Cam is very close to original 340 specs....tad higher. Can't find the dang spec sheet.
Have done so many different things in the past couple of days, can't remember if the idle was set w/ the hose plugged or not. Will check that also. :salut:
Demon NO Go
- Thread starter 6pk2goDemon
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Cam is very close to original 340 specs....tad higher. Can't find the dang spec sheet.
Have done so many different things in the past couple of days, can't remember if the idle was set w/ the hose plugged or not. Will check that also. :salut:
demon seed
The Original Demon Seed
Been quite frustrating working in a t-shirt at 75 degrees dear.....:tongue9:
Thanks T.....C here
Hey Cheryl,
I have been following your trials and tribulations and keeping my mouth shut. Glad you got it going to where you can tune a little easier. If you are afraid of using propane, use Right Guard deoderant spray. The brown can is the best. It's pretty much the same as propane, but easier to control.
As moper said, disconnect and plug your dizzy vacuum hose before you set your timing. I would also disconnect and plug any other vacuum hose's, then connect them one at a time to ensure they are all good.
There is nothing wrong with manual brakes. I have them and I can lock all four corners up very easily if I have to. Front disk and rear drums.
Jack
I have been following your trials and tribulations and keeping my mouth shut. Glad you got it going to where you can tune a little easier. If you are afraid of using propane, use Right Guard deoderant spray. The brown can is the best. It's pretty much the same as propane, but easier to control.
As moper said, disconnect and plug your dizzy vacuum hose before you set your timing. I would also disconnect and plug any other vacuum hose's, then connect them one at a time to ensure they are all good.
There is nothing wrong with manual brakes. I have them and I can lock all four corners up very easily if I have to. Front disk and rear drums.
Jack
You need to shorten the advance curve in the distributor.The y have about a 28 degree curve in them from the factory,that coupled with your 12-14 initial puts you over 40 total and well into detonation territory. Were the block and heads decked alot ? Does it have adjustable rockers or pushrods ? Did anyone verify lifter preload and make sure it is not too much and holding a valve open ? Depending on how big the new cam is 8.5 for compression may not be enough,it may require more initial timing.
Here are the cam specs:
444 - 467 Lift
214 - 224 @ .050
288 - 298 Duration
444 - 467 Lift
214 - 224 @ .050
288 - 298 Duration
Thx Jack....trials and tribulations sums it up pretty well.....Hopefully, the payoff will make all of this stuff a blur.
Distributor was plugged when the timing was set, but don't remember if it was plugged or not when setting the idle. Will check that again. I don't think there are any other vacuum lines to plug. :scratch:
The manual brakes should not be a problem as you stated. Switched from the KH dual piston setup years ago to single piston E-Body style. A little less leg effort required to stop and should be fine.
Right Guard......hmmmm :razz: I love homegrown ideas like this....
Thanks for joining in on the duhs, dohs, do's & don'ts :read2:
Maybe I missunderstod but it´s not the distributor that needs to be plugged it´s the carb, if I read wrong then overlook with my post.
Sorry swedefish.....yes hose removed from the distributor and plugged.
moper
Well-Known Member
Cheryl, The wandering idle tends to be from either the vacuum advance moving, the advance plate moving, or teh advance weights not behaving. That cam is a little bigger than stock, but if things were all perfect, I don't think a ragged idle would be present. For simplicity, keep the advance unplugged and the line t the carb capped. I woudl also pull the cap and rotor, and look at the distributor carefully. The fast way to fix it IMO is to replace it with an MP unit. The slow way is to pull it apart and inspect the centrifical weights and springs, and throw a curve into it if things look good. You have to have a stable, consistent spark to set timing, and you can't set the carb properly until the timing is set. I dont think you should need any outer carb adjustments. Just jetting, maybe a power valve, and set the idle speed and mixture.
demon seed
The Original Demon Seed
You don't know how lucky you are Cheryl, I haven't been able to do much of anything to my Demon for the past 3 months cuss it's been so stinking cold this winter, my garage is unheated. It's actually unusual where I am to be this cold this long, they say it's supposed to get above freezing today and last for awhile, ya right, and you mentioned a sweaty T shirt also. Ya got pictures? :-D:-D:-D
Terry
Yes Terry, Do feel blessed right now. Have read many threads this year from members that have had such a cold miserable winter. Stupid thing is, we've had one of the mildest winters I can remember....Makes no sense to me.
