Epoxy shut in one case, set screws in another. You will get a far stronger signal for the boosters and will pull fuel out of them instantaneously.
You do have to re-jet, can't say this enough.
This again.... 4bbl on a 318 with a 2bbl
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You do have to re-jet, can't say this enough.
understood. Thank you!
Sounds like it works. Wonder why the factory just doesn't fix/build it right. Shouldn't have to epoxy a new carb for sure
May not be an issue with all drive trains and overlooked. Larger engine may have stronger vacuum signal, various camshafts create their own issues, etc.
Holley "fixes this" by going the other direction- fuel-fuel-fuel which I don't agree with.
Had an AVS2 on a 318 and it bogged. Put the same carb on a stock build 360 and it ran perfect.
Believe the 650 cfm AVS2 just needed a little more displacement to pull the fuel properly.
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Believe the 650 cfm AVS2 just needed a little more displacement to pull the fuel properly.
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I'd not be the least bit surprised if Edelbrock "tuned" the carbs for a typical 350 CID engine and called it good. Not like they can run every combo.
Also the problem isn't going to show itself in a dyno cell so again another chance to miss the issue.
It all comes down to tuning the carb for the engine/car combo. The AVS2 650 is certainly not too big for the 318 since the factory put thermoquads on those smogged up engines in the 70's.
I put one on a stock 360 magnum (RPM air gap) and it bogged. These things bogging is all over the internet by ford, chevy, and mopar guys
There is no such thing as a "one size fits all" carburetor.
yeah, been dealing with carbs for over 40 years. I have 5 cars now that are carbureted. Never seen one come with a tube of epoxy. I'm just saying there is a flaw, as you pointed out, and it's ok to call them out. I like edelbrock, but something has slipped in recent years. It's called quality. And if a new 650 cfm from any carb manufacturer needs disassembled and epoxy to work on a 360 cubic inch then i'll say there is a flaw/quality issue.
4eighteener
Well-Known Member
It's a business plan called, enshittification
There are whole books devoted to modifying Holleys, this is not an issue confined to one brand.
Do you think if somebody has a 360 and they buy a new 650 they should have to take it apart and epoxy/drill so it works? if you accept that, then you can but I don't. This is why problems don't get resolved, because people put it on the car owner. There is reasonable tuning for each carb to the car, like jetting, pump shot, mixture screws. But if I need epoxy and a drill, then there is a manufacturing flaw. Period.
Then Holley is guilty as well, modifying air bleeds on them is not uncommon.
I'm just telling people how to fix the problem, you can take the advice or just continue ranting.
ALL manufactures. I get it, your a eddy fan. I've never needed epoxy and a drill on ANY of my Holleys. I put 650/750 double pumpers on 318's and 360's and tuned flawlessly. I"ve also had great working eddy's. I just don't accept rats in my soup, and I don't care if it is my favorite cafe. There is a problem with some AVS II's, and you've admitted it. Only difference is, I want eddy to fix it, you want them to supply epoxy and drills
@gdonovan is addressing the primary circuit main well sensitivity. I am wondering if the bog is actually created by the transition circuit cutting out too soon.
https://boyzunderthehood.com/wp-con...ETORS-ADVANCED-CARBURETOR-TUNING-IFR-BIAB.pdf
Either way, the Edelbrock carburetor's primary circuit calibration definitely lacks precision.
yes, just probably a simple mod at the factory could cure it. The AVS II's used to be offered by summit as "remans" as so many were returned. I think the idea is a great street carb. I think it just needs to be re-defined. I like the AVS/AFB style carbs, ran a lot of them with great success. Again, they perform great once going, and perform great just cruising, but they hate a dead idle smash of the gas.
I have one on a W100 with a 360 that I'm trying to "fix"...
It definitely has a lean spot coming off of the transfer slot.
On my 318 Duster, I put the edelbrock large squirter and that helped some too. I didn't bend the rod, but that's probably a good idea.
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
It helps to use the insulator spacer. Ive literally lifted the top off an Efelbrock carb and saw tje gas boiling in the fuel bowls on a hot engine
RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
I agree. The secondary air door on the AVS can be pretty much shut down making the carburetor a two barrel. They're even tuneable on a 273, of course with appropriate metering rod and jet changes. They're usually pretty close there as it is.
RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
I agree 100%. There's too much that's put off on the end user. It's a bunch of boosheet.
RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
The newer Holleys and most all the Quick Fuel Holley styles are incredibly tuneable out of the box, with replaceable air bleeds and fuel restrictors and power valve restrictors. They've finally done what should have been done all along. They are pretty nice now. As long as you make one mod at a time, It's hard to get lost.
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