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This also works well.....works well because the dash is made of basiclly foam. A friend of mine had a badly cracked dash and tried a product called "Great Stuff" (sold in hardware stores.) It's basiclly used for cracks around pipes for insulations. It's a liquid spray foam that fills any hole...

WOW - Very sharp, nice work:cheers:

Maybe close! http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?cat=A

Found this: Some were asking about it! http://cgi.ebay.ca/70-76-Dodge-Dart-Duster-Demon-cluster-white-gauges_W0QQitemZ110147369200QQihZ001QQcategoryZ43952QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Very nice....

I heard a lot of guys say their exspensive, but their work is as good as a new product. Heard nothing bad about them...(which is nice for a change):cheers: TONY...That looks crazy nice!

Yup, pull the connectors from the light and wiper switch. There will also be your round electrical connector for all your indications and your (+) power run to your Ammeter. Once the light/wiper & electrical connector are pulled you can pull the cluster closer (towards you) to get at the Ammeter...

I have done the change as well, but I had to wait 3 years to find a good "clean" floor shift column with only a turn signal and without an ignition. Some members here had done excellent jobs on cleaning up their columns. Check out this "thread"...

Every time I see that Avator....I get fustrated :thumbup:

And a full tank of gas at that....where's the smokes LOL

You don't really have to remove your cluster to get out your speedo cable. If you reach up under the dash (right side) you can feel and follow the cable to the back of the cluster. At the end of the speedo cable housing there"s a plastic clip that hooks and holds the housing to the cluster...

That looks really good! No one would ever know...It's a 50/50 thing! I was going to do the same thing but my upper bearing was loose anyways. I ended up finding a 69 dart floor shift for 70.00, however it was from a PS unit and had to extend the shaft. Oh well, looks like were ready to go :thumbup:

Looks good Megatron :thumbup:

If you go all white metal, I agree with Fastback...black glove door to balance with a black cluster and console. (kick panals) black to keep down scuff marks.

I have'nt heard stories of trying to repaint paint the brown "wood grain". Yes, many rebuild their clusters and paint them flat black, silver ect. If you want to stick with the orginal wood grain, you may be able to buy the inserts from some sites. I believe the Archived Section of the Forums...

I have swapped seats before, not that much of an issue once everything is lined up correctly and leveled. You may need to add steel leveling blocks to get things perfect. If you have to make new/different holes in areas "not re-inforced", ensure for "safety and insurance" that you maybe cut (4)...

Looks good dude. Good thing it's not a heavy one. Best check your screws now and then as she may come loose on ya. I can't sell you one, but I have found a few over the years at yards. Just had to clean with rubbing alch, then respray with vinyl paint. :thumbup:

Perhaps I just got some "bad" info on my headliner replacement. If a lot of you guys have replaced yours with no problems, I'm going to shop around some more. :book:

Hi tcp710, I'm in the Victoria area and the only place I could find was Thompson's Auto Upholtery. I'm sure there's others about your area. I haven't done mine yet due to the cost (and chicken). It was depending on many factures. Straight stock like replacement 400.00 installed. If the front and...

Grab that thing and squeeze the the crap out of it....until it turns blue again. Sorry, just had to. I've never heard of anyone bringing back the colour of a faded steering wheel becouse the sunlight penetrates deep to the steel band, however..... next best thing...

This (backside) may give you an idea. The corner ones can be a bi**h due to the tight area. You may also have to take out you heater controls?

Looks good superdart, I'm sure your going to give some guys ideas here. I kinda like the way your cluster is completely black as well :thumblef:

Don, I have removed mine, however some maybe differant. Mine has two hold down bolts within the glove box. Also there are also 4 screws, 2 on each side just below the carpet that secures the con to the trans tunnel hump. If you have a lighter in yours, don't forget to disconect the leads. :salut:

I'm not really up on your dash...and I'm sure somene with one will let you know for sure, however does the hole look like it could have been added for a after market switch? I have known of some people adding an extra cig plug for a added 12 volt to supply an electronic plug. (radar, cell phone...

Could be close...see if you can check out the part number. :book: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-69-70-71-72-73-74-75-76-77-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-LIGHTER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34206QQitemZ4624625843QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Layson, Yearone and of course E-bay has lots (that look good) I think the 76 Duster's door handle was in the same location (higher and more forward) as for the 70 -72 was centered.

For a start check the fender tag if it's still there (engine compartment). It will at least tell you if they were buckets/bench/split bench. Here's a link: http://www.mymopar.com/6268opcodes.htm

Sorry don't have any part number for you, however I have used the vinyl "spray dye" and fabric spray both. The only problem I had was using the fabric spray was on "cloth seats"..If seats are made of cloth, the fabric spreads when sitting showing old color through. Using black on black cloth is...

Just to add..The Ampmeter is hard wired (+) from Alt with little bolts, and there isn't a lot of play. (Time for a sore neck) :notworth:

Those Barracuda Boys are never around when ya need them the most :tongue3: :grin: