Last chance to stop me from buying the hype...

-
I can offer my take on it......

If a customer wants to use those carbs on their motor...... no problem.
And if it works good ootb, that’s great too.
But if it doesn’t, and you have to start chasing the tune on the dyno....... at $100/hr...... it gets expensive real fast.
Time is $$$$........ so, if you want the engine shop to experiment....... be prepared to pay.
And it doesn’t appear jet changes are going to happen quickly with those carbs.
Screws are in the base, accessible from the bottom...... so the carb has to come off, and apart for a simple jet change.

Also, I’m going to say it’s “highly unlikely” that in a single carb application where the motor had a “bigger” cam that the idle circuit would be up to the job.

As for the dyno shop “house carbs”........ def nothing but Holley based carbs for me.
I have a variety of different ones, and which one will be used depends on what the motor is, and the predicted power output.
They need to be trouble free and not super finicky about what they’re going on.
They don’t have to be the best carbs on the planet, just something predictable and easy to work with.
 
Last edited:
PRH said:
I can offer my take on it......

If a customer wants to use those carbs on their motor...... no problem.
And if it works good ootb, that’s great too.
But if it doesn’t, and you have to start chasing the tune on the dyno....... at $100/hr...... it gets expensive real fast.
Time is $$$$........ so, if you want the engine shop to experiment....... be prepared to pay.
And it doesn’t appear jet changes are going to happen quickly with those carbs.
Screws are in the base, accessible from the bottom...... so the carb has to come off, and apart for a simple jet change.

Also, I’m going to say it’s “highly unlikely” that in a single carb application where the motor had a “bigger” cam that the idle circuit would be up to the job.
Click to expand...

same thing I thought at first when I found out the screws were on the bottom of the carb, "BUT", I read further and found out that you don't need to put those four screws in the bottom of the car to tune it. You can leave them out and just use the two top screws while tuning and be able to pull the whole carb apart from the top until it's tuned then take them off but the four screws back in..
Also I've never had my car at a Dyno shop and never felt the need for it. It's like paying somebody to have my fun.. this is my hobby and my fun and I like to take it down to the track and take passes and make adjustments..
 
PRH said:
Just order them up....... then you can become the Forum expert on Street Demons.
Click to expand...
Well it seems that way with the clutch Tamer so why not the street demon as well this summer. It seems a couple of already got the speedmasters covered and have years of good service with them..:thumbsup:...
 
j par said:
same thing I thought at first when I found out the screws were on the bottom of the carb, "BUT", I read further and found out that you don't need to put those four screws in the bottom of the car to tune it. You can leave them out and just use the two top screws while tuning and be able to pull the whole carb apart from the top until it's tuned then take them off but the four screws back in..
Also I've never had my car at a Dyno shop and never felt the need for it. It's like paying somebody to have my fun.. this is my hobby and my fun and I like to take it down to the track and take passes and make adjustments..
Click to expand...
This is why I posted that article at the top of the page so people could understand more about them and not just passed them up because they've always used Holley or they've always use Edelbrock, I know I have in the past...
 
So far I've just gotten the Holley Edelbrock argument which really seems to push me towards the Street Demon even more.. same thing I heard about the Speedmaster heads which now half the Forum seems to have LOL and can hardly wait to get the clutch tamer out of the track and Lord forbid I get a much better 60ft... A $10 bet says three-quarters of the guys that have a clutch in the car will be buying one (Grant are you hearing this I need a discount! Or at least step up with a t-shirt! LOL) and so on... do you think I haven't got a phone call from a member already saying that he's going to get one as well... A street demon that is...
 
SOoooyou guys stopped to take a breath!??? ha

Advice? Mom always said, people don't ask for advice, they ask someone to just agree with them!??

I say it is Xmas time, a man should buy him some shiny new toys.
 
The Ede/Holley argument?

Nothing to argue about imo.
I use the Holley style carbs because I like them better.

If someone else prefers Ede’s, or Street Demon’s, TQ’s, Qjet’s, or anything else for that matter........ I don’t really care.
What someone else puts on their motor will have zero impact on how my motor runs with my Holley style carbs.

From what I see in this thread is....... no one trying to talk you out of buying the Street Demon carbs........ and yet you still haven’t pulled the trigger.
 
barbee6043 said:
SOoooyou guys stopped to take a breath!??? ha

Advice? Mom always said, people don't ask for advice, they ask someone to just agree with them!??

