daredevil
Well-Known Member
x2 if theyve been hand ported
Same problem as always. Coolant in the oil.
- Thread starter MB43
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cuda65vpt
cuda65vpt
I do surveying math for a living and it made mine hurt too. It is just a simple right angle calculation though.
You need to find a shop that is equipped to do it.All water passages need to be sealed and you put air pressure in the water jackets,use a soap and water mixture in a spray bottle to look for leaks.I have seen heads crack inside the exhaust crossover and leak back through the exhaust port and fill the cylinder with water.I have also experienced head gaskekt problems with the small blocks.The Cometic gasket and a good quality bolt seem to be the only thing that withstands alot of cylinder pressure,there is just not enough clamping force with that amount bolts.How far out on the Island are you ?If you can't find anyone out there let me know,I am just under 1 hour from the Throggs Neck Br. if you feel like taking a ride.
daredevil
Well-Known Member
yeah it needs to be done in a machine shop as the heads are sealed on the combustion chamber sideand have to be off the car. Leak down test on cylinders with valves closed may show something but if runner to cooling passage is cracked a bench pressure test is the only way to go.
He's out by me Monte, Center of the Island proper. On a non-traffic day, the Throggs would be about 45 min.'s. Can you do this yourself Monte or you have a buddy at a shop that can do it (on the spot?)?
I'd like to video tape that while it's going on.
I'd like to video tape that while it's going on.
AdamR
Big Member
Monte is real close to me Mikel so if you want I can bring you up his way. I know were his house is, Not sure about his shop.
I sure will, thanks.
Going back to pressure testing the cooling system... if there's an active leak, say from the intake manifold, I won't be able to get any sort of pressure into the cooling system, right? So in that case I wouldn't be able to use this method to check for cracked heads?
BJR Racing
Well-Known Member
Correct as the heads will leak slowly.
AdamR
Big Member
Mikel, Let me know when and we can all get together for lunch.
You buying? ;-)
AdamR
Big Member
I'll send the bill to Joey.
You can use your FABO corporate card!
I'll take a ride. Just say when so I can set myself up for it. Who's driving?
The wifes Taurus seats 4 well and will get 26 - 27 Hwy.
The wifes Taurus seats 4 well and will get 26 - 27 Hwy.
I'll let ya know, not gonna be for a week or two at the earliest.
Thats good since I plan on working my back end off for the next week or two.
AdamR
Big Member
Yes, After all we are all employees of Joeys which makes this a business meeting if we talk about cars women or beer !
63dartman
Well-Known Member
Mike ,I'm no expert but, the fact that it seems to not leak into the oil until it's up to temp makes me think your heads may have a crack in them letting water into the exhaust and oil once the thermostat is open and starts pushing the water through them. I only think that because in a previous post you said there was water coming out the exhaust. If it was a cracked block wouldn't the oil be contained to just the pan?
Good idea there, but there's no thermostat. I usually start the water pump (electric) as soon as I start the motor.
Sunday when I got home I opened up the oil pan drain plug and put a bucket under the car. When I first opened it some more milky oil came out (not very much) and I let it drip to make sure it was empty. I checked it last night and there was very little more in there. So the oil pan is empty.
How fast does it drain down? Is it where you can look in the rad cap opening and see the level drop, or is it a slow weep?
None of your plugs look odd, so it sounds like it's not going through the combustion chamber.
If it's draining FAST, it's not likely a cracked head unless you can visibly see the crack. If the settled level in the radiator is below the heads, it's not the heads.
I don't know which head gasket you are using. We had a head gasket that the embossed area for a water hole was made too large and allowed water to enter the valley. It wasn't a fast leak, more like a weep, but it was still there. Manufacture sent a new gasket that was right the second time.
Everyone has there approach. Mine is to inspect everything that sounds reasonable before spending money on things that may/may not be the root problem. It sounds like you have a mighty large hole in your cooling system, timing cover, intake surface/gasket crush, head gasket.
None of your plugs look odd, so it sounds like it's not going through the combustion chamber.
If it's draining FAST, it's not likely a cracked head unless you can visibly see the crack. If the settled level in the radiator is below the heads, it's not the heads.
I don't know which head gasket you are using. We had a head gasket that the embossed area for a water hole was made too large and allowed water to enter the valley. It wasn't a fast leak, more like a weep, but it was still there. Manufacture sent a new gasket that was right the second time.
Everyone has there approach. Mine is to inspect everything that sounds reasonable before spending money on things that may/may not be the root problem. It sounds like you have a mighty large hole in your cooling system, timing cover, intake surface/gasket crush, head gasket.
On Friday when I first found the leak, I would open the rad cap, fill it up and you could watch it go down. It'd drop about an inch within a few minutes. After about 10 minutes it would stop draining and level off. I just went and checked it, the level in the radiator is even with the exhaust on the heads.
I'm using the thin Mopar gaskets.
Sounds reasonable. ;-)
I take it you are tearing it down.
Here's an idea.
Remove intake. Turn upper rad hose straight up.
Grab some thin steel/aluminum plate, use intake gasket as template, cut out four pieces large enough to cover the end water opening of the heads, drill holes that use the intake bolts, install plates with some silicone, seal it up, let set and fill the radiator. If it drains down, it isn't your intake sealing.
This will also give you an opportunity to see if the water is leaking down the valley from the head gasket. May also allow you to see where the water if it's coming from the front.
Here's an idea.
Remove intake. Turn upper rad hose straight up.
Grab some thin steel/aluminum plate, use intake gasket as template, cut out four pieces large enough to cover the end water opening of the heads, drill holes that use the intake bolts, install plates with some silicone, seal it up, let set and fill the radiator. If it drains down, it isn't your intake sealing.
This will also give you an opportunity to see if the water is leaking down the valley from the head gasket. May also allow you to see where the water if it's coming from the front.
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