360 magnum or 440??

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dingo77

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ok guys and gals here is my delema at hand. im going to be building a stroker motor for the dart the question is should i give up the idea of building a stroked magnum 360 and move on to going with a 440 (stroked ofcourse)? i know there are far more after market parts avail for a 440 and not so much for a magnum. should i sell my magnum block and 904 tranny and go to a 440 on stay with the small block? thanks peeps. joe
 
How much of a street car do you intend this to be? Reason I ask is IMO a stroker big-block A-body would be a bit dicey on the street. Feather-foot for sure, especially in any inclement weather.
 
personal preference. more cubes from the big block. and there really isn't anything like driving a big block a-body.
 
Stroke the smallblock,and laugh at big blocks:-D:-D..i do:-D:-D
 
as for ponys i was shooting for in the neirborhood of 500 or more but keeping it on pump gas. wich is do able with the 360. but far easyer with a 440 to get that and off into the 600+ range.
 
as for ponys i was shooting for in the neirborhood of 500 or more but keeping it on pump gas. wich is do able with the 360. but far easyer with a 440 to get that and off into the 600+ range.
Nice SB stroker. 440 is pretty heavy. Strokers can make big power these days/BBlocks have the hood appeal factor though. When the time comes I am going with the SB. There is a guy on here (forget his name) that is in the low 10s with my car with a 410 stroker at GBend MotorPlex......I was sold right there.
 
I thought 500 hp was about the limit of a stock blocked SB. You have to remember that head bolting isn't as good as a big block either. Are these 10 second guys running R3 blocks? I know at least one guy around here is.
 
the main reason im contemplating going to a 440 is parts availability and options. with the magnum motors you dont get as vast a range in parts. eye candy and big cubes aside (though that is not a bad thing).
 
the main reason im contemplating going to a 440 is parts availability and options. with the magnum motors you dont get as vast a range in parts. eye candy and big cubes aside (though that is not a bad thing).

Like what parts? Sure there are only a couple intake manifolds out there for the Magnum-specific bolt angle but other than that they share everything with the LA small-blocks which are pretty common. Not to mention they were produced over 20 years longer than the big blocks.
 
I agree, big block torque is just too cool! And with something like a 440 Source kit its so easy to make power. Yes they are heavier, but put on an aluminum water pump and housing, intake of course, maybe heads too. Hell, I'd just get some fat torsion bars and deal with the extra weight. But I LOVE my 440's and strokers!
 
If you go with the 440 and use headers expect there to be an extremely high frig factor. The best fitting out of the box are the schumaker tri's which are not particularly suited for a high horse, high rpm motor and I believe cost around 600. TII are said to be well fitted but I have known guys that did a lot of swearing during their install, I believe they are around 900. If you are not going to be running street slicks, expect to have to figure on getting the fattest tires as possible up under the rear along with other suspension upgrades. If you are looking for eye candy go for the big block, if you are wanting sleeper do a 360 to 408 stroker and pay a hell of a lot less for headers and break parts less often. Parts limitations on the magnum are on the intake as you can use LA valve covers on the magnum. Also if you want to use greater than a 525 lift cam on the magnum, you will have to machine the valve guides down to provide enough clearance. A flat tappet cam can be installed in the magnum but you must use AMC lifters, and will have to measure very carefully to get the correct length pushrod especially if the block or heads have been milled or use a head gasket that is a different compressed thickness than the factory one.
Unless you use the original serpentine belt set up, you are looking at buying a non-serpentine belt balancer($122.00) and using the original flexplate or a B and M neutral balance flexplate. I did a big block duster and it was great fun but I would highly recommend that the car have power steering and the biggest torsion bar you can get. My current project is a 70 Dart 360 magnum.
 
If its just for the street, I wouldn't waste the money on a stroker.

Just concentrate on making low end torque with good intake and a custom grind camshaft, and you'll never know the difference. Until you look at your bank balance....
 
I thought 500 hp was about the limit of a stock blocked SB. You have to remember that head bolting isn't as good as a big block either. Are these 10 second guys running R3 blocks? I know at least one guy around here is.

Man i know 3 guys with 360's that arent stroked an in the 10's,
an NONE of them are running r3 blocks.

How do you like them apples?
 
Man i know 3 guys with 360's that arent stroked an in the 10's,
an NONE of them are running r3 blocks.

How do you like them apples?

So they are making over 600hp at the crank with a stock block and the engine is surviving?
 
as for ponys i was shooting for in the neirborhood of 500 or more but keeping it on pump gas. wich is do able with the 360. but far easyer with a 440 to get that and off into the 600+ range.

That's about what I am shooting for... 525 hp, pump gas and streetable. Nothing exotic or too wild. I still might do the 400 stroker thing but already have a nice 440 block.
 
If its just for the street, I wouldn't waste the money on a stroker.

Just concentrate on making low end torque with good intake and a custom grind camshaft, and you'll never know the difference. Until you look at your bank balance....


lol thats not an option for me. ive built a handfull of motors that were either stock or pumped up just a little but never done a stroked or blown motor. so thats the direction im going for now. and then one day ill build me up a blown motor. gotta be able to say ive had the fun of all worlds lol.
 
So they are making over 600hp at the crank with a stock block and the engine is surviving?


Look, the guy i know has never had it on the dyno so we dont
know how much power it makes, best time is 10.7 at 124
thru the pipes an pump fuel.
Im guessin it would be at the minimum 500 hp simply due to being
1650 odd kilos.

It gets better.
Surviving?

400 plus quarter mile passes.
On that block an then some.

Theres another member on this forum that will
attest to this.
 
I think its funny when someone says go small block and break less parts. HUH???

For example my Coronet with a built 440 doesn't BREAK all of the time.
So the 8/34, 727's, 833's, u-joints, etc etc, that are installed in an a-body are weaker than the same parts installed in a b-body?

That comment just makes no sense.

Besides, you can just as easily break parts in a small block car if its abused.
(4 inch stoke 360)?
I'm not arguing for the bigblock side, I just think a 440 or big block stroker in an a-body would be cool to build.

Those 512 kits make some bitchin torque!
 
im still kicking the idea around price wise for me its going to be very close to build either stroker. though the though of a big block has always lingered in my mind from day one that i got the car. if i go this route what types of upgrades to the front suspention would be recomended? ive got the rear taken care of (8.75, 489 chunk with 3.91's mini tubbed SS springs and subframe connectors) unless there are other recomendations to what ive already done.
 
listen man. for your money you can save a couple hundred dollars doing the big block stroker and have it more mild and streetable with the almighty TORQUE:cheers: if you do 500 horse in a small block if you're doing an automatic it's gonna need a stall and if a 4 speed it's gonna jerk at low rpm's. i helped one of my dad's friends build a edelbrock 440 to go in his duster. with a mild cam normal compression and a very little stall the car goes like hell and is still able to run in traffic. 8)
 
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