Lets talk stall converters

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Dusty 997

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Currently running a 360 Magnum with 904, 8.25 rear with 3.73 suregrip and 255 60 15 tires. With the help of yall i settled on the Oregon 1341: 218/224 @ .050”, 270/276 adv, .482”/.482” lift, 110 sep Cam grind. which ill be running with the hughes valve spring kit, Dougs longtube headers, air gap intake, and a 650 AVS2 carburetor.

Ken at Oregon said This one was right on the top end of not needing a stall converter but im wondering if a stall would make it better.
I'm after seat of the pants power and if paying extra for a stall will give me more then im all for it. Currently it has the stock converter, im assuming it is not a factory "high stall"

So all that being said, what would y'all recommend converter wise? The car isnt a drag car, i drive it on the street, but i drive it pretty aggressively and like to have fun. The local cops dont mind too much as long as you keep it between the ditches either :D
 
I had a cheap converter that I ordered through a jegs catalog for many years. My cam had similar lift as yours and I think it was a 3000 rpm converter. It served me well and I had no issues with it.

Then I decided to give Dynamic converters a call. Gave them every detail about the car imaginable and paid a small fortune for the converter but the difference was noticeable.

You can get away with a less expensive mass produced converter and you will probably be happy but if I was to do it again I would buy once and cry once. Same exact logic with headers btw.
 
Dusty 997 said:
Currently running a 360 Magnum with 904, 8.25 rear with 3.73 suregrip and 255 60 15 tires. With the help of yall i settled on the Oregon 1341: 218/224 @ .050”, 270/276 adv, .482”/.482” lift, 110 sep Cam grind. which ill be running with the hughes valve spring kit, Dougs longtube headers, air gap intake, and a 650 AVS2 carburetor.

Ken at Oregon said This one was right on the top end of not needing a stall converter but im wondering if a stall would make it better.
I'm after seat of the pants power and if paying extra for a stall will give me more then im all for it. Currently it has the stock converter, im assuming it is not a factory "high stall"

So all that being said, what would y'all recommend converter wise? The car isnt a drag car, i drive it on the street, but i drive it pretty aggressively and like to have fun. The local cops dont mind too much as long as you keep it between the ditches either :D
Click to expand...
Lets get one myth flushed right now. ALL converters are stall converters. Every single one. They simply flash to different RPM levels. I agree with Ken. I think you could get by with a stock converter. But take a look at what you've built. Air Gap, long tube headers, 650 AVS2 and that cam is high lift compared to a stocker. You have a high performance engine. I would recommend something in the 2800-3200 range and make it tight so it will idle around town like a stock converter. You want SOME stall above stock. Your engine has a good bit more balls than a stock 340. It needs more converter than one.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Lets get one myth flushed right now. ALL converters are stall converters. Every single one. They simply flash to different RPM levels. I agree with Ken. I think you could get by with a stock converter. But take a look at what you've built. Air Gap, long tube headers, 650 AVS2 and that cam is high lift compared to a stocker. You have a high performance engine. I would recommend something in the 2800-3200 range and make it tight so it will idle around town like a stock converter. You want SOME stall above stock. Your engine has a good bit more balls than a stock 340. It needs more converter than one.
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That is my line of thinking as well. One of those Just because i CAN get away with the stock one doesn't mean I should scenarios.
 

Dusty 997 said:
That is my line of thinking as well. One of those Just because i CAN get away with the stock one doesn't mean I should scenarios.
Click to expand...
I think you will be much happier with something more tailored to your specific car. With today's available converter technology, there's just no reason not to take advantage of it.
 
Next, is there a specific company youd reccomend to have a custom one made? Dont wanna end up with junk
 
Dusty 997 said:
Next, is there a specific company youd reccomend to have a custom one made? Dont wanna end up with junk
Click to expand...
When I worked for a local transmission shop running their front office, we used Precision of New Hampton. When you call them, you need to be completely honest about your combo. Don't be afraid to tell them what you want out of a converter. It's your money.
 
A tight smaller-body converter is better than a loose larger body. I would go no larger than a ten, and ask for a tight one. Should drive like a stocker and still give 3000+ stall.
It will make a world of difference leaving a stoplight under power. (I'll bet your engine makes 100 hp more at 3200 than it does at 1700.)
I would consider PTC as a supplier too.
 
