1966 Factory V8 Valiant Signet Restoration For My Other Daughter
- Thread starter Jim Kueneman
- Start date
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What part? Including all the metal work too? If so upwards of $50k
Scamp Rhonda
Well-Known Member
Hey Jim, I don't know if I missed it in another post or not but could you tell us how many gallons each, of primers, base coat and clear coat that you needed for complete coverage?
Thanks, Steve
Lots of primer as I was trying to only use epoxy primer and a gallon of SlickSand Poly. About 1.5 Gallons of base and about 2 gallons of clear but I did the entire car, top, bottom, inside and out.
Scamp Rhonda
Well-Known Member
Thanks very much now I can plan my material list better. Plan on doing the Scamp this spring. Hoping to only need a gallon of base for what I'm doing. Not sure if I am going to use clear or not. Heck, I'm still not 100% sure what color. Lol. Yours looks beautiful!
And away we go! Were oh where does the ballast resistor go now I have AC?
Jeff Seighman
aka jeffnmo
Oh, Hell yeah, get r done.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
I'll be looking forward to when you get to the window/vent window refurbish. I'll be doing that on my 66 Dart soon and any photos you can take would help a lot. These restoration threads of yours are such a great resource!
My Dart thread should have that as well.
Another HOME RUN for Jim, the car looks fantastic.
Just so I don't lose this!
WOW Jim What you have done to this little old Valiant is amazing. I'm so looking forward to seeing it finished & sending pictures to the lady I/we bought it from when it is done. Like I said she owned it for 48 years. The Valiant look absolutely amazing. If you need a break from working on it I could use a little help on my old Chevy. You know the red one. Is the best number to call you on the one that ends in 08? Have a great rest of your weekend. Mac
Thanks Mac. I need to get the welder out today so I will see about your T-Bird linkage...
After a 3am to 3am run to Bakersfield Ca to pick up a new car with a buddy I still got the suspension parts blasted for the '66 Valiant, epoxy primed-Seymours Castblast/Stainless Steel-Universal Cleared this weekend... Now if UPS finds my lost rear springs this puppy should be a roller next weekend!
Too hard to tape these up.... need to pop out the pistons.....
Hi Jim I noticed the upper control arms,I did tell you that they were brand new OEM's & new ball joints didn't I. Same with the disk brakes & lower ball joints. New spindles & inner & outer bearings, all new. I sent pictures of the car to the previous owner & he was amazed at what you have done to the Valiant. I'm pretty amazed at what you have done with it too. regards MAC
yes you did. Thanks Mac
Forget what?.....
Jim what's the paint color on the lower control arms, I want to duplicate that.
Keith Mopar
Mopar Nut
Jim you do some fantastic work. I use your threads to help me out with my stuff I'm working on!
Keep the pics coming!
Keep the pics coming!
Hit it with the stainless steel then go back with the yellow and orange just kind of misting and splotching in a haphazardly way. Totally random and uneven. I then shot universal clear coat over it just so that it’s super easy to clean in the future.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Where do you come up with this stuff?!! You're a freakin genius!
I use the yellow only when trying to poorly simulate yellow chromate finish like on master cylinder covers and bolts. It gives it the right effect though it is obvious it is not real yellow chromate finish. It's all about the Hollywood effect... one piece at a time is not 100% "correct" but as a whole package the effect is believable... Hollywood Jim?
Got one of those jobs I was putting off done... First the best aftermarket sending unit for A Bodies is one for A-100 Trucks. It has a long arm on the float so it does not stay full forever, start to move then drop to empty in 20 miles and stay there for the rest of forever.. The Dart is fairly accurate other than with about 4 gallons it reads empty so I put a bit of a bend up on the float to see if I can make it more accurate around E. First thing to do is throw the supplied ring and gasket where it belongs and get a Detroit Muscle Technology ring and seal. It is the original thickness metal and the original material seal. Same goes for the filler tube seal, only DMT parts. The trunk floor was for multiple years so you had to cut the hole for the filler tube.
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