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Call Russell at Sound German Automotive. He’s doing these 8HP70 swaps pretty regularly. Sound German Automotive

It is a one-wire and I would recommend leaving it that way. You can see the exact same alternator (different finish) installed here: Gallery: Vying For Voltage With A Mopar 110-Amp One-Wire Alternator - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news...

Here is a Powermaster installation article that may be of some assistance: Gallery: Stepping Up the Amperage with an Original Look Powermaster Alternator - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech

Here’s a how-to article showing the installation of a 110-amp one wire: https://moparconnectionmagazine.com/gallery-vying-for-voltage-with-a-mopar-110-amp-one-wire-alternator/

Look for Packard 56 or Delphi 56 or GM 56... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NW_725145

Download a service manual and see for yourself! MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

I use Flex-A-Prene 100% of the time when it comes to cables that are 6 gauge or bigger. Amazon actually has decent pricing on it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077NJJVS4/?tag=fabo03-20

Mopar Connection Magazine had an installation article on a 440. I just put the part number 440-427 on a 383. Pretty happy with it. Easy Electronic Ignition Upgrade With Official Mopar Parts From Profom Parts - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news...

I used a Cole Hersee 24213 solenoid. It's activated with a small toggle switch that just turns the ground side of the solenoid on/off. Keeps wiring/hardware under the dash small and simple.

Proform 440-415 Proform Mopar Licensed High-Torque Starters 440-415

Did the kit come with a heat sink? Regardless of where you put the module, it needs a good heat sink.

I have it on a '69 Mopar and a '72 Mopar...

Ford EDIS controlled by a Megajolt box under the dash. That's what I prefer to run on my cars. It'll give you exactly what you're asking for and allow you to get rid of the distributor entirely. MJLJ V4 Operation Guide - Autosport Labs

How do you know it "clearly" needs more voltage at the coil? Have you measure it at the coil with the relay on? Also, please detail how you have the 30, 85, 86, and 87 pins wired. Where is the relay trigger coming from? Blue or brown wire from the ballast resistor?

That is a fine connector as long as it's crimped properly. You need to use the appropriate crimp tool for insulated terminals.

I can get one done. I sell these 36-1 wheels here: [FOR SALE] - 36-1 Crank Trigger Wheels 318/340/360/383/440 I believe the factory Magnum reluctor had 8 holes, but I'm not sure of the overall diameter of the ring? Size of the holes and overall diameter would come in to play when designing a...

Yeah I knew that, but I'm looking for the actual name of the connector series. It's used on a lot of late model Chrysler products, but I've never heard the name (like Packard 56, Metri Pack 150, etc).

What kind of connector is this? It's the one with the little red locking tab.

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I put a new Accel Breakerless SuperStock coil (http://www.jegs.com/i/Accel/110/8145C/10002/-1) on my 440 with the Mopar Performance electronic ignition kit. After putting about 50 miles on the new coil, the ballast resistor (1.2 ohm) supplied with the MP kit burned up. I tried another 1.2 ohm...

Here's a pic of the guts. I suppose you could just put a tack weld on the slot where the pin on the counterweight comes through, but it shouldn't be that much of a problem to remove them all together.

Couldn't you just remove the counterweights to do away with the mechanical advance? No welding required.

Any other Pertronix users?

You could try: EZ Wire Rebel Wire (a lot of people seem to like) Kwik Wire Haywire

As long as you're not cutting up anything that isn't reproduced, it's all good. I would go with an oil pressure or water temp gauge in the center. Those are a lot more vital than a fuel gauge.

I agree with daredevil. Just find some springs that are about the right length and see what kind of curve they give you. I did try the Mr. Gasket springs a while back though. I think they are part number 925B. I put 1 Mr. Gasket spring and 1 light spring from a '68 383 factory distributor in my...

If you take the cap off and pull the vacuum advance unit out, it will have a number stamped on one side it that says how many degrees it's worth. Seems like most of the distributors I've pulled apart are 22 at the crank.

I've never replaced one completely, but I've done plenty of wiring repair work under the dash. I can say that it is extremely handy to have a reproduction factory manual handy so you know exactly where every wire goes.

Many places sell wiring harnesses if you are looking for a factory one. Year One, Paddock, and the like.

Are you talking about the bulkhead? Sounds like you might have to get a new harness from somewhere like Year One, unless you can find a donor car.