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I have a new Accel one for sale. Billet housing,high quality Accel cap and rotor,plugs right into the MP harness. Part # 59301 if you want to any research on it. $125 plus shipping.

I have a set. Approximately 300 miles on a new set,they came off of a crate motor. Asking for $300 plus shipping.

Still looking for one ? I have one for sale.Less than 1,000 miles on it,new cap and rotor with MSD wires. $225 plus shipping.

One of my customers has a set of chrome ones that he may want to sell,if you are interested I will talk with him about it.

Still looking ? My customer has one that I just took off,excellent condition ,with a timing tape. Make an offer and I will speak with him about it. We removed it to install an SFI one with the new combo.

Still need one ? I know someone that may have some.

I have a Holley Strip Dominator ,which I believe is the predecessor to the M1,that I will sell.I bought it a couple months ago from Mikelbeck for 145,make an offer if you are interested.

Still need one ? I think I have one if you still need it.

You need to shorten the advance curve in the distributor.The y have about a 28 degree curve in them from the factory,that coupled with your 12-14 initial puts you over 40 total and well into detonation territory. Were the block and heads decked alot ? Does it have adjustable rockers or pushrods...

Are you still looking for an engine ?

Just a warning,you have to put a small hole in the cup plug that covers the spring in order to get it out. Once you do that the plug is no longer usable,it has to remain sealed or the pump will not build pressure.

Not necessarily,everyones interpretation of good is different.If one guy thinks that the housing bores are good on the tight side and another one thinks that the crank is good on the fat side,throw in a bearing that may be on the fat side and you end up with almost no clearance.

The aftermarket cranks,both cast and forged,are mostly designed to be internally balnaced.The targeted bob weight for the 4" cranks seems to be around 1850 grams,that seems to be the average for cast and forged and also different brands.Therefore ,using a standard 6.123 rod and any of the forged...

What brand are the lifters ? There have been alot of problems with the Comp lifters. Apparently they do not do a good job of de-magnetizing the bodies after maching them and it causes the valve inside to stick to the bottom and not allow enough oil to get inside.The cure for this is to remove...

PM sent.

It seems like you are trying to put an LA pan on a Magnum block,that is like the child that tries to put the square peg in the round hole.

What makes you think it is from the intake gasket ? How much timing did you have in it ?

Do you see anything that would have caused the leak ?

Yes,you can use your old cam with new lifters ,you have to go through the break-in period again just as if it were a new cam.

It is the open pressure that causes the problems ,not the seat pressure.Keep the open pressure to no more than 280 and use a quality break-in oil.Joe Gibbs and Brad Penn are 2 that I know of that are excellent.Be sure to use a good oil even after the break-in.

Let me know. I will PM you with my phone # and you can just call me if you want to set something up.

I can do it while he waits.Just so you know what is involved,the valves need to be removed and the heads need to be cleaned.Cost will be $150 and will take approximately 2 hours.

You need to find a shop that is equipped to do it.All water passages need to be sealed and you put air pressure in the water jackets,use a soap and water mixture in a spray bottle to look for leaks.I have seen heads crack inside the exhaust crossover and leak back through the exhaust port and...

Roller set-ups are a pain in those ,ask Kory.You would be suprised at the power and torque you can get from a good solid flat tappet.As long as you use the proper oil there should not be a problem loosing a cam.It would also be money well spent to go for a good piston.You know where I am if...

If you do not find anything obvious,I would suggest having the heads pressure tested.Could be a crack in a spot that you can't see by magnafluxing.

The finish sizes on the SCAT stuff is much better and they use a bigger bolt which is what contributes to the higher power rating.

Here's an idea,rather then throw all of these different parts at it and continue to waste money going to the track where the weather conditions are different each time,why don't you do what you should have done before you installed the engine,DYNO THE ENGINE. You will WASTE more time and money...

I didn't think that price was high.You can buy the tools and try to do it yourself,but it is more than just measuring things,most times the pinion depth measurement the give you does not produce the correct pattern.The pattern is what dictates if it is correct not their number.Most people forget...

You're going to be sorry. .030 quench is too tight. If you just had it rebuilt and they honed the block you just added more piston to wall clearance and now the piston will rock over more and probably hit the head.

It takes longer than an hour to do it properly and you need more than an impact and a dial indicator.You cannot set pinion bearing preload with an impact.