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That's the easy part, gravity is helpin out. It's getting out of the dam things that's hard to do. Iv'e come to learn with low cars it's easier to just open the door and fall out on the ground on my side then climb up the car to stand. I love having metal door handles on my car as I'm sure...

Could also be the usual corrosion in the bulkhead connector. Another main source of wiring fires.

Definitely parallel. No build up of resistance thru the other switches and speed up of corrosion.

I always grab a handfull at the wrecking yards when I go.

You might try pulling apart the dash to let it air out a bit, and the harness plugs to get out any moisture. Spray with silicone when going back together to try and flush out any moisture and prevent corrosion. But the sad news is that corroded terminals will plague this vehicle for a long...

Once a vehicle of the newer variety is under water it's a total! Period you are going to chase major gremlins until you completely replace everything but the air in the tires. Besides the water that's in areas not designed to deal with draining water.

Did you try the gauges with the gauge cluster unbolted from the dash?? If so it wasn't grounded and it will do the funky gauge dance to as it tries to find ground thru your senders.

Here's my basic old car drill. Heavy gauge ground straps, from battery to frame, from frame to engine, from frame to body "for Chebies", heater blower motors to body. Most engines have a small ground strap near the back from either intake or cylinder head to firewall. And corrosion can build...

The main thing to check on this and any electrical problem is to check the ground. Most of the light sockets on our mopars are only grounded by spring pressure or a screw thru paint. Clean the grounds and see how that works out.

Another thing to look for is arcing plug wires. Might be crossfiring over and such.

If the resin is melting out of the back of the box I would definitely replace it. And make sure that the new box is well grounded. It's not a good sign when the resin melts out of the back usually a big easy sign that it's gone bad.

Your a trained tech after being a fool and pulling one apart and getting it back together. Correctly at that.

Check up under the dash somewhere around the fuse box.

Here's what I used in my 64 GT. You don't have to hack the dash to mount it, and you can fill the holes if you remove it. Mounted it under the original radio, but over far enough to not block the fuses...

Did you change just the motor or motor and trans? There are contacts in there that set it to park in the trans area, this spot might be worn or just maybe dirty.

For bulb contacts I use a brass gun bore brush on a drill slowly. For others that I can physically touch I use fine sandpaper strips or emery cloth. For stuff that I can't see or reach I use electrical contact cleaner spray, it's safe to use on electric motors, contacts, etc.. and leaves a...

I'm running somthin similar to those. I used two relays one for low beam the other for high beam. It takes alot of stress off of your headlight switch, and bulkhead connector. One of the larger causes of dash fires. They are much brighter than standard headlights, and you can get higher...

From what I learned from my 64 dart the answer is Nope. I had a set of door locks, had an ignition lock keyed to match. Had to buy a trunk lock with key. I paid $35 to get the ign keyed to match.

I'm thinking about trying a little solder also. But would like another board for backup

I'll check for that part number at my friends house he has a few circuit boards laying around just no dashes. I myself am looking for a service for my 64's dash or a replacement. Just loose pins none lost.

It could also be part of your dash not grounding either. The plug from the harness could have a dirty spot etc..But the first thing to check on is the ground piece like stated that jumps from around the rubber line at the tank. Even if it's there doesn't mean it's making contact. Try cleaning...

Don't get a EXIDE!! I used to sell them for Grand Auto and they were junk right off the truck. I started to test them right off the truck after getting a gun stuffed in my face for selling crap. 80% of the time they were junk before they came off the pallet. Interstate or Optima for me...

I thought they were supposed to sound pathetic to annoy the living crap outta you. Just to make you put it on. It was a 50-50 shot. Put on the belt or unplug it.

I don't use a light on mine as I know when I have my finger on the button. One less thing to look for.

If they use a flatbed then they'll drag it up regardless.

I run a electric fuel pump off a relay, and have a very small micro switch hidden that turns off the pump. This way it might start for a second but only move a few feet, maybe into the street. If you have full coverage most likely if they destroy the thing but don't get it to move it's...

Check the basics. As in Alternator connection lug,bulkhead connection, battery cable ends, and ground strap. Big culprit on older cars is the bulkhead connection, and also a major cause of fires. Don't just wiggle it separate the halves and check around all the connectors for soot, and any...

I'd send it back as defective. My mopar starter doesn't make any odd noises. And I haven't heard that they have a tendency to either. I would pull it out and bench test it to see if it makes the noise then to. And go from there.

Mine is under the bumper. But not in a normal way.

Is it rusted out or full of rust? The reason I ask is you can buy a bore brush for a 12g shotgun and bend over the tip and use a drill to clean the inside up of the socket. Worked good for my wagon, as the taillight's were doubling as a fishbowl.