383 Body manifolds in an A?

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68383GTS

68383GTS

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I am thinking of detuning my 383 a bit and putting it in my Formula S.I seem to remember seeing an A body with a 383 and B body manifolds on it.What modifications if any are needed to do this?What year manifolds?I figure B body manifold breather alittle more and are way cheaper.
I would like to keep the motor as is but 383.TTI's and a 4speed just don't go well together.I couldn't get the Zbar to fit.

Thanks,Jim
 
Have you thought about using a hydraulic clutch? Some of the guys are using them and seem to like them. It might allow you to use the TTI's.
 
Try over at bigblockdart.com. I know there was info on the manifolds. I believe TTI makes an offset bracket or something for the z-bar. I have CPPA headers on my low deck(I believe they were bought out by TTI)that fit with the stock z-bar. Big Block,4 spds and a-bodies are a blast!!!
 
you need a pair of the new TTi's that HemiDenny modifies for
low-deck A-body sticks. A thing of beauty!
 
B-body manifolds usually require shortening the outer sleeve on the steering column up to the firewall, BUT they also don't quite fit properly with the z-bar. We solved this by moving the z-bar rearward as far as it could go. We did have to massage the floor, but this allowed us to use the single ball-stud hole on the 440 bellhousing (1969 bell for the 143-tooth flywheel). It was a little easier with the 383 bell for the 130-tooth flywheel as that one had two ball-stud holes to bolt a bracket to. You also have to shorten the pedal rod and fork rod, but this makes a more stable arrangement. Try to retain the 1:1 lever of the bell crank (z-bar).
 
i picke up a 71 scamp with a 383 stuffed in it. turned out to be a 383 hp, and matching h.p manifolds out of a 67 c-body. there was no mods done at all. now i never tried to take these off with the engine in the car though.lol
 
Here is mine when it had the 440 with stock mannies, the 383 is about an inch narrower than the 440 so a lil' more than a half an inch room there on each side. SNUG FIT and it did burn the paint on the passender side inner fender with the 440.
 

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Jim...just finished a 383/Schumaker mounts/TTis/4-speed install on a '74 K frame.....
I changed the #7 header tube w/a $18.00 J bend....added 7/8" to the middle of the z-bar (big block assy from Brewers)...and made a 1/4" thick adapt bracket for the bellhousing mount that puts the inner ballstud in the proper location....one evening to figure it out....another to make/modify the pieces

fits great....keeps the clutch geometry same as stock....lots of room around torsion bars
 
HemiDenny said:
Jim...just finished a 383/Schumaker mounts/TTis/4-speed install on a '74 K frame.....
I changed the #7 header tube w/a $18.00 J bend....added 7/8" to the middle of the z-bar (big block assy from Brewers)...and made a 1/4" thick adapt bracket for the bellhousing mount that puts the inner ballstud in the proper location....one evening to figure it out....another to make/modify the pieces

fits great....keeps the clutch geometry same as stock....lots of room around torsion bars
Click to expand...

Denny's setup:

K-Frames1007-1.jpg

K-Frames_1_003.jpg

K-Frames1018-1.jpg

K-Frames1037-1.jpg
 
I`ve got a H code FS with a 4-speed. Bought the car without engine and tranny. The k-frame has been replaced at some during its life here in Sweden for a engine spoolmount k-frame, why I dont know.
I bought the tti A-body BB z-bar kit, however had to modify the z-bar to clear the headers and grind of some material from the bracket that attaches to the bellhousing. Non of this work were any kind of a big job. This combo works very well with the A-body tti headers without any interference issues. Had to use a ministarter though.
 
Denny what size bellhousing and flywheel are you using?I think part of my problem last time I tried this I had 143 tooth flywheel and a Lakewood bellhousing.


Thanks,Jim
 
The one pictured is a Chysler factory piece...I saw the part # on it yesterday and will post it tomarrow...but I think it is the same as the re-pro Brewer sells

I like the smaller 130 (?) tooth ring gear on the McCloud 10.95 flywheel /pressure plate / clutch package....almost 11"..but the smaller ring gear gives additional header tube clearance....I use it on my Hemi...but w/ the 8 bolt flywheel....no centrforce/dual friction stuff for my coffee getter..

you are right ...that Lakewood takes additional room
 
68383GTS said:
Denny what size bellhousing and flywheel are you using?I think part of my problem last time I tried this I had 143 tooth flywheel and a Lakewood bellhousing.


Thanks,Jim
Click to expand...

