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any 4x4 shop can make you a slip joint drive shaft as many 4X4's run these. MP used to make a conversion kit for the flanged tailshafts.

I just used fender washers. Worked, but 'wedge washers' would work even better.

Pre 68 Trans will have a small snout to match the early crank, then it got big in 68 so they don't cross over unless you put an early trans on a later crank with a bushing. Try and get a matching pair. The 66 was a one year fender and grill as you know. Going to a 63-65 clip is bolt on , even...

disregard, Dart is different per this photo or this one? Maybe a cheater that's already embossed like the headliner but you dont take the headliner down this panel?

I have a clockable one, I think its off a Chevy but it seems to bolt up.

Laysons are as close to new as youll find but the silver ring is radially machine finished on the originals, ie there is an aligned grain to it, like a satin Centerline finish. Could possibly get that finish if you took a 600 grit and wiped the ring in a circular motion? Hard to take anything to...

pop em off, pop em on. The real trick is getting to the nuts if they are behind that plastic trim piece. The mounting screw is under the windshield gasket. I didnt even know these gasket were available.

Id buy it for $1500, let me know where to send the Paypal....

Was that the famous Formula S Valiant or this Targa type top Barracuda? Barris did a deusy on the Fireball 500 66 Barracuda. Anything is possible after it left the line. Concept car? (Not for public sale)

Ditch the glass....it would be an aero roll bar spoiler. OLDS did one

Smells like cheese from here. Show us the SO on the rad support. And with the doors open, I wonder if you could still jack up the front tire without flexing the floor.

look on rad support driver side facing up. It should have same SO number on it. Mine is like 0001 of (eg. 040100001) April 1 right on rad suppoer and on fender tag, I was told it was either the first car off the line of April 1 (suspected) or it was the first ordered somewhere and the production...

if you pull the California vapor recovery collar back to bypass the seal interlock, you can pump the fuel in a regular fashion, just listen for the fuel to start backing up in the filler pipe. It will have more of a chance to back up in the fill pipe this way but it works on an empty tank.

yeah, inverted filler and listen for the fuel to get higher pitched going in. I bought my 65 with the vertical racing stripe too. My 57 Ford was worse, filler behind the pate and it was pretty low to begin with. That laid a trail of fuel if you put too much in.

I wrote a how to on this. Tank came out with a little trick.

Awesome, will check both out. I linked my Formula S badges here too from tinkercad.

A few are just left overs from making a gasket symmetrical so there is no L and R pattern needed. The blocked large front coolant ports actually block the flow of coolant to head and force the coolant back through the block then up into head and forward to Stat area and out to rad. Small holes...

17-18 is good. You want to set the idle at 700 (eg) then turn the mixture screw until you get the best idel and highest vacuum then reset the idle set screw to 700 and do the mix screws again. Keep doing this until there is no change.

I'm with Dan, the rubber covered wire ones I got in an old MP gasket kit from PAW. No wear gasket can be reused again and again.

Those 273s are not that bad flowing. Just getting them sealed is the issue. Should make a snappy runner.

You'd have to get them mic'd and sell them as turntable as they are not that easy to find serviceable or new l. The come up for sale new from CHINA time to time but they seem to be limited runs.

67 and lower will drop right in. 68 had the larger crank receiver and you'll break the flex plate in time if you don't use the 1/8" wall centering bushing. You can always use the old small receiver crank in the newer block unless it's a late cast crank block.

Those drums are worth pawning off even if they need turning if they are 10's.

I agree. The front window just pops out from the corner. Pull the lock strip and the window will push out and peel away. It can be done without issue. Rear is not that much harder. Pull lock strip and get on your back and use your knees to push window out at the top edge. Have a helper manage...

Send us your tinkercad name so we can see your work! It's not as easy as it looks when you can create a 3D part out of nothing.

That tag is missing an obvious features like X- .....seat belts!

1-2 is a left remote outside mirror 3-9 is variable speed wiper with washer AB-31 IS 273 4BBL C-2 is Formula S D-5 is automatic E-5 is heater with defroster Q-1 is AM economy radio T-8 tach V-3 back up lights Z-2 front buckets with console TRM - P4X is high level bucket, vinyl, black WW is...

Hey, I remember seeing that piece when I pulled my shifter out! Thats a good application. Should post it up on tinkercad to share the file. Nice

you can put shallow 5's in the door under the crank down low. Looks OK when there is a painted grill on them but you may not want to cut those nice door cards. Back is a standard package tray install. On a Barracuda, they can mount right to the divider, forward firing but then it wont go down flat.

The thermal vinyl stuff is nice, it lays down smooth and can be heated to stretch and conform to dips and corners but its like paint: so thin that any underlying faults (cracks, voids, pits) will be visible as ripples so you need to do your work on grinding and filling all the age lines. also...