1972 Duster, 340/4, black on black (the endgame)

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Pretty safe bet it wasn't a ground as the wire harness is completely reconditioned. It was the alternator. The one I initially put in it was probably out of an '84 Omni I had waaaay back in the day that I was saving for potential rebuild. In the end I went with a new high output one.

Left door is repainted. Hood is ready for burial in 2K primer. And some of the fiddly bits are taken care of like mounting the tach, hooking up oil pressure gauges and vacuum gauge. Pulled the heater box to see where the leak was and all that trouble was for heater hoses that are too big for the core. Standard is 3/4" in, 5/8" out but the core is set up for 5/8" in and 1/2" out. They wouldn't clamp down tight enough to seal and there was my leak. So I'll run down to the hardware store later Sunday and pick up a new intake fitting and hopefully some 1/2" heater hose. Meanwhile a fan is in the car drying out the carpet and the firewall insulation pad got soaked by the garden hose and also has a fan on it. Hopefully tomorrow I can get all that back together.

So how about some engine **** for those so inclined?

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For those who haven't binged this whole episode I got the car without motor and transmission. The original motor was long gone before I met the car and the last owner/operator sold the drivetrain that was in it before selling the shell. So some 35 years after I got the car I found this motor on Craigslist, some 45 minutes from my house and with the advert on it's last day. "Someone from Denver was supposed to drive up to look at it and never showed" and he was going to let the ad expire.

1970 Duster 340. The original owner bought the car new and wrecked it before he got 2,000 miles on it. Since insurance wasn't a mandatory thing back in the day he parked the wreck in his back yard and fumed over the loss. A couple years later (as I recall) the guy I bought it from bought the motor for a Challenger project he wanted to do someday. He tore the motor down and set it aside. Someday came and went and when he retired from auto body he had '66 Chevelle and '72 Camaro project cars in primer and metal work and just didn't see that Challenger project happening, so the motor became part of my '72 Duster project. Missing intake, cam, exhaust and the oil filter adapter. 10.5:1, 2.02. $1250.

The block went to a now defunct machine shop in Bozeman where they cleaned, magnafluxed and pressure tested the block for cracks, line bored the main & cam journals, pressed in new cam bearings and checked and rebuilt the rods. The crank had to be turned .010 under to lose the rust pits, the deck was milled .005 for pits around the coolant channels and to my disappointment the bores had to be taken .030 over. There was no ridge on the cylinder walls but the rust pitting was an issue and he found what he believed was a scratch from a broken ring that sealed the deal. I was hoping for maybe a .010 over to have material for a possible rebore down the road but truth is I probably won't live long enough to see the need for that anyway. By time I was ready for the heads the Bozeman shop closed so they went to a shop in Kalispell. He cleaned & tested for cracks, replaced exhaust valves and springs and set the heads up for unleaded fuel as they were still set up for 1970.

So going roughly from top to bottom: Edelbrock RPM air gap 7576 intake with recommended AVS2 650cfm carb (keep it streetable). TTI shorty headers. Elgin E1223P cam (441 lift, Intake Duration: 276°, Exhaust Duration: 288°, etc). Edelbrock RPM series fuel pump (fuel system is all 1/2" and this pump feeds that). Tuff Stuff 100 amp alternator. .030 over flat top pistons (as original) and .039 head gaskets. DC valve covers (retromod). And, a windage tray because it didn't come with one.

And I think that's it. Pardon the mess-again, fixing heater hose issues and of course antifreeze got everywhere. Still need; fan shroud and a low profile air filter. And when all the bugs are worked out the last bits of wire harness get dressed up.

So if all goes well the hood gets primed tomorrow and the heater box reinstalled. Next week I should be able to hang doors. Of all that's left to do this one is the least appealing. I'm not new to hanging doors while flying solo but even stripped out shells are a handful to hang without damaging paint and I'm not young anymore.

Meanwhile, I ordered the stripe kit Friday :thumbsup:
 
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Hood is painted, buffed and on:

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Had a bit of trouble with water in the lines while spraying clear-the filter kept it from spraying out with the clearcoat but the worn out air connection between the hose and gun splattered nasty water all over the second coat and of course, it fisheyed. Bad. Bad enough to resand and respray clear (after replacing the air connection parts). I've gone through 3 different water traps on my compressor and this isn't a particularly humid environment here (it's 50% as I type this) but after living in Wisconsin as long as I did I still didn't have the issues I have here.

