Last chance to stop me from buying the hype...

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Got a friend who had a 750 street demon on a mostly stock 440 save for a boost in compression and an Edelbrock performer base manifold in a large and heavy 66 four door fury. In that car, it just plain worked, made a very good street driver and would still break traction on kick down at highway speed. American Powertrain 4L60E and 3.55 or 3.73 gears. I think you'll be pleased with them. I've a few things I'd like to try on a twin carb manifold myself, but it's more to be different than to have something that makes a lot of sense to do. But we all know that the most power to be had with this application is with two big carbs that squirt fuel down all four holes that all the barrels open up at once on. If I were going to play at this level, I'd go all turd in a punch bowl and bring a whole new set of tuning headaches into my life and run straight up mechanical fuel injection.


What did your friend test that carb against? Just curious.

And I've BTDT with MFI even to the point of developing my own barrel valves and a good 2x4 set up will blow its doors off.

Stack injectors, unless you can throw a pop can down the stacks run out of air very quickly, and it's damn near impossible to get rid of enough fuel to keep the fuel curve anywhere near close to half assed good.
 
First of all, the author of the article stated that the "idle bleed" or something like that were adjustable. I could find nothing in any picture posted that would lay claim to that. If the author was talking about air/fuel mixture screws that a totally different thing.

Also, the air valve on the secondary isn't new either. Just exactly like a TQ/Qjet.

I'm never a fan of a restrictive booster design just to try and fix atomization. You can do that better ways. Like an annular booster, which can be restrictive, but not nearly as bad as what that Demon booster has.

As PRH already mentioned, there really isn't a way to clean up the idle circuit on that carb, without some serious work. I don't see any easily changes air bleeds either.

The last thing is they never dyno tested any other carbs against those carbs. How do we know if you dropped two Holley based carbs on there you would gain 30-40 HP and gain a bunch more tuneability?

The last thing I'd say is don't buy the carbs (any carb for that matter) based on advertised CFM numbers. They are essentially meaningless.

See if you can find out what the primary Venturi diameters are. Chose the carb by that rather than CFM. You don't have to worry about the secondary side because it doesn't have a Venturi like that.

It would seem to me the 625 carb would have to have a pretty big Venturi to get the air loss back from the restrictive booster.

And I never consider anything under 750 sized venturi's for any 2x4 application. I've lost power every single time I've used smaller carbs.

The only time that didn't happen was when everyone and their mother was in love with the 660 center squirter carb. IF You used an 850 base plate it got close to a 750 but even then, the tune up from Holley was atrocious.
and playing The Devil's Advocate what if they put two Holly's on there and it didn't run as good or as much horsepower??..
 
Oh I didn't say the technology was brand-new I just like the new twist they were putting on all the shared Technologies and putting them in one carburetor kind of in a different way.. also remember 95% on the street so I'm very much willing to live with not being able to tune it to the millionth degree... And again I love something different...


I know you love to fiddle. Like I said...before I paid for those, I'd find a pair of matching TQ's and use them.

I know several sources for them. Way cool on a TR.
 
What did your friend test that carb against? Just curious.

And I've BTDT with MFI even to the point of developing my own barrel valves and a good 2x4 set up will blow its doors off.

Stack injectors, unless you can throw a pop can down the stacks run out of air very quickly, and it's damn near impossible to get rid of enough fuel to keep the fuel curve anywhere near close to half assed good.
All right you're getting a little technical with the abbreviations LOL slow down take a med...
 
and playing The Devil's Advocate what if they put two Holly's on there and it didn't run as good or as much horsepower??..


Most everything is possible. My first thing would be to look at all the dyno data and see if the carbs were pig rich, especially at WOT. Because you see that all the time.

I'm sure PRH can add to that.
 
I know you love to fiddle. Like I said...before I paid for those, I'd find a pair of matching TQ's and use them.

I know several sources for them. Way cool on a TR.
Brand new and shiny?.. I've got two old carburetors on there now that I could rebuild and dip in carburetors solution and bring out shiny but... I'm almost just tired of looking at them...
And like mentioned it is close to Christmas and we're buying our own presents this year.. (for once I'm finally getting it my way...)
 
I've got two old carburetors on there now that I could rebuild and dip in carburetors solution and bring out shiny but... I'm almost just tired of looking at them...

And there it is.
It’s not really about making it run better....... you just want some new bling for the motor.
Nothing wrong with that....... it’s part of the hobby.

