1966 Factory V8 Valiant Signet Restoration For My Other Daughter

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What is this hole for? With the AC box it is blocked... @GTX JOHN brought a mint early timing cover for a small block down from Vegas since he was racing at Tucson Dragway. Thanks John, great meeting you and this was a great part for a great price.

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That hole is for the throttle rod. Or maybe cable, not sure what year they switched. On my 63 it is where the throttle rod for the slant 6 passes through from the pedal assembly. Maybe on the air conditioned car it is routed differently? I attached a picture of my engine bay before I finished tearing it down with the throttle rod

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That hole is for the throttle rod. Or maybe cable, not sure what year they switched. On my 63 it is where the throttle rod for the slant 6 passes through from the pedal assembly. Maybe on the air conditioned car it is routed differently? I attached a picture of my engine bay before I finished tearing it down with the throttle rod

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Yeah I figured that out that hole and threaded bracket is for the six cylinder and the old rod. The V8 is the one next to the bulkhead. Looks like all the cars got that hole even if they didn’t have a six.
 
Can’t leave well enough alone. Went the Perfect Paint Job from the SPI tech manual way, wet sanded it and 4 more coats. Done.


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Wow looks great will you leave alone for the week and do other stuff while it cures for a bit?
 
i wa stold by a friend who's been in the body and paint industry for over 30 years that with modern 2k paints it's best/easiest to flat and polish the next day as 2k only gets harder day by day. it's much easier to work with before it's 'fully' cured. always worked for me too. why make things harder for yourself?
neil.
 
i wa stold by a friend who's been in the body and paint industry for over 30 years that with modern 2k paints it's best/easiest to flat and polish the next day as 2k only gets harder day by day. it's much easier to work with before it's 'fully' cured. always worked for me too. why make things harder for yourself?
neil.

Not with this clear this clear stays flexible and soft forever ever you can buff it out a year from now and it won’t be much harder than it would be tomorrow. There’s a big difference between production type bodywork materials and high-end restoration stuff it stays soft so it won’t chip as easy
 
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Not with this clear this clear stays flexible and soft forever ever you can buff it out a year from now and it won’t be much harder than it would be tomorrow. There’s a big difference between production type bodywork materials and high-end restoration stuff it stays soft so it won’t chip as easy
I can verify there is a difference between production and higher end materials. When I was painting locomotives we had a special hardener made for us so it would cure super fast. It was a challenge for us to get a nice glossy finish from the clear coat because it cured so fast. We had to put it on really heavy and try not to get runs in it.
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I can verify there is a difference between production and higher end materials. When I was painting locomotives we had a special hardener made for us so it would cure super fast. It was a challenge for us to get a nice glossy finish from the clear coat because it cured so fast. We had to put it on really heavy and try not to get runs in it.
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You painted Soo Line locomotives! Cool!
 
I can verify there is a difference between production and higher end materials. When I was painting locomotives we had a special hardener made for us so it would cure super fast. It was a challenge for us to get a nice glossy finish from the clear coat because it cured so fast. We had to put it on really heavy and try not to get runs in it.
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Southern Polyurethane makes all these different clears. Universal Clear is the high end high solid clear, Production Clear is, well for production shops as it dried fast and hard then Speed Clear which is like you are talking about it sets up in minutes and you can drive the car away in an hour.
 
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