And by the way, for the record, I never mentioned a "sweaty" anything
[-X....LOL
Finally had some time yesterday to devote to this little beast.:evil1:
Finished up the water pump replacement and filled with coolant for what seems like the 10th time...:tongue2:
She starts easy and we wait for it to get to operating temp. Sure makes a big difference when it's warmed up.:wink:
Recheck initial timing 12 degrees. Idle is a bit erratic, but it will idle on its own.
Dug up an old vacuum gauge and dwell meter to assist in the process. Think this will help you to help me. :tool:
First readings:
7-8 #'s vacuum @ 700-800 rpm
When increasing the rpm to 2000, vacuum is steady @ 17 #'s w/ vacuum advance hooked up or not.....hmmm
Changed the idle mixture screw from 1 turn out to 2 turns out. Seems to smooth out a bit......might have been starving for fuel.
3 turns out w/ the adjustment and the vacuum increased to 11# @ idle. This reading also does not change w/ advance hooked up or not.
When restricting the air flow to the center carb only, the rpm's increase significantly. Does this still sound like a lean condition.....or ??
Finished up the water pump replacement and filled with coolant for what seems like the 10th time...:tongue2:
She starts easy and we wait for it to get to operating temp. Sure makes a big difference when it's warmed up.:wink:
Recheck initial timing 12 degrees. Idle is a bit erratic, but it will idle on its own.
Dug up an old vacuum gauge and dwell meter to assist in the process. Think this will help you to help me. :tool:
First readings:
7-8 #'s vacuum @ 700-800 rpm
When increasing the rpm to 2000, vacuum is steady @ 17 #'s w/ vacuum advance hooked up or not.....hmmm
Changed the idle mixture screw from 1 turn out to 2 turns out. Seems to smooth out a bit......might have been starving for fuel.
3 turns out w/ the adjustment and the vacuum increased to 11# @ idle. This reading also does not change w/ advance hooked up or not.
When restricting the air flow to the center carb only, the rpm's increase significantly. Does this still sound like a lean condition.....or ??
Did not have sufficient time to address your mention of a distributor issue yet....but do have a spare dizzy to install if needed.
Have had several others mention not to mess with the outboard carbs and when restricting their air intake, there was no change in the idle.....only when covering the center carb.
Just an FYI.....
Jets are 63
Power Valve is a 6.5 or 65....
Jets are 63
Power Valve is a 6.5 or 65....
Thank you for your input swedefish....
It might actually make it off the jackstands pretty soon....at least for awhile I hope. :-D
moper
Well-Known Member
You're getting there Cheryl. Keep your chin up. the higher vacuum means its using the extra fuel. It was lean, and might still be. You want to balance the highest vacuum reading with the idle speed you want. Also, how is the float setting? If you have to open the mixture screws that far, it sounds like the float level might be too low. It should be high enough to dribble out the hole at idle. Is the car an automatic or stick? If it's automatic and
you can keep the vacuum at 9 or 10" in gear (that is about what I would expect to see with that cam...) then you can up the power valve a little, it will like it better.
you can keep the vacuum at 9 or 10" in gear (that is about what I would expect to see with that cam...) then you can up the power valve a little, it will like it better.
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
That vaccum gauge will be your best friend for tuning!The members here are great for helping solve your easiest problems!Pics. and or vids. please!8)
daredevil
Well-Known Member
sounds like center carbs sucking air check base gasket with starting fluid if idle raises tighten or change base gasket. just a small shot at base.
daredevil
Well-Known Member
that cam profile is mild and should have good vacumn dowh low
waggin
moving on ain't easy if you drive a Ford :p
Yep,if it increases speed when you cover center carb theres a lean condition,you'll want to search out that problem,watch the vacume gauge as you cover the center carb,vacume should increase,the trick with the propane works well(doesnt mess up the paint)and will be a big help looking for a vacume leak,checking the float levels will be a big help knowing they are right then looking for the lean problem after that will be easier to pinpoint.
bigdemo1
Well-Known Member
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Hello,sorry to hear of your troubles,and this might sound a little basic but i'm wandering how much of your coolant sprayed on your wires,what type is it?if your wires got any anti freeze on them you'll never tune it.Also how old was gas , I believe you stated car was not run for awhile, gas breaks down very fast nowadays.A high lift cam some overlap less than free flowing exhaust slow timing bad wires lots of little things = one big mess.I just went through the same thing,hey if I could figure it out you can too.
:wav::wav:
I drove my car
I drove my car
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Glad to hear!How,s it running?I hope it,s running good for you!
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