I think after all this waffling....... you owe it to the forum to order those things up.

As for new/different carbs maybe/maybe not running better........
New doesn’t necessarily equal “good”.
New is “unknown”.......... might be good...... might not.
I can tell you I’ve tested plenty of new carbs that didn’t work all that well.
 
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Dual carbs = eye candy! I say get some shiny new ones, I personally just want to see some pretty pics, I give a chit how fast it all runs! ha

Mom also said, run with the big dogs, or just sit on the porch.

While on dogs, If the dog hadn't shopped to take a chit, he might have caught the rabbit?
 
I think after all this waffling....... you owe it to the forum to order those things up.


I agree. But for real data, Jpar at the least needs to get on a chassis dyno and make some pulls and then change the carbs out and see what he gets.

And if he wants to really fiddle, pull the engine and get it on a pump to see what it does with both sets of carbs.

Either way, that's the best way to evaluate this stuff.
 
Most everything is possible. My first thing would be to look at all the dyno data and see if the carbs were pig rich, especially at WOT. Because you see that all the time.

I'm sure PRH can add to that.
I think all the dyno testing on my Motors going to be done on the PIR Dyno...
 
I agree. But for real data, Jpar at the least needs to get on a chassis dyno and make some pulls and then change the carbs out and see what he gets.

And if he wants to really fiddle, pull the engine and get it on a pump to see what it does with both sets of carbs.

Either way, that's the best way to evaluate this stuff.
The problem is that kind of tuning is not that crucial to me. I like reading my plugs and keeping an eye on my wideband O2 sensor to see if they jive.. there's a guy who advertises a chassis Dyno up the street here and I talked to him and it didn't seem like he wanted anything to do with my style of car. I think he just probably made good money with the tuner crowd and wanted to leave it at that.. I like to think in my mind that he thought my kind of car would damage his machine! LOL...
 
Word of the day:

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Well, I encouraged him to try some other things out, but he didn't hold onto the car long enough to really get to try something else. I was dying to try the 850 DP spread bore Quadrajet replacement on the CH4B he had lying around. Of course there are better manifolds out there, but it was in the way anyhow. As for me, I would have gone Holley Street Dominator or the like, something towards the street side instead of a Victor or TM7, being it didn't have a lot of extra cam in it. But it would have been interesting to see. Being a street machine dubbed "the family hotrod", it would have been impractical to have went with anything other than the street demon. Sure it would have run better, but being traction limited as it already was, it would have been of no more benefit than to possibly help worsen the already poor fuel economy. But being the car came with it and it had been tuned in for the combination it really surprised us how well it did.
 
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I'm not much for these programs but it was a pretty good overview even if it was a Chevy and when he said a 350 4 speed is hard to beat I thought not really LOL And I would have liked to seen him give some more commentary after he got that stumble fixed or did he?..
 
Just let us know when you’ve rec’d the order confirmation and tracking number.
Still trying to get the money together to make the whole order. I haven't had an argument yet that's made me change my mind, but I do value everybody's opinion. Really who do I go with at this point, but myself again like everybody says it's my money and like I said from the beginning it's what I want and was just looking to make sure I wasn't making any colossal mistake..
Now it boils down to the 625 or the 750? It boils down to the Chrome and the composite? I've never had any heat soak issues whatsoever with the Edelbrock and Carter carburetor.. I do plan some small 2-in risers just to get the carburetors up where you can see him a little bit above the hood... If you seen the picture the top of them are just below the hood or about the same level.. and yes it's a look thing and no I'm not going to put a stupid wing on the back and get all crazy, I just always imagined a dual quad tunnel ram and being able to see the carburetors... Seeing the linkage moving..
 
IF everyone of us that read any of this just sent JPar 50 cents thru paypal, he would not still be sitting there counting is pennies, and considering raiding the wife's cookie jar. Count me in for 75 cents. But I want my name on the car somewhere.
Quality? costs? and does it fulfill the purpose?
We will want a written report in a timely manner, please.
 
And there it is.
It’s not really about making it run better....... you just want some new bling for the motor.
Nothing wrong with that....... it’s part of the hobby.

I think after all this waffling....... you owe it to the forum to order those things up.

As for new/different carbs maybe/maybe not running better........
New doesn’t necessarily equal “good”.
New is “unknown”.......... might be good...... might not.
I can tell you I’ve tested plenty of new carbs that didn’t work all that well.

Pretty much it in a nut shell.
 
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