I say it is Xmas time, a man should buy him some shiny new toys.
Click to expand...
Yes agreed right from the get-go I said I'm very zeroed in on these in post one and looking for anybody that can offer me something.. all I'm really getting is the age-old Holley vs. Edelbrock... Which in turn pushes me more and more towards the street demon LOL.. I looked them over and I see the same old thing I've always seen. Very unpleasant looking mechanisms on the top of the motor. And when I see the Street Demon and it's sleekness, and read about it's one off combination of several different carburetors it's sparks my interest.. it's not one of those 10 million
PRH said:
The Ede/Holley argument?

Nothing to argue about imo.
I use the Holley style carbs because I like them better.

If someone else prefers Ede’s, or Street Demon’s, TQ’s, Qjet’s, or anything else for that matter........ I don’t really care.
What someone else puts on their motor will have zero impact on how my motor runs with my Holley style carbs.
Click to expand...
I think I said it earlier yesterday but I just love the internet and how we're not talking to each other and things can get misunderstood. I definitely wasn't trying to imply that you were personally giving the Holley carburetor vs. Edelbrock Carburetor argument at all..
I believe without looking back I was just pointing out that it seems like maybe you didn't read that article or maybe you don't know completely about the street demon because of the way you said you had to take the whole carburetor off to tune it every time..
 
oopsie got those two together^^^
What is halfway done answering one person and started answering the other lol.. oh well no one's perfect...
 
I'm really looking for someone to read that article completely and understand what's going on with it..
 
First of all, the author of the article stated that the "idle bleed" or something like that were adjustable. I could find nothing in any picture posted that would lay claim to that. If the author was talking about air/fuel mixture screws that a totally different thing.

Also, the air valve on the secondary isn't new either. Just exactly like a TQ/Qjet.

I'm never a fan of a restrictive booster design just to try and fix atomization. You can do that better ways. Like an annular booster, which can be restrictive, but not nearly as bad as what that Demon booster has.

As PRH already mentioned, there really isn't a way to clean up the idle circuit on that carb, without some serious work. I don't see any easily changes air bleeds either.

The last thing is they never dyno tested any other carbs against those carbs. How do we know if you dropped two Holley based carbs on there you would gain 30-40 HP and gain a bunch more tuneability?

The last thing I'd say is don't buy the carbs (any carb for that matter) based on advertised CFM numbers. They are essentially meaningless.

See if you can find out what the primary Venturi diameters are. Chose the carb by that rather than CFM. You don't have to worry about the secondary side because it doesn't have a Venturi like that.

It would seem to me the 625 carb would have to have a pretty big Venturi to get the air loss back from the restrictive booster.

And I never consider anything under 750 sized venturi's for any 2x4 application. I've lost power every single time I've used smaller carbs.

The only time that didn't happen was when everyone and their mother was in love with the 660 center squirter carb. IF You used an 850 base plate it got close to a 750 but even then, the tune up from Holley was atrocious.
 
PRH said:
The Ede/Holley argument?

Nothing to argue about imo.
I use the Holley style carbs because I like them better.

If someone else prefers Ede’s, or Street Demon’s, TQ’s, Qjet’s, or anything else for that matter........ I don’t really care.
What someone else puts on their motor will have zero impact on how my motor runs with my Holley style carbs.

From what I see in this thread is....... no one trying to talk you out of buying the Street Demon carbs........ and yet you still haven’t pulled the trigger.
Click to expand...
100% correct. Catch is in the title: "Last chance to stop me from buying the hype". Jpar already knew what he was buying. He already knew he'd get a couple of positive testimonies which would support his decision. It's like Utube click bait titles. LOL :D Why he just don't say "buying Demon carbs, any tuning tips?". But then you wouldn't have 10 pages of arguing and blah blah blah…
 
Got a friend who had a 750 street demon on a mostly stock 440 save for a boost in compression and an Edelbrock performer base manifold in a large and heavy 66 four door fury. In that car, it just plain worked, made a very good street driver and would still break traction on kick down at highway speed. American Powertrain 4L60E and 3.55 or 3.73 gears. I think you'll be pleased with them. I've a few things I'd like to try on a twin carb manifold myself, but it's more to be different than to have something that makes a lot of sense to do. But we all know that the most power to be had with this application is with two big carbs that squirt fuel down all four holes that all the barrels open up at once on. If I were going to play at this level, I'd go all turd in a punch bowl and bring a whole new set of tuning headaches into my life and run straight up mechanical fuel injection.
 
maybe you don't know completely about the street demon
Click to expand...

