Wake up a 1968 318...

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cudamark said:
As AK TA mentioned, it might have a crumbling cam gear. I don't remember if the A100 used them or not. Some of the original truck engines around that year I've pulled apart had steel ones. I'd check the chain slop just by rocking the crank pulley back and forth to see how much play there is. I assume this engine is still in the van and is going to stay there? It might be a pain to do, but, you can pull the fuel pump and look inside to check if it has the plastic cam gear or steel one. If steel and the slop isn't bad, I'd leave it alone. If it's the plastic coated gear, I'd pull the front end off the engine and put in a good double roller setup, a new water pump, and reseal everything. If some of the plastic teeth are missing off the cam gear, I'd pull the pan to remove them. They can get clogged in the sump screen and restrict oil flow to the pump. Check the timing cover real good for corrosion too. If you plan on changing the cam, that would also be the time to do it. Just stay mild on the came unless you plan on a full rebuild. Doesn't sound like this is going to be high revving engine, so, I think I'd leave the stock exhaust manifolds on it and just do the duals.
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Thanks for the advice. That sounds like a good plan right there, and this is definitely not gonna be a higher reving or big horsepower vehicle. Just want something that's reliable and got a little bit of umph.
 
I think you got what you need. Cudamarks advice is pretty good, I like it. A new timing chain can’t hurt and there cheap anyways.... He also made a good mention of looking at all the aluminum on the engine since if the water/iron particles gets to it rather than a good coolant balance, which will still corrode the aluminum but take a lot longer.
 
[QUOTE="cudamark, post: I'd check the chain slop just by rocking the crank pulley back and forth to see how much play there is. [/QUOTE]

But remove the distributor cap first so you can watch the rotor.

If the crank turns without immediate rotor movement, the timing chain is worn.

Rotate the crank until the rotor moves, then rotate the crank in the opposite direction. If there is a lack of movement in the rotor, bad timing chain.
 
Alaskan_TA said:
But remove the distributor cap first so you can watch the rotor.

If the crank turns without immediate rotor movement, the timing chain is worn.

Rotate the crank until the rotor moves, then rotate the crank in the opposite direction. If there is a lack of movement in the rotor, bad timing chain.
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Sounds good.

Unfortunately I now have some more issues to deal with because I started leaking coolant from the back of the motor. I am pretty sure that their is a bad freeze plug or plugs back there, but it's behind the transmission so I am not sure. The rest of the freeze plugs on the motor are all shiny new, so I am hoping that that is all that it is.
 
fakirone said:
Sounds good.

Unfortunately I now have some more issues to deal with because I started leaking coolant from the back of the motor. I am pretty sure that their is a bad freeze plug or plugs back there, but it's behind the transmission so I am not sure. The rest of the freeze plugs on the motor are all shiny new, so I am hoping that that is all that it is.
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There are freeze plugs on the back of the heads, too. I'd look there first.
 
65 Cuda 340 said:
There are freeze plugs on the back of the heads, too. I'd look there first.
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I'm pulling the doghouse off anyways to insulate it so I will look, but it's really from behind the bell housing and I am pretty certain that it's from there. Hopefully I am wrong.
 
Well, I don't know how easy it is to get to the freeze plugs on your heads. I once had a Duster 340 that started leaking from a freeze plug at the back of the passenger side head. Looked at it a while, then decided it was gonna be easier to pull the motor than to pull just the head on that side. Got the motor out and back in all in one day. LOL, probably would take me a couple of weeks these days.
 
fakirone said:
I have a 1968 318 with (what the PO says is a) dang 1 barrel carb that has no choke and I want to wake it up. It's in a van and I am not really looking for any major performance upgrades, but I feel like the motor has a lot more potential without doing all too much to it.

Does anyone here have experience with this? Again, mostly looking for reliability and mileage rather than ton of power. SOME more power obviously, but nothing crazy by any means.

Would something like this work?