33IMP said:
A tight smaller-body converter is better than a loose larger body. I would go no larger than a ten, and ask for a tight one. Should drive like a stocker and still give 3000+ stall.
It will make a world of difference leaving a stoplight under power. (I'll bet your engine makes 100 hp more at 3200 than it does at 1700.)
I would consider PTC as a supplier too.
Click to expand...
That's what im talkin' about.... Y'all have me convinced. Ill talk to some of the reccomended builders and see what we can come up with in a streetable 3000ish
 
Just make sure whomever you decide on you tell them that you want it tight so that it drives around like a stock converter until you launch with it. Then you want it to flash somewhere around 3000-3200 give or take. In fact, if I had my "druthers" I'd rather it flash a little high than a little low. If it went 3600 it wouldn't bother me at all.
 
Do you have a chassis dyno near you? I actually think a 3000 stall is a bit much for your combo with only 218@050 on the cam. I think a tight 26-2800 would be acceptable and drive excellent.
 
I may have what you need in my barn. It's a Mopar Performance converter like new. I only pulled it because I changed engines and needed a lot more stall. PM me if you are interested and I'll go out and get the info off of it. I see your in Ohio too. I'll make you a hell of deal and you can pick it up because shipping one of those will be a killer on your wallet!
 
Dusty, you've got good gear in the back. That enables a higher stall speed to be used. (Because you'll have enough rpm at highway speed to keep it locked up. You'll need a GOOD tyranny cooler, anyway.)
If you had 3.23s, or worse 2.94s, our recommendations would be MUCH different.
 
Let's not! lol, just kidding. This thread just reminded me of a 2 month period where all I ever talked about was torque converters with everyone I knew on this forum and at the race track!

:lol:
 

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the three companies above are the ones that always get recommended in converter threads. i have personal experience with dynamic and have had awesome results. have friends that have had great results with ultimate.

call any of those three. be 100% honest with yourself and them when giving them the information on your combo and just as important intended use. the converter can and will make or break the combo. if not 100% honest about the combo and intended use you run a good chance of not being happy with it.

the current converter i have behind a pretty stock 360 is a 9.5" unit from dynamic and will flash to around 3500 rpm but drive around on the street like a stock convertor. hell we did a 5000 mile road trip in the car last october and it performed great. i don't even run an aux cooler.. only running the stock cooler that goes through the readiator. when i called and ordered my converter i was very clear that the car was 99.99999% street driven and that i'd like it on the tighter side.

modern good converters are very effecient. gone are the days that 3000 converter was considered the limit for a street car.

a good converter isn't going to be cheap but they work and work very well.. you have already spent hard earned money on a build, don't short change it with a cheap converter. the proper converter will really wake a car up. i see way too many guys over the years spend all kinds of money on the engine and trans only to put a crap converter in the car and leave a ton on the table.
 
Last edited:
for reference here is the combo i'm running. in our 70 dart.

stock rebuilt 74 360 motor.
340 manifolds
performer rpm intake
650 carb.
low gear set 904 trans
dynamic 9.5" converter.
3.23 gears , soon to be 2.76 gears.

cam specs below. installed at 106...

Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 260/268, Lift .430/.450, Chrysler, 273, 318, 340, 360

Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet

Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,200-5,200

Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221

Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 228

Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221 int./228 exh.

Advertised Intake Duration: 260

Advertised Exhaust Duration: 268

Advertised Duration: 260 int./268 exh.

Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.430 in.

Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.450 in.

Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.430 int./0.450 exh.

Lobe Separation (degrees): 110

Mopar Performance Purple Camshaft KitsMopar Performance purple camshaft kits show strong commitment to racing. They are factory-engineered hydraulic and mechanical cams and lifters for Modified-Competition class racing applications. Developed for power and rpm potential, while maintaining reliability and the best low-speed characteristics, including torque; they're also proof that the people who built your Mopar can make it perform even better. All Mopar Performance cams are designed, developed, and dyno and track-tested by Chrysler engineers. These kits include the cam and lifters.
 
abodyjoe said:
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the three companies above are the ones that always get recommended in converter threads. i have personal experience with dynamic and have had awesome results. have friends that have had great results with ultimate.

call any of those three. be 100% honest with yourself and them when giving them the information on your combo and just as important intended use. the converter can and will make or break the combo. if not 100% honest about the combo and intended use you run a good chance of not being happy with it.

the current converter i have behind a pretty stock 360 is a 9.5" unit from dynamic and will flash to around 3500 rpm but drive around on the street like a stock convertor. hell we did a 5000 mile road trip in the car last october and it performed great. i don't even run an aux cooler.. only running the stock cooler that goes through the readiator. when i called and ordered my converter i was very clear that the car was 99.99999% street driven and that i'd like it on the tighter side.