I run a 10.5" flywheel and a 23 spline 833. Both the 18 and 23 spline have the same weakness. 3rd gear from what I hear. With the 440 that was in my Cuda the clutch would slip in 3rd. I need the McCloud twin disc. Pricey at $899 on ebay.
 
I am still kicking it around TXDart.I think a small block stroker would be easier to work with.
 
340plot said:
i picke up a 71 scamp with a 383 stuffed in it. turned out to be a 383 hp, and matching h.p manifolds out of a 67 c-body. there was no mods done at all. now i never tried to take these off with the engine in the car though.lol
Click to expand...

No such thing as a 67 383 with HP manifolds from the factory. The only 67 HP manifolds were found in 440-equipped B-bodies (GTX, R/T, and Charger).

The manifolds pictured right above are 68-69 C-body HPs.
 
Jim Lusk said:
No such thing as a 67 383 with HP manifolds from the factory. The only 67 HP manifolds were found in 440-equipped B-bodies (GTX, R/T, and Charger).

The manifolds pictured right above are 68-69 C-body HPs.
Click to expand...

He might have seen a '67 casting date on the block and asumed it meant it was a '67, when it probably would have been used in a '68 application?
 
Jim Lusk said:
No such thing as a 67 383 with HP manifolds from the factory. The only 67 HP manifolds were found in 440-equipped B-bodies (GTX, R/T, and Charger).

The manifolds pictured right above are 68-69 C-body HPs.
Click to expand...

He might have seen a '67 casting date on the block and assumed it meant it was a '67, when it probably would have been used in a '68 application?

I've noticed the casting date is usually a year earlier than the car it was installed in.
 
Hi i have a 67 Dart with a 383 i am using a set of early 60 sixties C body manifolds they fit fine my problem is i cant get power steering with that set up. Would add a pick if you like
 
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]It's a known fact that B-body HP manifolds will work with the big blocks, with a few possible modifications.[/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Tom Swope, from Accurate LTD, was kind enough to send along the casting numbers, as well as the changes that may be needed....[/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Left side for B or RB, The steering shaft sleeve must be cut back to use these. [/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Also if used with a 4-speed, the z-bar ball/stud at the bell housing may need to be [/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]moved rearward to angle the z-bar for exhaust pipe clearance. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] # 2843992, #2951865[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Right side for B or RB, For RB use, an angle cut of 5 degrees at the head port [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]end of the manifold to tilt the flange end towards the oil pan will add extra fender [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]well clearance. The heat riser should be removed. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] # 2806900, # 2899879 [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Pictured below are the Hp's on a 383 '68 Dart, and farther down, on a '67 440/4-speed Dart GT[/SIZE][/FONT]
HPdside.jpg
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]In these three pics, you can see the general placement of the driver side manifold. Being up out of the way, they will work with power steering and brakes. Note there was even room for the homemade steering shaft extension for the manual box.[/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]It does come close to things at the rear, but pretty much fits in like it was made for it.[/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]The exception here is the outer sleeve of the steering column.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]You can see it was shortened up to the firewall for clearance, which means that these manifolds will NOT work with a column shift.[/SIZE][/FONT]
HPdsideshaft.jpg
HPdsideback.jpg
HPpside.jpg
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]On the passenger side, theres plenty of room all around. Plug access is typical a-body....#6 got an access hole drilled in the fender to make easier.[/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]I will say that the exhaust on this car was completely home-made using standard bends from the parts store. No special bends were needed to get the pipes down from the manifolds.[/SIZE][/FONT]
HPpsidefront.jpg
HPpsideback.jpg
HP440hp_dside1.JPG
HP440hp_dside3.JPG
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Now on the 440, things are a whole lot tighter.[/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]They work, but clearance is at a bare minimum as you can see. Heat could be a problem in this installation. Also beware that these cars are all very different from one another and where one has 1/4" of clearance, the next might have interference. When things are this tight, theres no way to say if it will work on all of them without some work.[/SIZE][/FONT]
HP440hp_dside2.JPG
HP440hp_pside.JPG
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Although the passenger side manifold gets alot closer to the fenderwell, it's also moved upwards, which helps to maintain a small amount of clearance.[/SIZE][/FONT] Pictured Below is the high-flow driver side manifold made by Accurate LTD. This manifold replaces the the OEM bigblock A-body unit and flows much better than the squeezed OEM casting.
HPaccuratenew440man.jpg


p
pixel
 
The previous post is "borrowed" from www.bigblockdart.com with the 440 pictures provided by ME. When you copy and paste something from another site you probably should note the source...........
 
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