you might want to re-think that....the driveshaft needs to be in the center of the tunnel.
a lot easier to make right now than later....but ,obviously, your call
1973 Duster with make over
- Thread starter kaharshs
- Start date
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you might want to re-think that....the driveshaft needs to be in the center of the tunnel.
a lot easier to make right now than later....but ,obviously, your call
kaharshs
Well-Known Member
Why do you say it needs to be in the center of the tunnel? Are you thinking it will hit? I dont see that happening looking at it. Or did you mean the output of trans and input of axle need to be inline? I checked it out and it wont hit but if it does i will use my power roller at work and make a new tunnel.
i think your driveshaft will hit as your suspension goes up and down.....and check out your seat belt bolts going into the tunnel. doesn't look to big a deal to put the correct pinion offset in now....once again ....your call
guess it might be a little tougher than knockin off the welds.....you could end up a little lopsided
guess it might be a little tougher than knockin off the welds.....you could end up a little lopsided
kaharshs
Well-Known Member
I double checked the tunnel and the drive shaft will hit my cross member in the rear before it touches anything else. The thing that has me confused about what your saying is pinion offset needing to be changed and it being easy. My axle housing end flanges are equal distance from the center line of the car. The 4 link mounts on the axle housing are equal distances from the axle center line not the yoke and the frame mounts for the links are equal distance from the cars center line. That makes my axle housing square in the car. The pinion is offset to the axle housing center line making the yoke set around 1.5 inches toward the driver side of the car. It is normal in cars and trucks the yoke not being on center line of the vehicle. Were you thinking my yoke was perfectly centered in the axle housing?
I am enjoying your build. I am lurking in a few peoples build threads, and been checking back on yours over the last while.
How much Power you intending to throw at that Rear Setup?
Good Work so far....
:happy1:
How much Power you intending to throw at that Rear Setup?
Good Work so far....
:happy1:
kaharshs
Well-Known Member
I haven't even thought about a motor yet. I'm gonna get the rear suspension buttoned up and the body panels welded back in. then tackle the body work. Im going to keep the slant 6 in it running to keep if mobile. I will most likely put a small blocked in it with the normal speed parts. I have been kicking around the idea of a v6 pentastar, but the tranny options are killing that idea unless someone comes up with adapter.
your build ..your call
I would be more concerned with getting the pinion centered in the tunnel rather than the housing axles being equal length/ect. But that's just me.
I NOW realize you have already narrowed your housing/axles and might be "welded" to where you have located it and simply cannot just knock off the tabs and move it over.
good luck with the build....it will be a good one to follow
kaharshs
Well-Known Member
Im always learning and like getting new info on things i would like to know more about. I feel you have a lot of knowledge im just not understanding why your sugesting what you are. So you say the pinion Should be centered in the tunnel. What will happen if not? I know the driveshaft wont hit anything through the suspension travel unless my suspension compresses tons, but in that case It will hit my rear crossmember first. I have checked mutliple times. Are you then suggesting it will cause vibration or some other erratic behavior? You just keep saying you would center it with no explanation or its my choice. Would you center it just for looks and it being in the middle of the tunnel because you like it like that or do you have information it would could a drivetrain or handling issue?
I would center it because the design/reason for the tunnel is to utilize the full curve of the trans tunnel for driveshaft travel....and it makes sense.
will it work with an offset....probably....but I have never seen it done that way....maybe a first??
and why do it?...what is the advantage, other than that is how it is already done?
kaharshs
Well-Known Member
Ok thanks for the response i was thinking nothing was wrong with this also. I was gonna say im not the first person to use a ford 8.8 exployer shortened the exact same way in a abody. They had no problems at all either. You scared me into thinkig i was wrong after all the research i had done. You might change how you comment on peoples stuff though, because you made it sound like something mechanically was wrong with my design even though i told you it wouldnt hit the tunnel multiple times and had no loss in driveshaft movement. That means that nothing is wrong other than it being not being perfectly centered down the tunnel.
