$50 Craigslist 360 EXTREME budget rebuild??

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j par said:
I'm sorry 318willrun I appreciate all your advice I just needed a little clarification here to make my mind work correctly. for some reason (I remember you saying that could be the problem part my memory) saying that the gasket kit you're recommending had the thicker gasket? I don't see any breakdown of that kind of stuff on the website but you were staying here just recently that it's thinner not the normal 39 but 26 I think it was if I look back here. which takes 15 away plus the 40 = -.055 total? I'll mill the heads if I can and if I can afford it. But that would mean that it comes with a thinner than stock head gasket? Again I hope this doesn't come off smart *** sounding or anything else really want to make sure I get the right stuff according to the stuff you've used before.
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  • First let me say, Jburch is right that .060 is the rule of thumb for "max" milling on small block mopar heads. I don't go the limit, because if it ever needs to be cleaned up .010, I (or the next guy) will have plenty of meat to do that. I have gone .045 before.
  • 2nd, when I got my kit, the Fel pro head gaskets that's included are the 8553 head gasket. they are about .050 thick. Your factory tin head gaskets are around .020 compressed. So, the math is easy. You add .030 thickness from the head gaskets, but subtract .040 from the milling, you actually only netting about .010 - 015 thickness. If you went with the Fel pro 1008, you would gain another .012, but spend more money to get the 1008.
  • Yes, small block valve springs are interchangeable. HOWEVER, do the 360 heads have rotators???? If so, that changes things a little.....
  • Also keep in mind, the 318 heads can be a good option if you need to go that route, but I would certainly add about 25 bucks for porting stones and 8 hours of home porting :)
  • You can also home port the 360 heads. I've done this twice for 318's, without redoing the block. Really works! Mildly home ported 360 heads cut .040 is a real healthy head for a 318.
  • No need to apologize for anything. :thumbsup: And remember, I'm just an "opinion" from a hobbyist, not a professional :eek:
 
Some really good stuff getting added to this thread now. I'm most familiar with the 596 heads as these are the ones that are on my stroker now. A couple years ago I spent a lot of time on them doing my own port job, I'm sure I posted pictures of all that. That was a messy job that took all weekend and turned out well. Of course last year I took them into the shop and had 2.02 valves put in them and a couple more hours of porting. The very much like the idea of getting some valve stones. I have those extra 1.88 intake valves, but likely it will be exhaust needed if anything.
 
Don't forget driveline lengths are not the same between a TF and an 833.

What do you want for an intake? I have a 68 or 69 factory cast iron intake.

Still wanting that bumper.
 
that was calculated also it doesn't have the same slip slip yoke either. I'm going to try the swap meet in if I can get something around $125 as far as a manifold I'll be happy aluminum. And as far as the bumper goes it's already yours I just got to pick it up for my buddy on the 8th that Saturday. at the worse so it would be late that afternoon when I get back from Woodburn or Sunday at the Swap Meet. Anyways I got bigger fish to fry right here for a minute let me post on this next one and you can throw your two cents in on that
yellow rose said:
Don't forget driveline lengths are not the same between a TF and an 833.

What do you want for an intake? I have a 68 or 69 factory cast iron intake.

Still wanting that bumper.
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Okay first thing I did was start cleaning the block and knocking out the old freeze plugs and some of them were leaking already anyways "prest-o!" I found the previous owners overheating problems. Text the previous owner and told him to flush his radiator out real good he won't want none of that in is new Stroker. I've got the majority of the crud off the block then my plan will be to First seal the bottom so I can turn the block over and try and flush out some of the passages maybe even have to put the heads on first in the timing cover and start flushing the block out? I've got to get all this crud cleaned off the Pistons and I'm still trying not to get Crap on the mains and rods and stuff too.
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Okay time for Crossroads with these heads. I pulled the 360 heads apart did a little shot down the holes with carb cleaner. Not filling them up or anything just a good long shot in there to see what would happen. 4 intakes leaked pretty much right away and 2 exhaust leaked. But when I took everything apart it was pretty ugly. don't know, the valve seats didn't look all that great in a lot of them couple of them you could tell they didn't seat it all. All of the seals were crumbling. On the other hand although the 318 heads were very very carbon caked, when I did the test to them like hit the exhaust on one and the intakes on the other I didn't see anything coming out so? what to do?
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Well you know what to Do with them core plugs YUK.
You need to pull the teen head apart but i think it's going to be the quick fix.
Having a valve job done on the 360 head would get you there as well........Depending on how loose the guides are.
actually you can just slap on the teen head if there holding liquids...........But i still thing you need to have a decent valve job done on the valves and seat(which ever one you choose.
318 heads could be bolted right back one...........but i would spend some money at this step........
 
