1966 Factory V8 Valiant Signet Restoration For My Other Daughter

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12 teeth short of a full gear... wonder why the speedo was so far off... had a 21 tooth in it... good grief... what did it have a 2.46 or or something! Now has a 33 which should be dang close... have a 32 and 34 just in case.

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Working into the night. OK the custom home made 1966 Valiant rear window seal is installed. Man I wish somebody would give steel rubber $60,000 to make that gasket! Never do that again. Period. But it sure looks a whole lot nicer than that 50 year old gasket. Now I’ve got to find the $130 worth little corner pieces that I bought and I’ve been moving around for the last two years and now believe I’ve thrown them out with the trash! 

Sorry no videos or in progress photo. This taxed my sanity.

Edit: the same car that donated the upper rear quarter panel is now giving one last time and a set of original corner pieces are in the mail.

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Maybe hung up over a bootie. Bummer. Early A’s and B and E body Hemi’s are the same. Cool but likely not here till Monday.

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Re: Third photo in post #3781: I never saw a hold-down spring on the factory jack before. I wonder if that was standard equipment?
 
Front belts “restored”. No longer light turquoise at least. Taking to my auto paint store he said just use SEM paint to change the color. Saturate it and scrub it in with a brush. Works great. After hanging overnight they are stiff and straight. After working them a bit they softened right up.

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i've painted faded or wrong colour carpet black in the past with normal rattle cans. as you say soak it, but i rub it in with rubber gloves on. once dry again as you say it's stiff but another rub over and it's fine.
neil.
 
Easier to put in your bung hole before installing the exhaust but I was to lazy to go to town to get one. Now it is done. The 1403 is perfect at idle and WOT but a full AFR point or more rich in midrange. New metering rods on order. Need to do this to the Duster as well. Bought the AFR meter as the major too purchase when doing the Dart.

Also notice my attempt at making the welds match the factory weld quality.

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Testing the accuracy of the fuel gauge and tuning the carb. While I’m waiting for the wife to bring some gas may as well take a few photos. Carb is in tune though and E means empty.

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Replaced the MC with a 15/16” bore. While there I measured the booster push rod length. It was way to long and preloading the MC. I assumed Booster Exchange set that. If they did it’s not for the right car (early Chevrolets had the same booster I am told). Bottom line check the rod adjustment from them. Adjusted to the right length. With the booster actually working now, the preload was clearly causing it to leak or something, and the 15/16” MC it is too good. I can lock the fronts with very little pressure. I may go back to the 1 1/16” bore MC.

Leaned out the Edelbrock midrange by one “stage” and got 1.0 leaner on the AFR meter. Now 12.5 at WOT 13.5 at idle and 14 cruising. Perfect.

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Here we go. Took it to it first show and first long trip. Ran flawlessly. @billccm stopped by for 2 seconds to deliver Christmas presents. Thanks Bill!

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I said it would never happen but I’m working a deal on this. It will most likely be for sale when done. 1972 Demon 340 4speed. Not original engine and transmission but still a great car to bring back from a bare shell.

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