Search results for query: *

.9" is fairly large for use with the stock wheel studs..

Whirring noise definitely isn't normal. Check your flexplate/converter bolts. Everything went together smooth?? My factory 904 shaft only bolts at the differential, with four small bolts and straps.

just checking, you did check the converter bolts for tightness, right?

Dont think that is do-able atleast on my 904. You'll spend more time messing with it than just pulling the trans out, or back enough. -Mike

Use the PM function if you still have a problem, I rather not ruin the guy's thread.

Good call, I'm gonna go ahead and toss out those previous posts of mine to get the thread back to where it was. Sorry about that Jeff!

xx

xx

xx

xx

if transmissions havent changed from 1969 to 2008 then im a astronaut. I feel better about using Type F in my 1972 trans. I'm not too educated on the subject of the Mopar ATF+4, however I wouldn't base using something in a 30 year old design just because the new ones use it. It may be...

Probably, but I'm still very happy with the setup as it sits. :D

"your better off with one built to your combo not just something off the shelf." +1, i run a Dyanmic as well.

Your converter should be custom taylored to your car anyway. Off the shelf units of any kind are a hit and miss. 4.10 and 3.23 will stall at totally different levels, weight, hp, torque, etc, etc...too many variables I wanted mine to stall at 3500, mine will footbrake to that, and flash at...

Yep! I agree... $650 dynamic converter was money well spent

How much too small is it? Could it be the hughes converter is running the larger 7/16" converter bolts vs the smallerr factory ones?

looks 39 to me, i got mine from the dealer when i went 2.76 > 3.91

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/auto/12.html

14" tires are a littttttle short. you mean rims? :D we need to know the tire height, not the rim height. http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/auto/12.html

as mentioned above is either taller tires or an automatic transmissions. there are aftermarket tailshaft additions that include a overdrive gear. made by gear vendors. pricey, but a good unit. even at 28.5" tall rear tires and 3.91s, highway driving sucks with no o/d

Torque down both sides to spec, then using the adjuster wheel, dial in how much endplay. i think the spec is .008" - .015" off the top of my head. Then there should be a lock tab on one of the axle studs, loosen the nut, place the lock inbetween the slots on the adjuster and torque it down to...

Keep really skinny tires on it until you can upgrade your diff.

Yep, you'll be fine with little skinny tires. Go to hook, you'll snap it

Not quite, in my opinion. If its too low it can cause issues as well. If its a tired trans, you may also look into a band adjustment to help get some life back into it for a little while.

Agree with above, it raises the throttle pressure which makes the governor have to create more pressure to make an upshift. Governor works off the tailshaft, so more mph you go = more pressure made, therefore taking it longer to make a shift.

From what i've seen a quality aluminum shaft is only within a pound or two of a factory d.s

i'm one to run factory style bearings, i do like to cut corners where my car will stick and i'll get sideways enough. lol. No worries here with stockers, endplay isn't a huge deal. just my 2cents, someone's gotta support stockers in this thread! lol

x3 exactly how mine is too. but i do have a spring down at the kickdown lever on the trans to return it

If the fluid has not been changed in a long-long time. I'd say 70k-80k+. I would NOT recommend changing the fluid. It can, and likely, will lead to it slipping more than it does now. If its a fresh trans, I run Type F, others run Dexron III

Carrier to Axle Housing (which should be pig to housing) 45ft/lb Axle Retaining Nuts 35ft/lb