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Kinda what I'm hoping to do.

I had my K sandblasted and powder coated. Only cost 120 bucks and done in a week. You'll thank me later.

Boxes can't hurt, so long as they are installed properly. Unless your car is rare or limited production, I don't see why not.

I agree with Rusty. I've watched door gaps change dramatically from dead nuts on a rotisserie to WTF? down on all 4 with drive train installed. Makes sense to do it that way to me.

Thanks for the opinions! I will re-think my original premise that I "need" subs on The Duke....I figured it was a foregone conclusion. As I said, it's mostly gonna be a street build with maybe 400HP if I'm lucky, out of a smallblock. That being said, it's not gonna be a concours resto or even...

There is no rust, now. You see the pix. I'm shooting for a 400HP smallblock build with a 4-speed/3.91 8-3/4, Denny. I was gonna put them in on the recommendation of others here...and it's now or never. As far as welding goes...I would probably bolt them in now and drive to a welder once it's...

I knew we'd figure it out.

Here is a picture of the "suspension" as presently installed... See my dilemma?

Who is this "Special Ed" guy? People keep saying I remind them of him. I hope he's cool..... So lemme get this straight...you are recommending I put it all back together, then jack it up by the diff and control arms to put in the subs? Just trying to clarify. I ain't the sharpest tack in...

OK...I'm at the point where I need to install subframe connectors, if I'm gonna do it. Right now, car is up on jackstands; no motor, K-frame or suspension installed. All doors, hood, decklid close with perfect gaps. I was considering these: http://www.manciniracing.com/maabo11whba.html...

Have not purchased them yet, but plan on using the MP Mancini Racing subs. Bolt-in or weld-on. http://www.manciniracing.com/maabo11whba.html

Thanks...will check it out!:D

Yeah, yellow would be....awkward. White really looks good from the car behind you......:burnout:

Getting ready to bundle up my front suspension bits and pieces and K-frame and haul them off to the powder coater. Any suggestions on color for suspension bits? Rear suspension (diff, springs and shackles, driveshaft and trans) are going to be Rustoleum White. Not sure if white will attract too...

Mancini Racing has both their own and the Mopar SF's in their catalog... http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/bofrcoki.html Personally, I would bolt them in, then do the final welding after it's all back together.

I keep hearing this but nobody can point to any supporting documentation.

So, armed with the info in this thread, I think this will be the plan: *Double-check level of car and jacks *Get a set of Mancini bolt/weld-ons and bolt 'em up *Finish the underside of the car *Have the subs welded on at a later date Should work, no?:-k

But, if all the doors, fenders align properly now, shouldn't this be an indication everything is hunky dory?

It's level. Four jack stands of the same make & model on the same height setting....

Yeah, kinda my thoughts as well. Since I'm doing the underside now and have the interior out, it would be ideal.

A while back I had mentioned installing subframe connectors on my Duster. I asked if bolt-on was OK for street use or if they needed to be welded as well. Several replies surprised me, as more than one poster mentioned subframe connectors needed to be installed with the car in street trim...

I had not even considered the fact that they need to be installed on loaded suspension. Thanks for saving me from a big eff-up! My thoughts were to install them as bolt-ons, then have them welded later. Anyone done this; does it work?

Considering the addition of subframe connectors to my Duster project (340/4 speed/8-3/4 3.91 pumpkin)....would bolt-ons be sufficient for a street project, or should I plan on having them welded?

Why is it you rarely (if ever) see traction bars on an A-body? Is it due to the fact that you can install a pinion snubber that stops rear axle wind-up, or some other reason? Just curious.......

Right now, in case you haven't seen the pix in my resto thread, the front suspension, K-frame and engine/drive train are out of the car and it's two feet up in the air. Maybe it might be a good idea to fit and trim the s/f connectors and bolt them up now, and have'em welded in after I'm done...

Hey all, any preferences and/or recommendations for street car subframe connectors? Are there any decent bolt-ons, or is that a myth? I'm sure welding is better, but I'm not much of a welder. I would appreciate any product links and recommendations you'd have This is a street/strip car, small...

Wow...thanks! So far, overwhelming support for rubber! Who woulda thunk it?

Looking ahead on my project Duster, it shouldn't be too terribly long before I'm ready to reassemble the front suspension. Since all the rubber bushings are at least 30 years old and possibly older, (and deteriorated) it's time to replace them all. At this point I have 2 basic options; 1)...

Thanks.

Thanks for the advice. I might try that, (depending on cost). The motor is squeezing me for every last dime at the moment! :thumblef: