Crankcase ventilation.

-
that build up on your manifold is probably oil wicking up thru the manifold bolts or a bad valve cover gasket.

anything else would oil down half the engine bay to get that much collected in one area.
The manifold bolts make sense as well as it is pooled directly in front of the carb, I need to run her up and just watch for a while. Thanks.
 
One reason PCVs get disconnected is because a bigger cam is installed in the engine, & these have less vacuum at idle. Not enough vac to pull in the pintle inside the PCV.....
So the PCV gets disconnected....
Don't know why someone would disconnect it for that reason. It would still function normally the rest of the time. If you unplug it, it never works.
 
The manifold bolts make sense as well as it is pooled directly in front of the carb, I need to run her up and just watch for a while. Thanks.
i'd go proactive on it. yoink the bolts out, mop it all up, clean off the bolts and slam them back in with some sealer.

you'd be waiting and watching a llllooonnnngggg time to see it weep.

the valve cover gasket is at least, generally, more apparent right off the jump.
 
In my 360, I once ran a 292/108 cam with a PCV and it worked just fine. My PCV had a minimum flow even at idle so it never shut off. As soon as She throttled up, even just a little, the PCV was on line.
I ran an old style closed breather that I vented out towards the apron and I just serviced that unit as often as required, which was seldom.
But yeah, the open breather ....... breathed.
 
When using remote filters, don't use the old Bypass style, as RRR seemed to suggest earlier, as they only have a Way too small inlet & outlet, 1/4" or 1/8" pipe connections are the usual sizes and are plumbed from galleys that don't get Full Flow, like pressure gauge taps.
Plumb with lines the size of filter outlet hole in block, or larger if too many elbows, which are also restrictions.
 
Excess crankcase pressure might cause the small leak at the bolt or VC gasket , & resealing will help of course, but another leak might then take its place if PCV system off.
 
I had a little oil coming out like that from the dipstick tube at high rpm on my 340 with no pcv and I put a Chevy style umbrella type dipstick in it and and cured that problem. Just had to make marks on the Chevy stick for full and add with a file.
 
I had a little oil coming out like that from the dipstick tube at high rpm on my 340 with no pcv and I put a Chevy style umbrella type dipstick in it and and cured that problem. Just had to make marks on the Chevy stick for full and add with a file.
Yeah the guy who used to own the car said he had oil coming out of the dipstick, so I’m guessing / hoping that this is a crankcase pressure issue from the ventilation system not being set up.
 
Excess crankcase pressure might cause the small leak at the bolt or VC gasket , & resealing will help of course, but another leak might then take its place if PCV system off.
I think my first step is to get the crankcase ventilation back to a functional set up, eliminate one of the variables. The current oil filter set up is plumbed from the rear 90deg adaptor forward to the front of the block with rigid pipes, I’ll take a picture tomorrow. On the principal that if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, I’m going to leave it as is for the time being.
 
One reason PCVs get disconnected is because a bigger cam is installed in the engine, & these have less vacuum at idle. Not enough vac to pull in the pintle inside the PCV.....
So the PCV gets disconnected....
I've had engines with as little as 3hg and they have all operated a PCV properly. My current slant 6 only had 6hg and it works just fine.
 
I had heard that’s why you need a baffle fitted inside the valve cover with an open breather to help stop blowback.
That's one thing worth checking. Make SURE there's nothing blocking the inlet to the PCV when you plug it into the valve cover grommet. Remove the grommet and physically LOOK at the grommet and into the valve cover and see.
 
Open breather on one side is incorrect. The valve cover breather for the PCV system should be a closed type with a hose nipple that gets a hose routed from the breather to the bottom of the air cleaner. Then you will have a complete PCV system, instead of gettin that "buildup" all over your valve cover from an incorrect open breather. You need a complete PCV system, not incomplete.

Something like this for the under side of your air cleaner:

Breather Fitting

Something like this for your valve cover:

Breather
Wow ! I just received that breather fitting today from Summit. Ordered Sunday $5.99 + tax and shipping.
 
Wow ! I just received that breather fitting today from Summit. Ordered Sunday $5.99 + tax and shipping.
I didn't post it for the price. I posted it so yall would know what to get. Deal shoppin ain't on me. LOL
 
I didn't post it for the price. I posted it so yall would know what to get. Deal shoppin ain't on me. LOL
Boy I get it.
On a stupid my luck note, package showed being delivered and not on porch nor in mailbox.

Twas delivered though once I looked around a bit.

Glad the girl didn't jump in Toy and pull forward.
Ugh !

20250401_182017.jpg
 
Boy I get it.
On a stupid my luck note, package showed being delivered and not on porch nor in mailbox.

Twas delivered though once I looked around a bit.

Glad the girl didn't jump in Toy and pull forward.
Ugh !