modern good converters are very effecient. gone are the days that 3000 converter was considered the limit for a street car.

a good converter isn't going to be cheap but they work and work very well.. you have already spent hard earned money on a build, don't short change it with a cheap converter. the proper converter will really wake a car up. i see way too many guys over the years spend all kinds of money on the engine and trans only to put a crap converter in the car and leave a ton on the table.
Click to expand...
Yeah cheaping out on the converter is what i deff dont want to do. I want this sucker to **** and git as good as i can while still having street manners cuz while indont run errands in it, when the weather is nice i do drive it almost daily.
 
abodyjoe said:
[/URL]

[/URL]

[/URL]




the three companies above are the ones that always get recommended in converter threads. i have personal experience with dynamic and have had awesome results. have friends that have had great results with ultimate.

call any of those three. be 100% honest with yourself and them when giving them the information on your combo and just as important intended use. the converter can and will make or break the combo. if not 100% honest about the combo and intended use you run a good chance of not being happy with it.

the current converter i have behind a pretty stock 360 is a 9.5" unit from dynamic and will flash to around 3500 rpm but drive around on the street like a stock convertor. hell we did a 5000 mile road trip in the car last october and it performed great. i don't even run an aux cooler.. only running the stock cooler that goes through the readiator. when i called and ordered my converter i was very clear that the car was 99.99999% street driven and that i'd like it on the tighter side.

modern good converters are very effecient. gone are the days that 3000 converter was considered the limit for a street car.

a good converter isn't going to be cheap but they work and work very well.. you have already spent hard earned money on a build, don't short change it with a cheap converter. the proper converter will really wake a car up. i see way too many guys over the years spend all kinds of money on the engine and trans only to put a crap converter in the car and leave a ton on the table.
Click to expand...
Hard to argue with this real world example! 3500 flash rpm and he drove it 5000 miles out to NM and back. 'Nuff said!!
 
Wow, So I'm seeing a lot of info here. I know nothing about converters but now I feel like I have an idea. I will have to call one of those companies.

My setup (in full restoration.)
69 Dart GT, 440 10 1/2 compression. Common Mopar purple camshaft. Schummacher block hugger headers and full dual exhaust. 727 and 8 3/4 Sure Grip with 323s. Mini tubbed. Stock bodied with 6 pt cage and frame connectors. mostly for street driving with maybe an occasional trip down the track.

Anyone have an idea?
 
Dartvader440gt said:
Wow, So I'm seeing a lot of info here. I know nothing about converters but now I feel like I have an idea. I will have to call one of those companies.

My setup (in full restoration.)
69 Dart GT, 440 10 1/2 compression. Common Mopar purple camshaft. Schummacher block hugger headers and full dual exhaust. 727 and 8 3/4 Sure Grip with 323s. Mini tubbed. Stock bodied with 6 pt cage and frame connectors. mostly for street driving with maybe an occasional trip down the track.

Anyone have an idea?
Click to expand...
these forums are a wealth of knowledge. I never would have been able to finish my build without reading all the old threads here back when i knew Zero. Still learning every day.
 
Dusty 997 said:
Yeah cheaping out on the converter is what i deff dont want to do. I want this sucker to **** and git as good as i can while still having street manners cuz while indont run errands in it, when the weather is nice i do drive it almost daily.
Click to expand...
For what it's worth.... a cheap converter was the single WORST purchase I have ever made, in fifty years of hot rodding.
 
Dartvader440gt said:
Wow, So I'm seeing a lot of info here. I know nothing about converters but now I feel like I have an idea. I will have to call one of those companies.

My setup (in full restoration.)
69 Dart GT, 440 10 1/2 compression. Common Mopar purple camshaft. Schummacher block hugger headers and full dual exhaust. 727 and 8 3/4 Sure Grip with 323s. Mini tubbed. Stock bodied with 6 pt cage and frame connectors. mostly for street driving with maybe an occasional trip down the track.

Anyone have an idea?
Click to expand...
The 3.23 gears mean you probably should have less converter than Dusty, maybe 2800, which should be easy behind a 440. I get about that with a hi-stall 340 converter behind a stone stock A12.
I've got a similar engine combo, in a different car, and use a 4500, but I have 3.91s, and a 75%strip car.
 
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