74 Duster, resto mod 6.4 conversion in Australia

[Ozyduster]

I haven’t fit a column in, but I fully expect to have to cut the tube back to the firewall. I have some ideas that I want to try that might mean no tube through the firewall at all, but that is just a foggy idea right now.

The instructions say the factory coupler won’t work, but I did stuff a manual steering shaft and coupler down there to see and didn’t see why it won’t work. Something to be aware of.

Seems like the number I remember is 3” off the column tube. So I would cut 2” off and stuff the whole thing in there and see if the tube clears and if the coupler and extension work and go from there.

Yep, seen a few posts where they cut the tube back to the fire wall, no idea what that does to the integrity of the column. Have seen guys use the power steering cupler (not sure if different to manual) with the extension with the holley kit. However i noticed the Stay tuned guys when doing the comprehensive a body hemi swap had to frig around with the column.
Seen a guy on fb actually shifted the column over in the fire wall, no idea how that works at the business end tho

 

[mygasser]

i used 2 couplers welded together when i swapped to manual steering on my valiant.
neil.

 

[Ozyduster]

i used 2 couplers welded together when i swapped to manual steering on my valiant.
neil.

what engine mounts and pipes did you use

 

[mygasser]

what engine mounts and pipes did you use

i only used a 'normal' small block but that's how i extended the power column to reach the manual box.
neil.

 

[75slant6]

i only used a 'normal' small block but that's how i extended the power column to reach the manual box.
neil.
View attachment 1716463083
View attachment 1716463084

The power and manual cars use the same columns/shafts. The columns have a 2 piece, collapsible shaft inside them and on the power steering cars, they just collapse them farther than on the manual cars. You just need to extend the shaft farther out when swapping to manual steering.

 

[DionR]

The power and manual cars use the same columns/shafts. The columns have a 2 piece, collapsible shaft inside them and on the power steering cars, they just collapse them farther than on the manual cars. You just need to extend the shaft farther out when swapping to manual steering.

Is that completely true? There is a plastic injected in the shaft meant to hold them to length but that shears so the shaft can be collapsed. It could be that you are right and the shafts are the same, and they just set the overall length different before injecting the plastic. But I do know the expectation is that the shafts don't collapse unless something has happened.

Functionally, I would not argue with you. At the same time, I wonder if the manual shaft could end up with too little overlap if it is extended, or the power steering one too much. Unless they all use the same shafts like you are saying.

Also, be aware that the coupler is different between a manual and power steering setup. I think the input shaft is bigger on a PS box.

 

[mosleyme]

Have you fitted steering column? Any issues about to fit mine and seen few guys having clearance issues to the valve cover. I am using the power steering column with the extender on the manual box. Obviously will need to cut the column shift stuff off the column. Think this will be last piece of the puzzle for motor fitment then to see what lines dont fit and/or need relocating. Think once motor fitted may get the pipes made before i run fuel lines and brake lines

Not doing a Hemi swap, but changed my column.

Details: 1968 Barracuda Flaming River Steering Column

Column is 2" (50.8mm) diameter and sticks out about 3" (75mm) from firewall. Not sure how this compares to the stock column. I am off work from 10/10 to the 17th. During that time I will be doing some more precise measurements as part of my project. Let me know if you need more information.

 

[Ozyduster]

Not doing a Hemi swap, but changed my column.

Details: 1968 Barracuda Flaming River Steering Column

Column is 2" (50.8mm) diameter and sticks out about 3" (75mm) from firewall. Not sure how this compares to the stock column. I am off work from 10/10 to the 17th. During that time I will be doing some more precise measurements as part of my project. Let me know if you need more information.

Ill see later this week as will re fit the motor and see if the column fits with adapters supplied etc

 

[Ozyduster]

So Dr Diff makes a B body booster bracket that fits the A body getting the booster up nice and high, apparently thats what a lot of guys are using with the HEMI

 

[DionR]

Sticks in my head that the stock A-Body booster with the factory offset bracket works with a G3. But I don't remember where I saw that used so it's just a maybe.

 

[Ozyduster]

Sticks in my head that the stock A-Body booster with the factory offset bracket works with a G3. But I don't remember where I saw that used so it's just a maybe.

What was the offset bracket from?

 

[DionR]

What was the offset bracket from?

Pretty sure the one I saw was a stock deal. But can’t say for sure.

I know the stock A-Body setup was an offset bracket, I had one on my ‘73 that I removed before I dropped the 5.7 in.

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[Ozyduster]

Pretty sure the one I saw was a stock deal. But can’t say for sure.

I know the stock A-Body setup was an offset bracket, I had one on my ‘73 that I removed before I dropped the 5.7 in.

Pardon Our Interruption...

The dr diff one gets the booster up higher as well to clear the valve cover its a b body one designed for a 426

 

[Ozyduster]

I have fitted the Dr Diff offset front leaf brackets with Calvert mono leafs, the mono leafs are a bit sloppy in the bracket as you can see from the photo. I think they are a little narrower than a standard leaf with a rubber.
Should i add shims or does the slop not matter? I cant tighten the nut any more as the bolt also acts like a spacer

In other news found a metal plater near me to plate all my suspension bolts and nuts that will be re used. Essentially will look like a brand new car. About to send a few items off for powder coating as well.