Edelbrock 2176PK: Performer Power Package Intake Manifold, Carburetor and Camshaft Kit SB-Chrysler 318-360ci | JEGS
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RustyRatRod's Guide To Hot Rod Bliss
 
If you have leaking freeze plugs in the rear of the block, you either have to pull the engine or the transmission. The transmission is usually easier, but, if there are other steel freeze plugs in the engine, sometimes it's easier to pull the engine and replace all the plugs with brass ones. Pulling an engine in an A100/108 isn't all that easy though, so, if you can get to all the freeze plugs, I'd probably just leave the engine in the chassis and replace them best as I can. When you get a lower freeze plug knocked out, flush the block real good to get the rust and gunk out. I usually run a coat hanger inside the block to break up the sludge in the bottom of the block.
 
cudamark said:
Pulling an engine in an A100/108 isn't all that easy though, so, if you can get to all the freeze plugs, I'd probably just leave the engine in the chassis and replace them best as I can. When you get a lower freeze plug knocked out, flush the block real good to get the rust and gunk out. I usually run a coat hanger inside the block to break up the sludge in the bottom of the block.
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I would second that pulling an engine on an a108 isn't easy! I just did it last weekend and it took a lot more time than I was expecting
But this thread is great- I'm trying to figure out what to do with my 318 ci engine that has about 88,000 miles. Was not running when I bought it but supposedly was 13 years ago when parked.
 
Thank you to all for the advice, wound up doing a full rebuild on the 318. Here's what we put in there.

Summit 600cfm electronic choke that I had NIB laying around.
Edelbrock Performer manifold
Indy 318 heads with beehive springs from them, hardened seats etc. (wanted LAX, but they don't have them anymore)
Comp Cams CL20--210-2 Cam
Comp Cams Magnum double roller timing set
Melling oil pump
Summit Block Hugger headers
eBay bs HEI distributor
Tuff Stuff 130amp alt

Turns over with 40psi, is tight as a dang drum, and makes me REALLY happy. Getting exhaust as we speak and then time to tune.

Also did a Scarebird front disc conversion and converted the master cylinder to a Dakota unit.

F94CB540-3913-4ED9-8F0D-28471284CA46.jpeg


D0E0B16C-3F55-457E-AA06-9906AAA97AD2.jpeg


10CE07AD-2F68-4FA3-871E-666706F485F3.jpeg
 
mygasser said:
sounds sweet, did you bed the cam in properly before letting it idle?
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Oh for sure. My friend is a VERY solid Mopar mechanic and went through all of that. We've already broke in the cam (wound up using the old tired springs) and torn the manifold back off to look at everything and make sure it broke in properly. It did :)
 
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Sweeeeeet! And the hell yea with the horns, oh yes! VICTORY!!!!!
 
fakirone said:
I am not really looking for any major performance upgrades,
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fakirone said:
Does anyone here have experience with this? Again, mostly looking for reliability and mileage rather than ton of power.
SOME more power obviously, but nothing crazy by any means.
Click to expand...

Well I guess, things have changed a mite.
But
Biggest bang for the buck is still gonna be a higher-stall Convertor. I suggest a minimum of 2800.
 
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fakirone said:
I have a 1968 318 with (what the PO says is a) dang 1 barrel carb that has no choke and I want to wake it up. It's in a van and I am not really looking for any major performance upgrades, but I feel like the motor has a lot more potential without doing all too much to it.

Does anyone here have experience with this? Again, mostly looking for reliability and mileage rather than ton of power. SOME more power obviously, but nothing crazy by any means.

Would something like this work?

Edelbrock 2176PK: Performer Power Package Intake Manifold, Carburetor and Camshaft Kit SB-Chrysler 318-360ci | JEGS
Click to expand...

I had similar situation [ Powerwagon 886 ] ambulance pretty heavy and I installed a Isky
RV/TOWING camshaft and Old school Offy intake with Edelbrock 600 carb it really gave truck nice low end power from idle up to about 3800 rpm well worth the effort.
 
cudamark said:
As AK TA mentioned, it might have a crumbling cam gear. I don't remember if the A100 used them or not. Some of the original truck engines around that year I've pulled apart had steel ones. I'd check the chain slop just by rocking the crank pulley back and forth to see how much play there is. I assume this engine is still in the van and is going to stay there? It might be a pain to do, but, you can pull the fuel pump and look inside to check if it has the plastic cam gear or steel one. If steel and the slop isn't bad, I'd leave it alone. If it's the plastic coated gear, I'd pull the front end off the engine and put in a good double roller setup, a new water pump, and reseal everything. If some of the plastic teeth are missing off the cam gear, I'd pull the pan to remove them. They can get clogged in the sump screen and restrict oil flow to the pump. Check the timing cover real good for corrosion too. If you plan on changing the cam, that would also be the time to do it. Just stay mild on the came unless you plan on a full rebuild. Doesn't sound like this is going to be high revving engine, so, I think I'd leave the stock exhaust manifolds on it and just do the duals.
Click to expand...
I was shocked to see my 77 Powerwagon 886 ambulance had the junk nylon timing set on it but that junks in the garbage now and steel double roller installed
 
Has anybody else not ever seen a ONE BARREL on a 318? I have not.
 
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