Fortunately I'm almost done spraying paint. The fenders got their turn Sunday:

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Gettin' real close. All that's left to paint is the valance and the header piece under the front of the hood (holds the latch and spring). And since painting the fenders went better than expected I also wrapped up the exhaust work too.
 
41 years Saturday and still haven't driven it (beyond this point, outside the apartment building I live in) but it's getting so close. Left side door and fender are aligned as best they'll get and the door glass is in. Took it out to clean the shop and turn it around to finish up the right side. Really want to get that right door glass in so I can give this a bath and finish up the buffing.

Not going to make it this summer obviously but I may still get to take it for a shakedown cruise before the snow starts flying here.

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I've told my family this is my coffin so you'll have to check with them and see if they actually do it after I'm gone :p
 
Finally got the door glass in, got the fenders on and got it outside for a bath:

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Some bugs to work out (of course). The center vertical support for the grille surround is too short. The bottom cracked and I lined up the cracks when I welded it together thinking that was where it needed to go. Nope. I'll pull it off and stretch it out or maybe even replace it. The left door glass has to move back a bit as it leaks. And the back window leaks :BangHead:
Didn't see that one coming. I suspect some of the cloth headliner is in the gasket fold and I'll have to cut it out.

The last of the buffing still has to be done-door tops and any other places I missed. But since it's always something I got hit with a kidney infection last weekend so I just washed it and ran it straight back into the shop. If all's well next weekend I'll get it out in the sun and give it a solid inspection for missed spots. Then it'll be ready for stripes, which will probably be my favorite part.
 
Yeah car looks awesome. Every project I do once it done takes a lot of extra time to work all the loose ends problems out. But eventually you can get them problem free where everything is fixed
 
The whole plan for this was to build the car I wanted in high school which puts the time frame around 1980. For the money I spent I certainly could've gone with modern suspension and drivetrain but that loses that character of a period car. It's far from refined but I like it like that :)

The hope was to have it on the road this summer so since that's technically passed I get all winter to work out bugs (there are some under the dash too) and wrap up those loose ends (rear suspension needs some work) so I can hit the road next summer relatively worry free.
 

Since you mention back story I talked to Bob a few weeks ago-the first time in a couple decades. Sister was at an event he was at as well and she gave him the phone. Funny how old friends just pick up where they left out 'cause the first thing he said was "got that car done yet?" :poke: Told him I'll see him next summer with it. He left performance cars behind for competitive truck pulling so he's still all about the horsepower.

Meanwhile, teaser shot:

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Before pic, really. There wasn't much sun out this weekend to get a good look for spots that still need to be buffed so I started in on reconditioning the grill. It's one of the relatively few original parts for the car and since the option is quite expensive (and I have all winter) I'm saving this one.

It'll take the time too. First off, only 1 of the 4 mounting tabs on top survived:

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I did salvage a handful of tabs off of busted up standard grills back in the day so I'll graft three of them in where they belong. The plastic where the headlight surrounds mount to the grill are pretty much destroyed:

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The bottom trim piece still had the broken parts stuck to it so I can piece that together but I'll have to find some photos showing how the top is supposed to be set up as they are completely gone.

It also looks like a previous owner (wonder who...) took a torch to something on the firewall and melted the grill on the backside in the same place on both sides:

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One side isn't terrible and should clean up but the other side actually shows from the front:

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Seven of the total of eight mount tabs on the turn signal lenses are broke off. Fortunately still fixed to the car by the screws but beyond that the lenses are in decent shape. I'll likely try to save them.

There's also a hefty crack in it. Looks like I may have hit it with JB Weld way back when but of course it didn't hold:

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I'll mix up a little ABS plastic solvent and bond it together for real.

Other than that, some expected storage rash from being kicked around for 41 years:

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After the pics I took it apart and started sanding this out with 180. Cleaned right up. Not perfect, but a 3 footer.
 
It'll be a bear to mask when the time comes but Mopar set the bar pretty low:


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And the silver/argent only covers about 70% of the places it's supposed to. The rest is just gray plastic.
 
A shark's tooth Grill is one of the hardest grills to restore I think it has about 170 to 200 little black shutters and those will have to be covered with a piece of tape it's easier to airbrush one but you will have 18 to 24 hours tied up and restoration
 
1970 dart Grill is not a walk in the park either 71 Dart Grill is a lot easier but 70 has a two-tone verticals black/silver
 
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