A 5.9l with headers and 4bbl basically makes 300 hp, but if you want a mild cam don't let AJ's made up scenarios stop you from doing it, AJ don't get power is generally added throughout the powerband.
He misses a lot.
Here's a 5.9l with headers and 4bbl, stock cam VS a mild roller comp cam shown on the screen as you can the engine gains from 3,000 rpms+ and no signs of any real loss under 3,000 rpm, so if you want a cam go for it will give you gains you will notice no matter your gearing and stall.
View attachment 1716477327
Exactly. Good graph.
Here's LA low cr 360, with a bunch of mods VS stock 2bbl, headers, mild ported heads, xe250h and xe268h cams 4bbl etc.. Still makes better power everywhere over stock.
View attachment 1716477334
A winner every time.
Would you buy this? He said he'd do $850:
View attachment 1716477454
No. I myself would do the 904 OD Hyd version and cut the driveshaft down and use 3.55 gears.
Did you read my post?
Did you understand it?
Lemmee help you.
Listen; I'm trying to be nice here;
Thus OP, as a laid back streeter, on any particular day, is almost never gunna hit the PowerPeak more than once and only on the way to getting up to hiway speed....... and when he does, the Torqueflite will drag the rpm down to 59%, and it's game-over.
Therefore,
my thought is;
Why sacrifice power where you need it/want it, say from take-off to 35mph,
to get that top-end power, where you hardly ever go?
*********************
As for
Listen old man;
if reading my posts makes you sick, then why do you read them? Do you like being "vomitous"? I m ean, the solution is simple, put me on ignore.
Listen; some of the time you can't get sense of my posts anyway, and other times, you get yourself so riled up that your opinionated and never-appreciated potty-mouth comes out. I would have thought that an old-timer like you, with all your history, and being a so-called Christian on top of that, could do better.
Listen brother; I forgive you for so-often berating me. I turn the other cheek, cuz I don't want you to burn in hell on my account.
Listen, tough guy; I can't do anything about your belly-sickness, that's on you to get rid of; do I need to remind you what works for me?
You wouldn’t get so much slack if you actually knew what you’re talking about and should actually do some more hot rodding and experimenting rather than relying on calculators and assumptions and here say.
You make consistent assumptions about people and the way they drive is like how you drive consistently “Blowing the tires off” and etc… if your repetitive ramblings of bullshit that doesn’t apply.
I consistently call you out on it and now I’m glad everyone else is calling you out because I was becoming weary of pointing out how outright wrong you were and explaining the whys of the corrections.
I don’t do it to be mean, just correcting misinformation from being spread.
You can call me mean and what ever else you want but it’s actually not true since I sit here feeling like a teacher correcting students with just a sigh. Asking myself why.
How can this be?
Claimed 55 years of doing stuff and knows nothing.
Caught in consistent lies of mega mileage only to later bulge pertinent information not included in the original answer while you subtly insult and make fun of people.
Now if you wanna call me mean and say I’m off my meds, go for it but at least I’m telling the truth and trying to help people, with honesty and facts with experience.
I’ll also tell you *I Think* & I’m not sure or don’t know.
You do note every time almost when you feel I’m being mean but never note when I agree or support your answers as good.
Why people keep correcting you, as you can plainly see in the 2 dyno graphs provided plus the 1,000's of others out there, a mild cam made power practically throughout the whole powerband not just above 5,0000 rpms which the OP might find useful the extra under 5,000 rpms power and the odd time above 5,000 rpms if he chooses to go that way. Everyone is allowed an opinion but spreading faulty facts isn't opinion it's being manipulative.
BINGO
I emailed Oregon Cams today.
Here is what he said. Any advice? I don't speak cam-ese.
#1429
210/214 @ .050”, 260/264 adv, .506”/.506” lift, 111 sep
#2204
213/220 @ .050”, 265/275 adv, .480”/.498” lift, 110 sep
#1341
218/224 @ .050”, 270/276 adv, .482”/.482” lift, 110 sep
#1634
218/224 @ .050”, 270/276 adv, .528”/.536” lift, 110 sep
#1990
224/230 @ .050”, 276/282 adv, .510”/.510” lift, 112 sep
These are some of the most popular grinds in the area you are looking for, I can move the lobe sep around if you want something different. We can regrind your core for $239, it will take about two to three weeks.
If you send us your core please make sure to include you contact info in the box with the cam.
The 218@050 is as large as I would go.
I myself would go as low as the 213@050.
I have a 226@050 in the wife’s car and it will be a big benefit to increase the stall 2500 rpm plus, the stock converter is not that high and will tolerate a 218 at MAX.
The 218 will make very good power to 5500 no problem.
If these lifts are based off of a 1.5 rocker, you need to do the math on the new lift and equip the valve springs as necessary.
Listed lift divided by 1.5 then multiply by 1.6 for the new lift value.
Use a solid lifter (purchase 2, intake and exhaust) and clay to check the clearance of the valve to piston.