1971 Duster 360/727

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Wow, almost a year has passed and not much has happened.
I could use some advice on where to Connect the vacuum lines to finish this, where do I put like the hose for the brake booster, distributor? I am also going to run closed crank vent but I don't know where to put the hose from the valve cover?

We also ran into a problem with using the old linkage from the slant six, all gears work except putting it into first, it's so stubborn that it pulls the upper arm out of the bushing.

Other than that the only big thing left is to make some throttle linkage, I tried searching in some Swedish Stores but couldn't find any "complete" sets.

Now I just hope for better weather, last morning I had -33 Celsius...
Cheers
 
So now I've done two test drives after breaking in the cam :)
It runs like a beast but unfortunately it won't Idle that good, also runs rough on low rpms while gas is coming out the exhaust.
Gonna set the valve lash again since I put back the inner valve springs.

I got recommended to drive about 300 miles below 3000rpm and then do another oil change before driving it hard, does this seem reasonable?
 
So today I got the valves set, idling is kinda fine for now. Still some fine tuning left to do.
Replaced my faulty tachometer as well, the old one was crap.
Got my seat back finished, the base was really bad shape so the end result was not perfect but it works and much better than a blanket.
Third gear not working, have to replace the horn and rewire the small lights in the front but otherwise everything seems to work.

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For start up, try 15* initial and 32* by 3K without the vacuum line attached. 50/52 total max with the vacuum advance hooked up.
 
Okay thanks, I am running without vacuum to the distributor though since all ports on the carb were plugged.
Is this a bad idea?
 
The vacuum advance adds drive ability and mileage while allowing full power.

How does that sound?

:lol:
 
Sounds like thats what im missing right now , Can I use manifold vacuum? Because I can buy adapters and put it in the intake.
I drove it for about 30-40 min down to town today, it went smooth but took a while driving in second gear.
When I arrived at my sisters place it overheated, the gear linkage fell apart and I messed up the sender for the cooling fan ...
Couldnt add the photo from my phone but I will give you proof later ;p
 
So, this weekend we had a big meeting here in my town.
It is a very small town but there was 372 cars in the show plus a lot more that they didnt have room for.
The car ran quite good, it does NOT like cruising speed though, gets really warm and starts running bad, stalling out when putting in drive from neutral etc.
I also gave a friend a ride, ofcourse he wanted me to do some burnouts but from a stand still, it wont even spin one tire, if I punch it while on the street it rips and just flies away so I guess my stall might be a bit high?
My brake cylinder also leaks so I ordered a kit for a rebuild, I guess it is leaking vacuum from there as well so it might run better when properly sealed.

Anyhow, it was a fun day and im really glad that I finally got the car out.
Didnt take any photos myself so im borrowing a picture, dont know if he is a member here or not :)

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So I decided to switch out my carb for a new street demon instead.
Got recommended the 625 instead of 750.

Installation was a breeze and it fired up instantly, ran really smooth.
Took it for a drive and when I give it gas it just rumbles and shakes the whole car, also feels like a turd.
It runs much cooler though and much better in low rpms.

Anyone with experience with these demon carbs who can give some advice? I tried adjusting the mixture screws but didnt really do much difference.

Cheers
 
So some things have happened.

I fixed a couple issues regarding alternator, wiring, brakes and such.
Got it mot'd forever, wont have to do it ever again.

Then I have had trouble with the Hedman headers running too Close to the steering arms, exhaust bolts coming loose etc.
It was raining quite hard some days ago and I was playing around a bit, maybe just a bit too much because I ruined my rear end and almost slid off the road.

I just parked it and now I dont know if I want to fix it or just sell it, there is still much to do and im in the process of buying a house which needs some attention this winter.
The plus side is that I might be able to work on the car in the warm garage next to the house instead of one hour drives to my dads cold garage.

I did ask around a bit and checked prices, a torsen differential would cost me about 1250 dollaros, and I think it would be nice for the car.

End of rant

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Here’s the great thing about the car and why you shouldn’t sell it. You own it, there is no payment due on it, it owes you nothing, it costs you nothing except perhaps to keep insurance and plates on it yearly.

