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He might want to check out and see if the shock plate is on the wrong side. I bought a 70 challenger that had been done that way.The original owner "bent" the dang shock to get it to mount. I flipped the plates side to side and the new shocks went on correctly.

66 dart GT convertible. I was stuck at home and unable to stand for long and that is what I figured I could fix "following the doctors orders" sort of.

thanks That's what happens when you get sidelined by the doctor and not able to go to work or stand for a while(10 minutes max if on crutches). you go totally stir crazy and have to find something to do. I looked like a drunken person trying to paint the darn wheel on one crutch. but it dod...

I voted to restore it, But only of you have the time in the winter and have not done it before. Some of mine were crispy like that and I bead blasted mine to remove contaminants and used pc-7. they all came out nice. on my next one I used a member on this sites idea that he posted on...

for the lower seal on the car I'd have taken out the snap ring and removed the pitman arm nut, got a pitman arm puller and pulled the arm down a bit, replaced the arm and nut loosely on the shaft then started the car and turned the wheel to one side or another to pop the seal down to the pitman...

thanks I like it too but have to repaint it since my top came in as a buckskin colored top .:banghead:@#$%@#$%#@ now I have to repaint it pastel sandstone to color match the top of the dash and the door top side trim. tan paint(red "ish" brown and buckskin (green "ish" brown) top just clashed...

nope not a problem for safety. there is a steel ring and rods inside it. welded to the hub. it's a common problem with the older A's easy fix to but a little time consuming from a cosmetic point. here's mine I used something called p-7 or pc-7. a 2 part putty epoxy, it worked great good...

ok my opinion time for what ever it's worth. Since I have no factory data to prove it an can't back it up except for pictures:D and the feel of the car, which is subject to different opinions by whoever is in the car. The factories did research on it. For example one of the members in this...

you can go to NAPA and have them look up a cross reference (with pictures and description) for you .. that is what I had to do for a b body that went from manual to power , /6 to 440 . took a bit of looking but found a ready made piece. Or go to a hydraulic shop and show em both ends and how you...

I can't say for the 69's but on the 63-66 darts the rubber seal goes towards the wheel when you install the splash shields, so it bends out and doesn't allow dirt or other stuff to enter the sealed off areas of the splash shield sort of like the main seal does for oil.

I've used a set from him for my 66 dart. I did feel that the tie rod end sleeves were on the cheaper side, so I re-used the original sleeves. (later to be upgraded to the C body style of tierod and sleeves). I also went with the offset bushings. I mainly wanted to get the balljoints. ball joint...

I just had one snap just sitting there in the yard. now I don't know if it had a scratch or nick on it since I have yet to get to that car but it sure was a surprise to me when I heard a loud noise and looked around to see what tree limb fell n my metal roof , it didn't it was the car leaning...

X2 on that, nice ride decent price , tuck in asway bar and your all set for a DD with a nice feel.

you can rebuild it.the new kits have a little better top rubber piece it'll still melt if the manifolds right against it. don't loose that piece that you asked if you need 2 of, no you only need 1 (it goes side to side holding the side square-ish pieces against the coupler walls)or the top(metal...

I did mine on the rotisserie and didn't have a problem, but I had a solid frame and great rocker panel re-inforcement on the convertible and torque boxes. if I had a hard top (a whole lot less bracing except for the top roof metal)I would have thought 2 or 3 times before I welded it in on the...

did you get a shoe spring in your rebuild kit that fit and did you use it? I looked at mine in the kit I got. there was no way in heck that it' would fit in the coupling without beating it to death to get it to fit. and when I took my old one apart there wasn't a shoe spring in it either...

no bearing goes into that BUT you can get a bearing to work for you. there's a post on here somewhere.9forgot to bookmark it darnit:banghead:) but I did search the bearing out on ebay. nice cheaper fix and the bearing should last a looooong time compared to the nylon insert. call 1" Bearing...

I like the rally wheels also. they are discontinued tires on there (darnit I liked then big old wide ones) but I think if I drive it as much as I want to I'll have to get some new tires just to be safe I think 245/14 are the biggest I can find right now in a new tire but I keep looking...

I hear ya on the 10 inch drum. the scarebird conversion can use either the 9" or 10" spindle for the same adapter if it's 9" they go on the way you see in my post. if 10" they flip and go the other way. I'll find out when I do the wife's car, she has 10" drums on hers. the rotors were cheap! the...

I did the scarebird conversion, from what I understand the stock narrow steelies don't work but any on the other 14's will. I have 14"BBP rally wheels on my 66 and they fit great! and yes I did have the 9" drum spindles. the tire track width looks to be the same as the drum setup. I'll know...

this is the chart floating around at allpar.com double check with the guy/gals here on this board to make sure it's right I'm setting my 66 up with Typ perf street. since it'll never see the track or road racing

Because there is a LOT of (UP/Down) movement in those areas some measured in feet of movement for off road use. if your talking steering column then there is very little movement, more like in millimeters of up and down movement due to body flex and you yanking on the wheel and almost all the...

Welcome and that a nice more door! like they said torsion bar bolts and lowering blocks 'll get it down in the grass.

if it's the front (shorter section of the spring to the locating pin) then they ARE for early A's (63-66 for sure). when I ordered mine I forgot to state that they were early A's springs and they came with the larger style bushings.I had to drill out my bracket and get a larger bolt.

so far on my 65 satellite (440 auto) I've seen this. I have PST poly bushings and all their kit in it. It's tighter than it was (suspension was really bad) and has a solid steering response and is supposed to last longer (it transmits more road noise to the inside of the car though) it did...

there was a link to an article someone on here posted about changing the feel of your power to either a more firmer feel or even how to adjust it for the steering feel you need. I seem to remember that it had to do with some shims (washers) but can't remember any more about it. I'd do a...

Ouch I didn't see that DUH:banghead: well I hope he got it changed over

A manual shaft is a manual shaft on the early a's I don;t know the year your working with but if you want to change your auto column that has power steering you will need the manual(don't care if it's manual on column or floor shift) shaft, the steering box and coupler (i would rebuild it just...

they look like they could go in a little. I just redid mine and had to open up the brackets to get mine in to fit (my inside bushing to bushing was ok but the brackets on the frame rail were squished in from repeated adjusting of worn out bushings) I'd just see if I could get those bushings in...

hmmmm bout a hundred bucks more for just the u bolts and nuts and axle rubber. I just ordered these for my dart (not the ones you listed but the ones below that I listed) it came with all the bushings and doesn't sit level but about 1-2 over stock but it'll probably settle after a bit...