I understand...please forgive me....i'm a little new
kaharshs
Well-Known Member
Hahah, if anyones new here it me the greenhorn. I see what you have done and could learn from you. My bluntness sometimes does makes me come off as a ***. I was only trying to get to the bottom of this to learn and improve in my skills. This is my first 4 link bit been doing metal fab for 10 years now. Sorry for being a ***.
no sweat...I'm grinnin
I do see your point...
It's great BSin hot rods with you....and I didn't mean to come off as the expert....just a couple of guys bench racin'...that's all
Mopar to ya'
Denny
I do see your point...
It's great BSin hot rods with you....and I didn't mean to come off as the expert....just a couple of guys bench racin'...that's all
Mopar to ya'
Denny
kaharshs
Well-Known Member
Got my coilover mounts tacked in today. I also got the axle brackets finish welded. I just need to use my alignment bar and see if the housing needs straightened. I started welding my frame mounts but i keep blowing the damn breaker. I think its time to upgrade my welder to a 220 volt so i can use the plug i have for my tig.
kaharshs
Well-Known Member
I bought a miller 211 today and im selling my miller 140 to a friend. Now i just have to play the waiting came on getting it shipped to me.
very nice build. should hookup real good when your done. may need a dana 60 though. depends how much power your going to build. the old sayin is you will allways want to go faster , so its cheaper to git ur done now. just sayin
would you happen to have any more pictures of your quarter panel install? if so could you post them please : ) im going to be attempting this soon and have been looking for any info i can get on the installation process
Judge Mills
1971 Plymouth Duster
Nice build! I also have an 8.8, but just with springs 
kaharshs
Well-Known Member
I straightened the rear this weekend. It was about 3/16 off on each side just from welding the brackets on. I assembled it with the stock parts just to get my car rolling again. It will need new carrier bearings before i actually start driving it, but no sense in wasting the money yet. Also for how much power I plan to run, well i havent decided but no more than 500 hp. Next on the list it to build a welding cart for my new welder on the way. When I get that I need to finish welding my frame and coilover mounts in. Then prime the frame and get to installing the floor pans and wheel tubs. I am also going to order a roll cage, but im not sure on which one to order.
kaharshs
Well-Known Member
I got my miller 211 in. I bent up a welding cart from 16 gauge galvanized and riveted it together. Its actually a copy of the harbor freight one. I welded up the frame and bolted everything in to see if it still fits. Finally its supporting itself with not jacks. Now im gonna prime the bare metal and start installing floor pans.
kaharshs
Well-Known Member
I sanded the rails i put in and the bottom of the floor pans this sunday. Then I laid some a sealer coat to stop them from rusting. Im gonna get the car setting back on the ground and then start to lay floor pans in as i build them. Does anyone have suggestions on a fuel tank/cell that i should use?
kaharshs
Well-Known Member
Well started on my trunk floor extension. I got the basic pattern cut out and used the bead roller at my house to start the beads. I just need to shrink them in a couple spots and rolls some more beads and they will be ready to install. Here are a couple pictures of my work where i went to use the brake to bend them.
kaharshs
Well-Known Member
Well i got both panels bent and shrunk to the arch of the wheel wells. Now i just need to trim them and get the beads rolled in where the trunk floor is. Hopefully get time to do that this week working around my night classes that start.
kaharshs
Well-Known Member
Got my wheel tubs tacked together. I don't want to rtv the wheel tubs to the quarter panel like most people do. Im gonna bend up a flange that connects to the quarterpanel opening and connect it to the wheel tub. Hopefully it works and if not i will just rtv them.
kaharshs
Well-Known Member
Well got the wheel wells test fitted and trimmed. Got them and the trunk floor extension primed. Now I just need to install them next weekend. I need to buy some metal for the fuel cell cage and also buy a fuel cell.
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