1973 Duster with make over

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I painted the rest of the body parts this last weekend.

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Just so I am clear, when you changed directions and went back to the stock firewall I am guessing that means you also dumped the idea of using the Ram Heat/AC box. Correct?

I've been saving one of those boxes to do something similar, but with the hope that I can re-route the AC and heater hose connections out the stock holes so I don't have to cut my firewall. My biggest concern is how close the box gets to the throttle pedal. There are at least 2 other builds here that have use the Ram box, but so far no pictures of how it all interfaces at that location.

Sweet car, keep it up!
 
Just so I am clear, when you changed directions and went back to the stock firewall I am guessing that means you also dumped the idea of using the Ram Heat/AC box. Correct?

I've been saving one of those boxes to do something similar, but with the hope that I can re-route the AC and heater hose connections out the stock holes so I don't have to cut my firewall. My biggest concern is how close the box gets to the throttle pedal. There are at least 2 other builds here that have use the Ram box, but so far no pictures of how it all interfaces at that location.

Sweet car, keep it up!
Yes sir, I dumped the ram airbox. I don't recommend using one on a stock firewall if your after aesthetics. I have a factory a/c box and wiring, but I couldn't find a replacement a/c firewall. I ended up installing a non a/c firewall. I plan to purchase the Classic Auto Air kit. I will create an adapter that goes from the factory ram a/c compressor to the new lines.
 
I started mocking up the exhaust today, but I needed to stop until i acquire some hangers. I decided to ditch the 3 bolt header flanges and use V-bands. I am putting the mufflers at the rear, most likely using borla xs mufflers. I also installed a cheapie ebay radiator. I finished up the rear brakes lines last night.

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Well i got the car started up today. It runs great. I have to bleed the brakes, adjust the rear suspension, and loom the harness wires. then it gets a low speed test drive in parking lot. I was able to modify the stock /6 auto shift linkage to fit the 46rh. I also included photos of the od and lockup sensor being fed fluid by a braided line.

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I brought the duster out to my parking lot and did a nice little burnout. It didn't instantly break, so that is a good sign. Now it’s time to wet sand and add more clear for a deap shine.

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Well the duster took a step back and then back forward. Turns out the single paint didn't catalyze properly. I took off the paint, re-primed, and finish sanded it. Then dropped it off at a guys shop for the base and clear. I just didn't have time to redo the paint myself. I restarted the final assembly and this is where I am at now.

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Great looking build. What size fuel cell is that? I like how you recessed it into the floor. Do you have any photos of how it's mounted by chance?
 
the 'new' new paint looks great, much more depth of shine. :thumbsup:
ant reson you mounted the rear coilovers so close together? it's normally best to get them as far apart as possible to help reduce body roll.
neil.
 
Great looking build. What size fuel cell is that? I like how you recessed it into the floor. Do you have any photos of how it's mounted by chance?

I don’t remember the exact size, but it was a cheap Summit or Jegs one. I removed the bottom bungs. There is a frame that holds a 16g box I weldup. The tank sits in the box on a rubber mat and I have straps that go over the top of the tank.

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the 'new' new paint looks great, much more depth of shine. :thumbsup:
ant reson you mounted the rear coilovers so close together? it's normally best to get them as far apart as possible to help reduce body roll.
neil.
I’m certain wider is better, but I built the suspension almost 13 years ago. In the testing I had done body roll isn’t noticeable. Definitely better than all the stock A bodies I have owned. I can easily widen the shock mounts or add a anti-roll bar if it ever becomes and issue.
 
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