Sometimes, you just have to let it sit for a while. Take care of what is needed first. Your own house with a warm garage is a huge home run. If anything, take the time to set up your garage to be the best place to work on the car for when that time comes again.

Do not let the car get you down or upset. It is a diamond in the rough waiting for the day. The garage is the jewelry box. Just keep smiling knowing the day is coming. My example below. “The car” that waits for a better day.

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Thanks for the input rumblefish, you are probably 100% right. I have great storage capabilites at my fathers place and as you said, I have no debt or anything in the car. I dont know when i'll gain access to the house but the garage won't be the number one priority either. I would surely regret selling it too, they are becoming quite expensive and sought after here in Sweden.
What are the plans for your car?
 
MY plans for that ol’heap-O-**** Cuda? Ahhhhh, well, a lotto victory would be nice!
LMAO!!!!!

Seriously, it is a ‘73/4spd. I’d like to resto the body minus the change of a full black out hood w/the seen AAR hood and the Unseen “Go Wing” on the trunk. A color change from the (not on the car now) stock “Dark Bronze Metallic” to the “Light Bronze Metallic” or maybe “Burnt Orange” & not put on the white stripe as delivered as per the paper work.
(Brown with a white stripe? Who ordered THAT?!?! :realcrazy: )

Engine wise, I’m sonic checking 340 blocks now for a suitable one for a mini (Ol’ tyme) stroker. I have a forged 3.58 (360 CID) stroke crank for the 340. I got it stupid cheap. $425 delivered to the house. Piston size to be determined by the blocks capability. 372 CID or more.

I have most of the engine parts waiting there moment. They are;
6 pack air cleaner a/K&N filter
Carbs are brand new with Pro Max enhancements
6 pack manifold pro ported
Edelbrock RPM heads, pro ported w/2.08 intake valves
Solid roller cam customized and speced by me. [email protected]/.600
1.6 rockers with all the strength parts
Hooker Super Comp headers @ 1-3/4
Exhaust configuration yet to be determined.
Looking to make it up with extreme efficiency and yet still be quite enough not to cause old Johnny Law to bust my chops.” David Vizard has some interesting thoughts on the matter.

The car is a natural born 4spd. A Lakewood scatter shield is in there now from racing days gone past. Clutch set up to be determined later.
A 8-3/4 born with the car holds a 489 w/4.10’s now. This may change depending on the cars behavior and cruise RPM in the street. The suspension is new and stock. 440/HEMI leafs in the back.

Interior is white and will be redone in white as stock with only a cranking stereo to blow out the years with. I might go with an older head unit, I’m not sure. Newer stereos with all there cool goodies are so nice vs. the older units from the 80’s! LMAO (Ozzy’s Boneyard!) I have an older Pioneer amp @ 90 nominal by 180 max watts powering the Kenwood 6X9’s. My sub amp is gone and the sub itself is a 10 inch needing a new box. No big deal there.

That’s about it really. Nothing grand, just what I want to do with it.
:thumbsup:
 
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rumblefish360 said:
MY plans for that ol’heap-O-**** Cuda? Ahhhhh, well, a lotto victory would be nice!
LMAO!!!!!

Seriously, it is a ‘73/4spd. I’d like to resto the body minus the change of a full black out hood w/the seen AAR hood and the Unseen “Go Wing” on the trunk. A color change from the (not on the car now) stock “Dark Bronze Metallic” to the “Light Bronze Metallic” or maybe “Burnt Orange” & not put on the white stripe as delivered as per the paper work.
(Brown with a white stripe? Who ordered THAT?!?! :realcrazy: )

Engine wise, I’m sonic checking 340 blocks now for a suitable one for a mini (Ol’ tyme) stroker. I have a forged 3.58 (360 CID) stroke crank for the 340. I got it stupid cheap. $425 delivered to the house. Piston size to be determined by the blocks capability. 372 CID or more.

I have most of the engine parts waiting there moment. They are;
6 pack air cleaner a/K&N filter
Carbs are brand new with Pro Max enhancements
6 pack manifold pro ported
Edelbrock RPM heads, pro ported w/2.08 intake valves
Solid roller cam customized and speced by me. [email protected]/.600
1.6 rockers with all the strength parts
Hooker Super Comp headers @ 1-3/4
Exhaust configuration yet to be determined.
Looking to make it up with extreme efficiency and yet still be quite enough not to cause old Johnny Law to bust my chops.” David Vizard has some interesting thoughts on the matter.