I’ll learn about those carbs when I’m dyno testing somebody’s motor, who thought they had to have one.
Until then, I’ll continue to be happy with the assortment of nice carbs I already have sitting on the shelf.

Honestly, I’m really not all that curious about those Street Demon carbs.

If I tested one on a pretty hot motor against one of my “known good” carbs and it made noticeably more power, it might pique my interest.
Until that happens...... it’s just another one of those “meh” things for me.
 
I did read the article. That carb has ZERO new technology. It's just a repackaged mix of several carbs.

BTW, I forgot to mention if I was going to buy those carbs, they would have the phenolic center. You'd be surprised by how much heat will transfer up the intake manifold, especially in slow traffic, at stop lights and when you shut the engine down.

I have a Carter Competiton 1000 CFM TQ sitting under the bench. If I find another intake I may port it up (the sound of me typing that made me cringe) and build the TQ for it and run that for awhile.

I love most everything about the TQ. It's just not as adjustable as a Holley based carb.

BTW, there is no reason you couldn't find a couple of matching TQ's and use those. That would be cool, have more air flow and still have the mechanical/air valve secondary.
 
yellow rose said:
First of all, the author of the article stated that the "idle bleed" or something like that were adjustable. I could find nothing in any picture posted that would lay claim to that. If the author was talking about air/fuel mixture screws that a totally different thing.

Also, the air valve on the secondary isn't new either. Just exactly like a TQ/Qjet.

I'm never a fan of a restrictive booster design just to try and fix atomization. You can do that better ways. Like an annular booster, which can be restrictive, but not nearly as bad as what that Demon booster has.

As PRH already mentioned, there really isn't a way to clean up the idle circuit on that carb, without some serious work. I don't see any easily changes air bleeds either.

The last thing is they never dyno tested any other carbs against those carbs. How do we know if you dropped two Holley based carbs on there you would gain 30-40 HP and gain a bunch more tuneability?

The last thing I'd say is don't buy the carbs (any carb for that matter) based on advertised CFM numbers. They are essentially meaningless.

See if you can find out what the primary Venturi diameters are. Chose the carb by that rather than CFM. You don't have to worry about the secondary side because it doesn't have a Venturi like that.

It would seem to me the 625 carb would have to have a pretty big Venturi to get the air loss back from the restrictive booster.

And I never consider anything under 750 sized venturi's for any 2x4 application. I've lost power every single time I've used smaller carbs.

The only time that didn't happen was when everyone and their mother was in love with the 660 center squirter carb. IF You used an 850 base plate it got close to a 750 but even then, the tune up from Holley was atrocious.
Click to expand...
I'm sure they were just talking about the air fuel mixture screws on the front..
I thought that article covered it but definitely just the summit or Jegs description of them I believe it was gave the primary opening sizes.. trust me I'm thinking back and forth about going nuts to the wall and getting two 750's instead of two 625's..
I may need a cheeseburger here soon though to be completely convinced...
Although I made homemade cheeseburgers on the grill last night if it's any time soon we may have to meet up for a slice at Flying Pie or something..
 
yellow rose said:
I did read the article. That carb has ZERO new technology. It's just a repackaged mix of several carbs.

BTW, I forgot to mention if I was going to buy those carbs, they would have the phenolic center. You'd be surprised by how much heat will transfer up the intake manifold, especially in slow traffic, at stop lights and when you shut the engine down.

I have a Carter Competiton 1000 CFM TQ sitting under the bench. If I find another intake I may port it up (the sound of me typing that made me cringe) and build the TQ for it and run that for awhile.

I love most everything about the TQ. It's just not as adjustable as a Holley based carb.

BTW, there is no reason you couldn't find a couple of matching TQ's and use those. That would be cool, have more air flow and still have the mechanical/air valve secondary.
Click to expand...
Oh I didn't say the technology was brand-new I just like the new twist they were putting on all the shared Technologies and putting them in one carburetor kind of in a different way.. also remember 95% on the street so I'm very much willing to live with not being able to tune it to the millionth degree... And again I love something different...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top