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Thanks Dan. It has been brought to my attention that two other guys that have done manual trans conversions on a Dakota and Durango originally equipped with the JTEC automatic PCM have run into fuel cut problems. I'm not totally sure of this yet but I believe this stems from the park/neutral...

The data link connector works just fine. I had a couple transmission solenoid codes (not unexpected) a fuel pump relay control code (also not unexpected) a ROM ID code (?, not a big deal) and a couple others I don't recognize. I was able to clear them but since I don't have a MIL I'm not worried...

All is good thanks. I sold the Scamp and just have 2, I mean, 3 old trucks now so I haven't been around here much.

As far as the photos go if a mod could move them to the forum server that would be great. It's been long past where I can edit the posts and add the photos myself. They are hosted on picturetrail.com and that account may be going away soon and so will the photos so if anyone could help with that...

I did a lot of searching and didn't really find anyone that has done this without the $1000 Hot Wire Auto harness so here it is. I used the 3 JTEC connectors from a 99 1500 4x4 automatic truck and spliced them into a 93 5.2 Ram Charger harness at the 60 way connector. I didn't change any sensors...

My engine expired from my own miscalculation of compression ratio. It was supposed to be 12.3 to 1 but was in actuality 14.7 to 1 resulting in blowing out a head gasket and then detonating a cylinder to death. The rest of the engines oiling system and bearings still looked great. So I guess the...

Power valves shouldn't be needed on a tunnel ram although I think you aren't realizing the full potential with those small carbs. 2 660 center squirters or even 2 750 vacuum secondary carbs would be better and would improve the driveability as well.

You obviously have adjustable rockers, try adjusting them and see what happens.

Sweet!

Pics of the sister are required before rendering a judgement on that. lol

All true which is why I said to take it apart and check everything when you get it back. To not get anything from him would be a mistake in my opinion. He'll get some new parts out of the deal and maybe some cash too, then he can proceed to make it right if it is not when he gets it back. Even...

Well, this is my take. He has offered to repair your engine for no charge and maybe even give you a little money for the R&R. That seems totally fair to me. Everybody makes mistakes and no I don't think tacking a chunk of metal to the counterweight is proper. I would let him repair it on his...

Where the roller is mounted. I have yet to see the oil band come out of the lifter bore.

I'm using a Crane solid roller cam and lifters in my LA with .456 lobe lift and after looking at it I don't need to tube the oil galley or bush the lifters. If you put the cam in then one set of lifters at a time you can look down the galleys from the front and rear (plugs removed of course) and...

blink blink...blank stare...

Thanks again Jerry for getting this done. Looking forward to getting my engine together.

Gray silicone sealer is your friend.

Pics of the pan, the gaskets you used and the rear main cap. I have a pan gasket for an old SB that has ends seals I don't ever recall seeing on anything. I don't remember what year(s) it is supposed to fit though.

I also like to keep a water hose handy for cooling the radiator or whatever just in case. If you have to shut it off don't sweat it, just get it back up to RPM when you restart it. A helper is always good in this situation.

I got a nice 260/266 .630/.630 solid roller for sale. Just sayin...

Look at it this way, so say you lose 3 or 4 hundred dollars now, that's still a lot cheaper than scattering that engine and losing what, 2,3 or 4 thousand dollars? Just sayin' because I've been there and done that, got the wall of shame to prove it too.

Thanks for coming on here Jerry and introducing youself. Let us know when the magazine with your article in it will be out. There's a bunch of good guys here that don't frequent Moparts.

Well it will probably not hurt the caps when the crank breaks. Why don't you sell your cast crank and get a forged unit? Only two sets left from this run guys. If you want anything other than a 360 main steel cap you need to order soon.

My order has been placed. Jerry said these should only be about 2 weeks out before they will ship.

You'll have to decide for yourself, I'm not making them or selling them just getting them done. Here is what Jerry at SD Concepts replied. I don't think you can ask for better than that. Here's the link or PM me for the phone number. www.sdconcepts.com

Just got the pricing, $450 plus shipping of course for four caps. If I can get at least 5 buyers the price drops to $350 per set. These caps will be flat all the way across so the main girdle will have full contact with the cap. He can do 360 or 340 main size also. Any takers?

After seeing Mike at MRL Performances post about his main caps and girdle able to take a stock block with a 4" fill safely to 700 horsepower I contacted Mike about a set. Unfortunately he no longer offers them as he can't find a supplier reasonably. I have found someone willing to produce the...

Most mech roller cams have the 2 & 4 cam journals grooved to provide full time oiling to the rockers. You need oil up there, it cools the valve springs and keeps it from burning the pushrod cups and such. Restricting the oil was a Chevy thing, not needed on a Mopar. Many of these "ideas" come...

360's weren't magnums until 93 and even then those blocks were still drilled for LA style oiling of the rocker shaft.

Well just a couple options here would be a 360 crate motor, carbed or EFI. The other option would be a 318 or 360 Magnum motor and the stock EFI. You'll get a complete running engine and the EFI option makes it very driveable. I'd love to build a 273 but honestly bang for the buck and...