 

[mopowers]

I have fitted the Dr Diff offset front leaf brackets with Calvert mono leafs, the mono leafs are a bit sloppy in the bracket as you can see from the photo. I think they are a little narrower than a standard leaf with a rubber.
Should i add shims or does the slop not matter? I cant tighten the nut any more as the bolt also acts like a spacer
View attachment 1716465659

In other news found a metal plater near me to plate all my suspension bolts and nuts that will be re used. Essentially will look like a brand new car. About to send a few items off for powder coating as well.

The bracket should tighten on the bushing inner sleeve.

 

[Ozyduster]

So fitted the motor again and forced the pipes in this time to test fit the column and few other items. No issues with my column clearing valave cover as the holley mounts bring the motor forward.
I will adjust the pipes to fit a lot nicer and have more clearance to the valve cover and the shock tower by bringing the pipe up higher etc To get the engine in i had pipe just sitting in position and had to wiggle it in to position its not 100% correct but there will be oither adjustments as well with steering column.

The windscreen wiper motor more than enough clearance! As again some guys have issues with this

 

[Ozyduster]

So the steering column has plenty of clearance and thankfully no cutting required to the tube. However i am using a manual PST steering box and adapter to go from manual box to power steering column but it still feels short. As seen in the pic below again will need to adjust pipe for clearance. I had to knock the steering column collar down the shaft to get the splines to be in correct positions for the lock pins to be inserted.

As you can see i am using the PST adapter but without knocking the collar down its short, however shouldn't the collar be in a fixed position on the original steering column? Or is it adjustable? Any ideas on better solutions or if i ahve done something wrong

 

[DionR]

So the steering column has plenty of clearance and thankfully no cutting required to the tube. However i am using a manual PST steering box and adapter to go from manual box to power steering column but it still feels short. As seen in the pic below again will need to adjust pipe for clearance. I had to knock the steering column collar down the shaft to get the splines to be in correct positions for the lock pins to be inserted.
View attachment 1716466711
As you can see i am using the PST adapter but without knocking the collar down its short, however shouldn't the collar be in a fixed position on the original steering column? Or is it adjustable? Any ideas on better solutions or if i ahve done something wrong
View attachment 1716466712

The column body has a fair amount of adjustment. The bolts under the dash are slotted and the plate on the end that bolts to the firewall slide up and down. Could that make up the difference?

Can you slide the bottom of the column towards the center of the car to make more room for the shaft to pass that header tube?

Any issues with turning the wheel? The coupler is wider one way compared to the other and it might fit fine but crash when you spin it.

 

[DionR]

The windscreen wiper motor more than enough clearance! As again some guys have issues with this
View attachment 1716466706

Another advantage to the Holley motor location. I've seen issues with the 2 speed motor that sticks "straight out" of the firewall, and mine clears by a mile.

 

[Ozyduster]

The column body has a fair amount of adjustment. The bolts under the dash are slotted and the plate on the end that bolts to the firewall slide up and down. Could that make up the difference?

Can you slide the bottom of the column towards the center of the car to make more room for the shaft to pass that header tube?

Any issues with turning the wheel? The coupler is wider one way compared to the other and it might fit fine but crash when you spin it.

Yea the coupler tags the pipe but its like it needs to slide down the shaft closer to the box. Only other thought i had after research is if it has somehow colapsed? However thinking maybe use the flaming river coupler as gets rid of the fat coupler creating more space for the pipes etc
Anyone used one of these?

 

[DionR]

Yea the coupler tags the pipe but its like it needs to slide down the shaft closer to the box. Only other thought i had after research is if it has somehow colapsed? However thinking maybe use the flaming river coupler as gets rid of the fat coupler creating more space for the pipes etc
Anyone used one of these?
View attachment 1716466733

Never used one, but I am leary of anything that doesn't allow for chassis flex. The stock coupler has some in and out allowance that a straight up u-joint doesn't give.

There are sliding sections of shaft available and is the direction I plan to go if I go down the road of deleting the stock coupler.

 

[Ozyduster]

Never used one, but I am leary of anything that doesn't allow for chassis flex. The stock coupler has some in and out allowance that a straight up u-joint doesn't give.

There are sliding sections of shaft available and is the direction I plan to go if I go down the road of deleting the stock coupler.

The main issue i can see with the coupler is that its quite bulky and touches the pipes, a manual steering column would be lot better as coupler obviously much closer to the steering box.
By sliding sections of shaft do you mean you essentially making the shaft longer so no adapters required? Do you have a link to the items?

 

[DionR]

By sliding sections of shaft do you mean you essentially making the shaft longer so no adapters required? Do you have a link to the items?

The stock coupler is built so the steering shaft moves inside the coupler some as the chassis flexes. If you remove that, there is no give and the shaft has to collapse or extend instead and it isn't intended to do that.

Steering shaft upgrade

 

[Ozyduster]

72bluNblu any thoughts on the above as see you have tackled the above before? Any thoughts on best way for me to gain pipe clearance in regards to the the steering shaft. Any reason i cant just purchase a manual shaft and fit to my column? as then the coupler would sit down at the steering box instead of where the pipes merg​

 

[Ozyduster]

The bracket should tighten on the bushing inner sleeve.

Well i am a dud, once i fited my kaltracs she is right and tight lol, thankfully i purchased calvert leafs and kaltracs so all works in unison for fitment!! I really need to get one end of the car finished haha, currently a lot of balls in the air with this thing