View attachment 1716387053
We have the same here. We get packages in the ditch next to the box, at the end of the driveway 500 feet away from the house, even in the middle of the road. We have over twenty pieces of first class mail still missing from last year. It's pathetic.
 
We have the same here. We get packages in the ditch next to the box, at the end of the driveway 500 feet away from the house, even in the middle of the road. We have over twenty pieces of first class mail still missing from last year. It's pathetic.
@RAT ROD AL sent some dash vents that got lost through USPS but . . . had another set and no problemo on that shipment.

The Summit order was Ontrac whatever that is so I suppose my only complaint would be through Summit. Ugh
 
Hi all, so first up full disclosure I have little to no practical experience here, I apologise if that's frustrating to any of you, especially if I'm asking endless dumb questions. My excuse is you can only learn by looking, asking and doing. So here goes long post with plenty of photos.
I have tried to identify the carb it's a Holley stamped with 4100 and the additional stamping reads 108.84 3. To me it looks like a 4160 as it has the secondary vacuum manifold and a manual choke.
I am trying to see where I can connect my PCV to the carb, I have identified the vacuum ports using the attached diagram and from what I can see this is the situation:

1. The powered brake booster is plumbed to the PCV vacuum port.
2. The distributor is plumbed to the full manifold vacuum port. The engine is running using a Mopar magnetic pulse ignition module so maybe this is not an issue?
3. The timed spark vacuum port is blocked off with a little lenght of tube and a bolt screwed into the tube!

So I guess I would like to know, first am I right with the above, if I am is the distributor set up an issue and where / how should I attempt to plumb in the PCV valve. I had assumed if the brake booster was using the PCV port that I would connect the PCV to the manifold port but thats connected to the distributor. I should also point out that the distributor cap has a chunk missing from it!

4160.jpg
IMG_0406.jpg
IMG_0410.jpg
IMG_0411.jpg
Noted 1.jpg
Noted 2.jpg
Noted 3.jpg
Noted 4.jpg
IMG_0390.jpg
 
So I have been looking at the intake manifold which is a Street Dominator. It has I believe a vacuum port on the branch feeding cylinder 1.
From what I understand, the PCV should be connected to the port on the base of the carb so that the blow by fumes are fed centrally into the manifold, the problem being at the moment this port is attached to the brake booster, could I disconnect the booster from this port and run it to the port on the manifold instead so still having constant vacuum? Because this is a right hand drive car the brake booster is on the wrong side, so the line will have to run to the front of the manifold and across to get to the port.


IMG_0387.jpeg
IMG_0400.jpeg
 
I wonder if #1 cylinder might go very lean when braking, & maybe want to have it draw from a central point, as they've done.
But would plumbing both together cause oil to end up in Booster?
Apparently not, as many are plumbed this way with a TEE fitting, so try that.
 

Also if small hose connections w/o clamps bother you, I use Safety Wire to make small hose clamps, double loop, just bend end of wire properly, and out of the way, so it can't stab you!
Not the unbraided vacuum hoses, they need to fit tight, to seal.
 
You make this so difficult and yet you have printed descriptions of everything on that carburetor in that picture up there ^^^^. REMOVE that metal ring around the carburetor. LOOK on the front of the choke horn and READ and then POST HERE what the number is after the word LIST. That will tell us what carburetor it is. The power brake booster should be routed to a fitting on the intake manifold by itself. The PCV should be routed to the port on the carburetor. The distributor needs to be attached to the timed spark vacuum port. If you will simply read the picture and do it, all will be well.
 
Righty, if you will simply READ and DO, you will fix a lot of your issues.

HOLLEY DIAGRAM.jpg
 
i've 't'eed the pcv and servo hoses together more than once with no issues. i keep the 't' fairly close to the carb. carb n umbers on a holley to id it are stamped on the front of the choke horn, your diagram shows it as list number and production date. take your filter spacer ring thingy off and you'll see the numbers. the ones you showed are just on the metering block.
neil.
 
Under repeated braking could lose assist
With the pcv tee d in
Pcv needs to be under the carb so it's even a/f ratio to all the cylinders
They do make pcv carb spacers
 
Yeah the spacer ring is a bit crappy, but the previous owner put it on to clear the hard lines bringing the oil feeds to the remote filter at the front of the block, they don’t really show up in the photos I posted. I’ll leave it for the moment until I can work out a better solution.
I’ll note down the list numbers tomorrow but at the end of the day whatever the model of the carb, the ports are what they are and that’s what I have to work with to get a PCV to work without compromising the brake booster function.
Interesting the idea of the brake servo affecting cylinder 1 and then I’ve read arguments that teeing the PCV and the servo together could affect the servo, I guess if the engines creating a good vacuum either is not going to be too much of an issue. Anyway that’s 2 options to test out
 
-
Back
Top Bottom