a mopar site, but its a 40 year old ignition system, electronic or not, its antiquated. The ballast resistor is also a fail point.Yeah, that's what I was thinkin', the thing would fall off if you jacked the back end up high enough, lol? Putting it on might take a min or so I guess.
Can you give me a 101 on Electronic Ignition? I don't need a long detailed explanation, just the jist of it will do. I understand the higher the voltage the hotter the spark, will that mean I need different plugs? And the vacc/mech advance needs to be synchronized with the acceleration of the motor, but what is the difference between the various control boxes, what are the options for the modules, and do I need a ballast if I have like a CDI box? Is the CDI box the control module or the coil box? (Showing my ignorance here) Would it take re-wiring the ignition to upgrade the voltage to 50-60,000 volts, or would the OEM ignition wires work? Like the ones between the solenoid, the key, the coil, the control module, and the dist? That is the kind of stuff I have never had the opportunity to learn. I guess now's the time : )
Whatever Dist I end up getting, I would like HaliFaxHops to work on the advance for it. Even if I mail him a brand new one and have him re-work it, that would be fine. He sold me a dist a while back that really helped my engine's output. And the only thing he did was correct the advance!
Where do I get a Chrome Box? Would they be on Summit? I already have electronic ignition, but it is stock, what I meant was when I went from points to EI it was a big difference. I hope it is another big step up in performance to have the HEI cap Dist. in it with the Chrome Box.
I hear ya on the new converter. There is probably 5-10 more min labor to pull the TC once the flex plate and engine have been removed right? It will be needing the flex plate upgrade anyway, either way, pay now or pay later, and if it broke, well that would just suck. So yeah, I see your point.
The “stall” of the converter is a “rated” stall and can vary. To that end, call and converter company and give them all the information you can about the car. Your cam specs are one of the most major inputs for this. Along with many other factors. All of which are unknown to me. I’m really a manual 4spd guy, so, I can generalize a stall needed but I would rather let a pro handle it.
I’d call ether below;
Lenny at ultimate converter’s.
Frank Lupo at dynamic converters.
Thanks for the references, will do.
IMO, you ether run your stock ignition set up and swap in the chrome box https://bobmazzoliniracing.com/stor...ol-Units-P4120534/p/68641215/category=4308117
And proper ballast resistor for use with the stock distributor or step up to the ready to run distributor like I did and the second one Johnny Mac listed is what I recently used and like very much. It wires in very easy and is basically easier than OE stuff.
Okay, I will do some more research on it. I have had a lot of reliability with the OEM EI, never "needed" to upgrade because I ran basically stock. Now that I am going better than stock, I need a better than stock EI system too.
I was glad I talked to him (J-MAC) about this unit.
PRO SERIES READY TO RUN DISTRIBUTOR | MOPAR SB 273-360 | V8 ENGINE | BLACK CAP