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I ran into a vibration problem a while ago on a 727. Turned out that I needed to bolt on the triangle shaped weight on the tailshaft of the tranny. I added the weight and the vibration went away. Might not be your problem but it might be worth looking into.

I put in a later Hyd headed slant in Nikkis 66 Dart and used the stock 66 904 and converter. It fit fine and runs but at freeway speed there is a very slight vibration. You wouldn't even notice it if you weren't a "car guy". I need to pull the tranny and get the spacer from torqueflitepattys...

I would say do it the right way the first time so you want have to do it all over again. I have tried half assing it on a few things and it just isn't worth it especially if you have to pull the tranny.

I know there was a chevy version just like with the NP435 but I thought S-10s all came with 5 speeds if they weren't an auto?

Pics?

I traded a carter HP fuel pump for mine to a member here. Just post an ad in the wanted section and see what comes up, see if you have something to trade for a pair. I wouldn't pay more than 30 or 40 bucks for a pair.

Yup, open means non posi or non sure grip if you are one of the anally retentive mopar only hard core mofos.

If he still has it go get it. The U-bolts can be bought at most parts stores, the 8 3/4 and 8 1/4 shock plates are the same. You will need to get a shorter drive shaft there is a difference of 1.6".

None as far as I know. Your only chance is a early 7 1/4 or a 8 3/4.

Just remember that there is some stretch that happens during the first 2 weeks and you will need to take some of the slop out. Other than that they work great! If you want to eliminate the unbraiding wrap some tape around the cable housing with your cut in the center of the tape. Also for the...

Just remember when looking up part numbers that the large bolt pattern bearings are a different size than the small bolt pattern. You might want to try and track down the bearing BEFORE you take the car apart, they can be hard to find sometimes and $$$. Some cases it is cheaper and easier to...

A Quicksilver shifter will work with some mods (talk to Demon Seed, I think he is the one that did it). I made a D-100 indash shifter work in an A-body console when I was building the 72 Scamp that we traded to Redscampi. I never got a chance to get the right cable hooked up though. The shift...

Not unless it is a sure grip (posi). I had one grenade on me when I pulled out into traffic (no burn out) after I swapped the stock 2bbl for a 4bbl on a 318.

Why not? They cam stock in daily drivers and they still work great for racing.

I have never really heard anything good about TCI trannies. If you are going to keep the slant and you want more tranny options then you need the adapter plate and crank spacer out of a mid 60's (I can't remember the exact years) dodge truck/van with a slant and a 727. It was a smallblock V8...

I always do then lay down some old towels and do a quick flip so none spills out. Make sure that you get the converter seated. You will hear a hollow "clunk" sound when it is.

Everything I have found says that the 7 1/4 drive shaft needs to be shortened 1 1/2" to fit properly. I'm getting ready to do the swap in my 73. Ross is running a stock 7 1/4 drive shaft in his sisters scamp with a 8 1/4. It works but you can feel it.

The converter I have was a stock replacement for a 318/904 in a 73 scamp and the slant/904 would be roughly the same year give or take a few.

Never really had them sitting next to each other but would a 318/904 converter be the same as a 225/904 converter or are the totally different and I should punch myself in the face for even thinking about it? Note.....wasn't my idea but a buddy said that they may be the same, I kinda...

(Responding to this while eating my luch at work as a welder/custom fabricator.) I would do 1"-2" sections staggered from side to side, let it cool down and weld the whole thing solid. That way you wont get any water trapped inbetween the brace and rear housing and start rusting from the inside...

Like I said if you aren't going to use it let me know what you want for it. I may be able to arrange pick up or meet you some place on your side of the hill.

If you don't use it let me know what you want for it, I am in North Renton.

You don't! You throw them away and find a 8 1/4 at least thats what I'm doing. I was going to keep the stock 7 1/4 in my 73 dart but the cost of new bearings and seals for one is just retarded. It was cheaper just to find an 8 1/4! The 7 1/4 uses seal bearings so the cost shoots way up.

3.91

Bump! Come one I know you guys have some measurements for your cars so post them, lets get a list going and when it is large enough I will make a chart for them.

Well Santa Ross is bringing me a 8 1/4 for the dart so I will be swapping out the 7 1/4 that I just swapped in pretty soon. I will need shock plates for a 8.25 but I also need the measurements for a driveshaft in a 73 dart custom (4 door) slantsix/904/8.25. We should put together some sort...

Get it, that is a good price! I paid 60 for the Lokar kickdown that is on the slant. You will have to readjust it after about 3 days of driving as they stretch a little bit but it will be better than the crap that came from the factory.

The Lokar kickdown is actually cheaper than the stock rod anymore.

If it is a 7 1/4 you will be able to do ONE burnout unless it is a true tracking posi grip then it will last for a while longer.

Do you want to sell or trade it? I'm looking for one for my 53 Merc with a 360 :D