TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Also the cast iron manifolds suck. Mostly the driver side with PS. You’re forced to use either a factory 318 or a 340 manifold. 340 is $$$$ and 318 sucks ***. My vote is Doug’s headers.
Would you buy this? He said he'd do $850:
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Wish I could hit the agree button multiple times.Not only no But F no....
Put a good 904 behind it.
If going auto, put a GOOD converter in it. Most important piece of the puzzle to get it to run hard.
i used an edelbrock 17301 pump recently on a project. quiet and not a billion dollars. carter 4594 is a good option as well.Some open questions rattling around in my head:
- Any recommendations for an electric fuel pump set up? I want something quiet and not too pricey.
- Does anyone know why Schumacher adapter plates are $80 better than Trans Dapt adapter plates? (adapting the 360 motor to /6 k frame)
- Any recs for a timing chain set?
- Should I get a Vevor Ultrasonic cleaner?
if you can find them, you can cheap out and use mopar 2.2L/2.5L 4cyl retainers to use a straight spring with the 8mm metric magnum valve stems. when I built that 318 18 years ago, the hughes #1110 springs were the best price for lift and spring pressure needs. I reused head bolts and had no issuesThis is great info, thanks. If I do a Eddy intake, that's a $350 price difference but still cheaper than sourcing V belt pulleys, balancer and brackets, unless by grace of god I find a used set.
And good call on the cam regrind, someone on my original thread also recommended Oregon Cams. I'll have to do a price comparison. Bullet Cams is on the East so shipping may be better. I plan on keeping track of every dollar for this build!
Seems like valve springs will be a must as well.
You will have to decide if that transmission setup is right for you. Personally, if I was keeping a tight budget and had no plans for a rear axle change, I would put a 904 transmission in it so it can retain the same original drive shaft. The description of that transmission kit says it was intended for a 73 charger. If that is true, the driveshaft should be too long for your swap, I think. You would have to verify that.
Ok. Due to the overwhelming input, I think I'll go for the 904.
Hey, so the 904 with a small block will have the output of the trans in the same location as the /6? So the driveshaft length will not need to be altered? That is big savings as well..
if you've done an 833 you can do it.How hard is it to rebuild a 904? I have rebuilt a 440 before and an a-833...
How hard is it to rebuild a 904? I have rebuilt a 440 before and an a-833...
But you go 7200 RPM every time you're behind the wheel. You've said so so many times it gets vomitous. So why can't other people go 5200?What's magic about 300 @ say 5200rpm?
How often are you going there?
What gears are in your Scamp?
My guess is 2.73s. If that's true, yur looking at 5000= 57mph in First; and 96mph in Second. never mind 140 in Direct.
In First gear, there is little to no wind resistance, so all that power more or less goes to tirespin.
You said;
Then leave the engine alone.
For low-speed/ low rpm performance, just install a 2800 convertor, a Sure-Grip, some SlapperBars, maybe some sportier gears, and call it done.
Not only no But F no....
Put a good 904 behind it.
If going auto, put a GOOD converter in it. Most important piece of the puzzle to get it to run hard.
You’re not building a race car. If 300hp is your goal, and you’re keeping the 2.xx gears just put a stock converter in it. Save the money. You’ll be much happier cruising to the ice cream stand. Now, if you jump up in gear, (like 3.23s or 3.55s) and you want a little more stop light to stop light gitty up then a good 2800 or so converter can make a big difference.might be buying a 904 tonight.
What would be a good convertor to use?
Mild 360, mild cam, my rear gears I'm sure are 2.xx
If you plan to reuse it, maybe. But just degree whatever cam you put in it and you’ll be fine. The timing set SHOULD change (as well as the cam) with a rebuild so it’s good practice to degree it.a little light reading on the morning commute to work today ... This is the portion of my subway ride where the train is elevated above the streets, with cars driving underneath. Once I cross the Williamsburg Bridge into Manhattan, the train goes underground.
This book tells you to check the cam centerline before you tear the engine apart completely. I hope I don't really need to do that?
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Are you having it reground?I do plan to reuse it.... but I'll be sure to degree it when I put it in.
Right now, leaning towards yesAre you having it reground?
Did you read my post?But you go 7200 RPM every time you're behind the wheel. You've said so so many times it gets vomitous. So why can't other people go 5200?
What's magic about 300 @ say 5200rpm?
How often are you going there?
What gears are in your Scamp?
My guess is 2.73s.
If that's true,
yur looking at 5000=57mph in First; and 96mph in Second, never mind 140 in Direct.
In First gear, there is little to no wind resistance,
so all that power more or less goes to tirespin.
You said;
(quote missing)
Then leave the engine alone.
For low-speed/low rpm performance, just install a 2800 convertor, a Sure-Grip, some SlapperBars, maybe some sportier gears, and call it done.
Listen old man;But you go 7200 RPM every time you're behind the wheel. You've said so so many times it gets vomitous. So why can't other people go 5200?
Degree it. Always. I’m not concerned with where it was to start. You’re changing all the parts that would make a difference.Right now, leaning towards yes