340 question

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Well the search goes on. We were too fare apart and then shipping. I'll wait and keep my eyes open , but thank you to all for your input its all good info. The block was a good block , clean inside none molested
stock.



Hang on until I get back. I'm leaving in the AM to go to PDX for a doctors appointment on Thursday, spend some time with my parents and make sure they aren't going off the rails and then I have to run to Salem and help a friend. I'm hoping to be back home by a week from Thursday. I have a block here, and some Pistons everyone hates and probably some rods. Cranks...I have to look.

Let me know what you need or want. If I don't have it, I can usually scrounge it up.
 
Hang on until I get back. I'm leaving in the AM to go to PDX for a doctors appointment on Thursday, spend some time with my parents and make sure they aren't going off the rails and then I have to run to Salem and help a friend. I'm hoping to be back home by a week from Thursday. I have a block here, and some Pistons everyone hates and probably some rods. Cranks...I have to look.

Let me know what you need or want. If I don't have it, I can usually scrounge it up.
OK sounds good . PM me when you get back. We'll go from there.
 
right rumble
but cheap rollers or without a B3 type geometry fixer are a waste of money
do it right

So everybody whose built a 340 in the past with stock or cheap rockers and didn't use the B3 system just wasted their money? Do you know how stupid that sounds? You know how many records were made and broken before B3 even came about? And with stock or cheap rockers? No, you probably don't. Neither do I, but it's a lot.
 
I know how valve guides wear with bad geometry, push rods rub, can't run large diameter pushrods - which really help
roller rockers do not help most with the size cams -under 550 lift that are buying them
spend your money on something else
 
Yes and no. While a cast crank is a down grade, there still plenty strong. The low compression pistons are as you say, easily changed out. Even so, a set of closed chambered heads will raise the ratio to a reasonable level. You'll need to know exactly where the piston sits, the head gasket dimensions, valve relief amount and head chamber cc amount for the calculators. Getting to a 9.0-1 should be easy enough. More is better. But lets see where you end up first. At 9.0-1, thats enough for most street cams to perform vcery well.

Who was the guy with an OE 360 short block & W2 heads? Running low 12's IIRC? It is a great and cheap combo. He invested in heads, cam and valve train. BAMM baby!
As one of my engine shop owners sez.."when is the last time you saw a Mopar crank break....never".
.and he's a Chevy guy.
 
He can come by my house for a broken one.
:lol:

Seriously, that’s all I have run in a long time.
As I said, plenty strong.
:thumbsup:
 
Richard, I would not pay "extra" just because it's a 340. In many ways, for "non restore" and other reasons, a 360 is more bang for the buck.
 
I know how valve guides wear with bad geometry, push rods rub, can't run large diameter pushrods - which really help
roller rockers do not help most with the size cams -under 550 lift that are buying them
spend your money on something else

More beer maybe.
 
Richard, I would not pay "extra" just because it's a 340. In many ways, for "non restore" and other reasons, a 360 is more bang for the buck.
Just doing the research Del. Ive seen the prices on 340's IMO over priced
but it fallows the theme of the build.
There are plenty of 360's around here
for reasonable prices if I can't settle on a 340.
 
Just doing the research Del. Ive seen the prices on 340's IMO over priced
but it fallows the theme of the build.
There are plenty of 360's around here
for reasonable prices if I can't settle on a 340.
'Theme of the build' is understandable. And besides, when you mention those 3 magic numbers '340', a lot of car nuts start slobbering. My son and I went for a 340 for the same type of reason... and the reactions to the word '340' are hard to explain.. but it is like magic to some folks.
 
'Theme of the build' is understandable. And besides, when you mention those 3 magic numbers '340', a lot of car nuts start slobbering. My son and I went for a 340 for the same type of reason... and the reactions to the word '340' are hard to explain.. but it is like magic to some folks.

Then run a 360 and tell everybody it's a 340... Both engines look the same from the top when they are in the car... They won't know any better...
 
Then run a 360 and tell everybody it's a 340... Both engines look the same from the top when they are in the car... They won't know any better...
LOL.... I just can't go that far. No matter that the only thing '340' in it is the block and the oil pump.....:D
 
LOL.... I just can't go that far. No matter that the only thing '340' in it is the block and the oil pump.....:D


Around here, the street racers will never tell you what they have under the hood... You have to race them to find out...

I saw a guy at Dukes Drive In back in the day with dual quads sticking out of the hood of a Duster, he would not open it... A guy asked him what engine was in it, and he said, "Small Block"... The hood was cut real tight around the intake and carbs, but when I looked through the small 'cracks', I could tell it was the intake bolt pattern of a 426 Hemi... :wtf:

If you're gonna lie, at least make it believable... :rolleyes:

However if they don't know what to look for, it's easy to BS them... :bs_flag:
 
The large bore of the 340 makes it an excellent engine for a performance build. Perfect for big valve high horsepower engines. Those big bores are one reason the 340's punched way above their weight back when they were new.
 
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Just doing the research Del. Ive seen the prices on 340's IMO over priced
but it fallows the theme of the build.
There are plenty of 360's around here
for reasonable prices if I can't settle on a 340.



I've got options for you and I won't cornhole you.
 
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