Woods74
Broke Senior
I feel for the folks trying to build muscle over seas, that cost has to suck.
360 crank in a 318 block
- Thread starter WestRidge
- Start date
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moper
Well-Known Member
Looks good - I would lose that poetentially explosive flex fan though. Seen too many of those come apart with bad consequences.
Ok I'll keep that in mind. What kind of coolingfan do you prefere/recommend and do you have any opinion about spark plugs?
moper
Well-Known Member
I persoanlly like the factory type clutch fans, but if you don;t have room any standard factory fan will work. The problem with the flex fanes is the blades fatigue (meatl flexing back and forth will do that) and then they fracture around the rivets. If a blade comes off it can have enough eneergy to punch through the hood, or radiator, or hoses and belts...
On the plugs - I usually run Autolites as I have for years, or NGK race plugs if it's something special. I always found Autolites easier to read. I can;t stand Bosch - so I'd say anything but Bosch...lol.
On the plugs - I usually run Autolites as I have for years, or NGK race plugs if it's something special. I always found Autolites easier to read. I can;t stand Bosch - so I'd say anything but Bosch...lol.
What performance limitations?? I didn't read anywhere where the OP said what the intended use for the motor/car was!! If he's building an all out race car, maybe the 318 isn't the hot ticket, but if he's going to enjoy the car on the street and just do a little stoplighting and hot dogging, then he will probably be perfectly happy with the gains he can make from the 318!
This is why I never post my motor builds here, too many personal opinions based on what the poster wants out of a motor, and not enough information for what the OP is expecting from his build! Geof
Well yes I'm not going to the dragracing track only as you said enjoy the car on the street...
I'm a rookie when talking about motor builds but I have during this trip discovered just this that you talking about. A 318 have the same basic specs as a 340 it's just the block and bore that differs. So if you bore a 318 block to the 340's bore size (this can be done if the block is fresh a I know of at least one here in sweden who have done that) and use the 340 stuff, x-heads etc then I should get a performace 340?! Or is there some limitations build in the block itself? I have a bit trouble to see why the 318 has so "bad reputation" when coming to get performace out from it.
67 Power Wagon
Hemi Pawr or BUST!
Reading along here a bit and in the first couple replies, I was going to say that the 360 crank would wind up putting the pistons out the hole in the top as to make the stroke longer.... I was always under the impression you wanted to shorten the stroke for higher RPMS not lengthen it? BUT then here goes that round and round thing.....IF you lengthen the stroke, this gains CID to the block, SO what would that make the block? It WAS 318.... what would the stroke become with the 360 crank? Then to turn the journals down to fit the 318 block, is that just the mains or ALL of them?
I mean really, you want performance? don't want to build a 360, got a 318, why not try a 340 instead? THAT was Mopars performance small block back in the day, right?
At this point, I say is the machine work worth it? OR would it be better/cheaper to just buy a 318 stroker crank?
I mean really, you want performance? don't want to build a 360, got a 318, why not try a 340 instead? THAT was Mopars performance small block back in the day, right?
At this point, I say is the machine work worth it? OR would it be better/cheaper to just buy a 318 stroker crank?
360 crank in a 318=349. The OP is in Sweden, and I don't think parts and engines are as readily available there as they are here.
Carman340
Well-Known Member
On another note...why not use the 318 block and go
With a 4.00 stroke crank? It's got the same size journals He (you) could use the stock rods and get
Lower pistons or get 6.123 h- beam rods and flat top pistons with a dish. Heads could be
360 or 340 j heads with the 1.88 intake valves. Bored. 030 over would be
390 cubes. I had one with stock 318rods and custom DIamond forged pistons and the dyno said 431 hp and 454 ftlbs torque with no accessories. It had a cast iron factory 4bbl intake with a thermoquad.
HAD is the opperative word.
With a 4.00 stroke crank? It's got the same size journals He (you) could use the stock rods and get
Lower pistons or get 6.123 h- beam rods and flat top pistons with a dish. Heads could be
360 or 340 j heads with the 1.88 intake valves. Bored. 030 over would be
390 cubes. I had one with stock 318rods and custom DIamond forged pistons and the dyno said 431 hp and 454 ftlbs torque with no accessories. It had a cast iron factory 4bbl intake with a thermoquad.
HAD is the opperative word.
Hello A-body friends,
I have to add some info in this old thread about my engine build we discussed earlier here. I sold my car with the 318 build for about 2 years ago.
I find out in a local FB A-body group that the new owner have put the car on a dyno. The setup are pretty much the same as when I sold it but with changed to a airgap rpm intake with 750 Edelbrock.
The result reads 318 HP at 5846 rpm with 423 Nm torque At 4714 rpm, rear wheel power.
My car when I owned it, the new owner have not changed anything to the look....
Dodge Dart GT (1964)
I have to add some info in this old thread about my engine build we discussed earlier here. I sold my car with the 318 build for about 2 years ago.
I find out in a local FB A-body group that the new owner have put the car on a dyno. The setup are pretty much the same as when I sold it but with changed to a airgap rpm intake with 750 Edelbrock.
The result reads 318 HP at 5846 rpm with 423 Nm torque At 4714 rpm, rear wheel power.
My car when I owned it, the new owner have not changed anything to the look....
Dodge Dart GT (1964)
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