j par said:
Okay first thing I did was start cleaning the block and knocking out the old freeze plugs and some of them were leaking already anyways "prest-o!" I found the previous owners overheating problems. Text the previous owner and told him to flush his radiator out real good he won't want none of that in is new Stroker. I've got the majority of the crud off the block then my plan will be to First seal the bottom so I can turn the block over and try and flush out some of the passages maybe even have to put the heads on first in the timing cover and start flushing the block out? I've got to get all this crud cleaned off the Pistons and I'm still trying not to get Crap on the mains and rods and stuff too.
View attachment 1715032127 View attachment 1715032128
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This is why you knock all the plugs out and clean every thing.......this was the point I was trying to get across to you earlier......may or may have not cleaned it by just blowing garden hose down thru the deck of the block
 
Get a piece of 5/16 or 3/8 tubing and tap it to your garden hose. now you can probe from the from frees plug to the rear and every were between.
I used SS as that's what i had. but plain steel or even copper for that matter will work good. take a hammer and kinda flatten it out.
 
J par, are those heads in the picture both the 360 heads, right?
  • Also, I've cleaned blocks that looked like that with a pressure washer. It is messy, and I mean messy, but I've got them so clean that no matter what coolant hole you put the nozzle, it looked like you could drink the water.
  • I'm questioning if that motor was rebuilt 35k miles ago. they generally don't do that in 35k miles, even if it was over 15 years. If they bored it, they would have hot tanked it
  • Last, whatever heads you go with, make sure they are "up to the job". If they don't seat, there goes everything.... power, idle, vacuum, gas mileage, etc etc
 
Yeah those are the 360 heads both of them. I think if I was just going to clean things up and put it back on I would probably go with the 318 heads but if I spend a little money I'd rather do it on the 360 heads
318willrun said:
J par, are those heads in the picture both the 360 heads, right?
  • Also, I've cleaned blocks that looked like that with a pressure washer. It is messy, and I mean messy, but I've got them so clean that no matter what coolant hole you put the nozzle, it looked like you could drink the water.
  • I'm questioning if that motor was rebuilt 35k miles ago. they generally don't do that in 35k miles, even if it was over 15 years. If they bored it, they would have hot tanked it
  • Last, whatever heads you go with, make sure they are "up to the job". If they don't seat, there goes everything.... power, idle, vacuum, gas mileage, etc etc
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It's kind of hard now to flush things out with so much exposed.
I think as far as the block goes I would like to just focus on getting the inside cleaned out and Then get it semi sealed up and then give it another wash then flush out?
 
j par said:
It's kind of hard now to flush things out with so much exposed.
I think as far as the block goes I would like to just focus on getting the inside cleaned out and Then get it semi sealed up and then give it another wash then flush out?
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My opinion.... It won't hurt it a bit. My 41 year old 318 I now have in my Duster was "almost" as bad. I pressure washed it with the heads off so I could blow down every water jacket available. Back and forth, side to side. I rotated the motor on the engine stand also, but mostly did it in the upright position. Water doesn't want anything to do with oil/grease. It will bead up and run away. You'll get it dried up shortly after anyways, then hit the cylinders with some kind of spray oil... (penetrating oil)
 

Yes this is some of the dirty work I'd like to get done. I guess there couldn't be much that he get on the bearings or in the rings that I couldn't just blow out with some WD-40 or penetrating oil. I want to seal it all up once I get it blasted out and lubricated.
318willrun said:
My opinion.... It won't hurt it a bit. My 41 year old 318 I now have in my Duster was "almost" as bad. I pressure washed it with the heads off so I could blow down every water jacket available. Back and forth, side to side. I rotated the motor on the engine stand also, but mostly did it in the upright position. Water doesn't want anything to do with oil/grease. It will bead up and run away. You'll get it dried up shortly after anyways, then hit the cylinders with some kind of spray oil... (penetrating oil)
Click to expand...
 
j par said:
Exactly I might have to go with the better of the two evils here. I'm going to take the teen's apart real quick then report back in a half hour
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Or even if you had to hire the seats to be hit, then lap the valves in to the newly ground seats.... that would keep you on the cheap
 
A couple of observations, the felpro gasket kit will not come with the oil pump gasket, it does come with a new melling oil pump.
I have only found one source for the gasket, a guy in NJ or NY sells old hemi parts sells them, for a few bucks apiece and his shipping is reasonable. I have is information in my garage, if you need it.

Also that crud in the coolant passages is from running straight water, I suggest antifreeze mixed with deiodized water when you put it back together.
 
Well once again I switch the 318 heads up onto the bench and sprayed carb cleaner at the inside of the valves and nothing came running out real quick like on the 360 heads. As a matter of fact not much at all anywhere is what I recall, but I took what would think be the number 2 cylinder intake and exhaust out and more so the valve guides are loose and the intake seem to look as if it's been already once knurled? Sorry ran out of steam after one cylinder LOL
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