The car is a natural born 4spd. A Lakewood scatter shield is in there now from racing days gone past. Clutch set up to be determined later.
A 8-3/4 born with the car holds a 489 w/4.10’s now. This may change depending on the cars behavior and cruise RPM in the street. The suspension is new and stock. 440/HEMI leafs in the back.

Interior is white and will be redone in white as stock with only a cranking stereo to blow out the years with. I might go with an older head unit, I’m not sure. Newer stereos with all there cool goodies are so nice vs. the older units from the 80’s! LMAO (Ozzy’s Boneyard!) I have an older Pioneer amp @ 90 nominal by 180 max watts powering the Kenwood 6X9’s. My sub amp is gone and the sub itself is a 10 inch needing a new box. No big deal there.

That’s about it really. Nothing grand, just what I want to do with it.
:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Haha sounds like youve got it figured out then
About the stereo though, some of the previous owners on My car decided to get wasted and then they built some kick panels for speakers. They look like sh*t and theyre not even bolted down so they Keep flying around in the car
They did however hook up some 6*9s in the back with an amp, im gonna Keep that and just redo the wiring a bit. And probably add a vetter head unit with aux or bluetooth support
 
Ehhhhh, it’s a plan, I’ll stick to it. Otherwise it just adds expense to change the plan.
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71DusterSwe said:
Haha sounds like youve got it figured out then
About the stereo though, some of the previous owners on My car decided to get wasted and then they built some kick panels for speakers. They look like sh*t and theyre not even bolted down so they Keep flying around in the car
They did however hook up some 6*9s in the back with an amp, im gonna Keep that and just redo the wiring a bit. And probably add a vetter head unit with aux or bluetooth support
Click to expand...
 
rumblefish360 said:
Ehhhhh, it’s a plan, I’ll stick to it. Otherwise it just adds expense to change the plan.
View attachment 1715383384 View attachment 1715383385
Click to expand...

Just gotta love six packs.
My dad bought a 1971(i think) challenger 340 six pack some twenty years ago, original side pipes and stuff.
He had to keep special papers in the car for when the the police pulled him over because its not really allowed in Sweden.
I've tried buying it back but they är really, really expensive here so that will probably never happen.
 
So, time for a little update. Mostly because I, again, am in need of advice.

Last year I thought I blew the rear end but it turns out it was one of the drums sticking.
First start up of the year it just wouldnt start, ended up blowing up one of my mufflers in a big boom. The plugs were BAD, so I cleaned them up and it fired right up again and ran good for some time.
Next day, it didnt start. Same thing again, the plugs were black.

So I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and it read about 7,5psi at idle which I read is too high but I bought another set of plugs so I still wanted to just do a basic adjustment of the carb and take it for a ride just to see if it made a difference.
While adjusting the demon, I found out that the secondary air valve didnt really close all the way so I was going to adjust it but the "neck" of the adjusting screw had cracked so I didnt want to make it crack even more.
We disassembled the demon and found that the tensioning spring was crumbled up inside of it and the air valve didnt even fit snug enough to fully close, so we put in another spring and shaved the valve just a little bit around the corners so it would open and close easily and then put it back on the car.

Then I went back to try and tune it when it was warmed up, hooked up a vacuum gauge to set the idle mixture screws to where I had the highest vacuum but my gauge kept going from like 13-16hg and it didnt seem to change much at all while adjusting the screws. So I set the idle to like 900-1000rpm and we had some beers and went cruising for about 45 min. It ran good all the time, but if you gave it more than half throttle it just instanly bogs.
The next day I was just gonna start it and move it inside the garage again and I was curious what the plugs looked like. Now they were completely white? Like before it was running so rich it killed the plugs and now all of a sudden its running lean.
I had ngk 8's before and got suggested to change to ngk 6's instead, I think the eu standards is different from the us though.

I guess my questions are, do I have a vacuum leak since the gauge jumps a bit or could it be something worse inside the engine? Also how do I know what my total timing with vacuum advance will be when I dont know the specs of the distributor?
 
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