$50 Craigslist 360 EXTREME budget rebuild??

[Cudafever]

Yah i know, just trying to get a dye grinder into you hands.
Have you deside what cam you will be putting in the teen?

 

[318willrun]

The theory is that if I shave the 360 heads they'll be close to the compression the 318 heads currently have with bigger valves ?

correct on the compression, but you will have much larger ports and valves. I will take the flow every time....

 

[j par]

The short answer to that would be anything that is as cheap as possible. But I did put my Harbor Freight digital micrometer on it and got 1.27 on the bace Circle and 1.57 on the high-end. I got the numbers 1136 off of it. I was just about to look that up B297 on the Pistons and the head is the 675. 3.93 according to micrometer on the walls that look good. Major carbon build up in the combustion chamber. Rocker shaft seem to be tightened down a little too tight. But everything came out looking good, lifters and everything we're all oily and clean.

Yah i know, just trying to get a dye grinder into you hands.
Have you deside what cam you will be putting in the teen?

 

[j par]

FABO member hosehead was in town today from California visiting friends and buying mopar parts and stoped by, and approved of the scrappers Stroker. And the 318 build..THANK YOU ..

 

[j par]

What are the odds that I'm tearing apart a $50 motor and the actual day I pick to take apart the 360 that I've had for 2 years I see this $50 318 that is in way better condition and now I'm actually thinking of marrying the two using the 360 heads in the 318 ! LOL I mean how do I explain this?

 

[j par]

By the calculations it looks like a .450 or so lift which should be good I guess since everything is running fine. questions questions questions definitely would like to invest some time in trying to make the 360 heads work but will the springs from the 318 and retainers work to the 360 head? Ones in the 360 don't look as going. If I bring the Pistons to the top clean them real well and then flush out with what like WD-40 or something? so nothing gets near the rings? how far could I shave the heads? And maybe shave the intake manifold which is one of the only Parts I don't have. That will let me have something to look for at the big swap meet here in a couple weeks. I did dig out the 600 Edelbrock that I bought for $10 from a friend last year and I've been robbing parts off for my to Edelbrock on the Stroker so I'll have to buy some little pins and clips to replace what I've been robbing. It doesn't look like I'm going to get the opportunity to use my 273 rockers but that's fine?

 

[Abodybomber]

By the calculations it looks like a .450 or so lift which should be good I guess since everything is running fine. questions questions questions definitely would like to invest some time in trying to make the 360 heads work but will the springs from the 318 and retainers work to the 360 head? Ones in the 360 don't look as going. If I bring the Pistons to the top clean them real well and then flush out with what like WD-40 or something? so nothing gets near the rings? how far could I shave the heads? And maybe shave the intake manifold which is one of the only Parts I don't have. That will let me have something to look for at the big swap meet here in a couple weeks. I did dig out the 600 Edelbrock that I bought for $10 from a friend last year and I've been robbing parts off for my to Edelbrock on the Stroker so I'll have to buy some little pins and clips to replace what I've been robbing. It doesn't look like I'm going to get the opportunity to use my 273 rockers but that's fine? View attachment 1715031922View attachment 1715031923

Old axiom of hot rodding: ..." Make what you have, work...."
Great thread....

 

[j par]

Well the biggest question I'll be trying to answer this week will be how far I can mill the heads and if the 360 heads, I mean if the valves are good. I do have the set of used 188 valves that came out of my other 596 heads that are on the Stroker when I had the 2.02's put in. 318willrun was saying .040 off and the manifold fits fine. Would it be possible to mill the manifold down a bit lower and how does that affect everything. At what point should I start worrying about valve 2 piston clearance with the bigger valves?

 

[Cudafever]

Aren't the piston setting in the hole quite a bit, Valve to piston shouldn't be a problem. and was told vavle to syl wall was only a problem with 273s.
My math i did to day say the .040=8 cc and my X heads showed that a .080 you have made an open chamber head a closed chamber head. Head chamber bore is around 4.00"

 

[j par]

Oh yeah down in the hole for sure.

Aren't the piston setting in the hole quite a bit, Valve to piston shouldn't be a problem. and was told vavle to syl wall was only a problem with 273s.
My math i did to day say the .040=8 cc and my X heads showed that a .080 you have made an open chamber head a closed chamber head. Head chamber bore is around 4.00"

 

[j par]

Still the order of the day tomorrow is clean clean clean ...
must order gasket kit (will post when I do). Need to order enough for free shipping. Freeze plugs for sure. Need to make new have, have not list. Still need to find out if transmission cross member is interchangeable ? One in the morning... sleepy ...

 

[JBurch]

Well the biggest question I'll be trying to answer this week will be how far I can mill the heads and if the 360 heads, I mean if the valves are good. At what point should I start worrying about valve 2 piston clearance with the bigger valves?

I have heard of people going .100 mill on the heads...............carefully pour solvent down the ports, if nothing leaks out into the chamber, seats/guides are good.......think about it........if the guides are bad, the valve is not gonna hit the same spot twice in a row on the seat...... it will leak........Use Stoddard(sp?) solvent as it has no surface tension

If in doubt, just clay the piston/valve for clearance, that way you WILL KNOW, NO GUESSWORK, move along..........

 

[j par]

Coffee !

the second bearing from the rear end has a chunk of something embedded in it. Thats the worst part of that and no oiling gruve, but in general good shape. Almost don't want to clean the Pistons gaining point or two in compression with that much carbon LOL.

 

[j par]

See here you are telling me that people are giving me good information and I'm not listening or drinking the Kool-Aid LOL and your first comment is I heard of people doing something? I've heard of people trying to take a poop while running uphill. I mean really I'm supposed to go out and mill my heads because you heard somebody did it before Should work I mean when you think about that that's why I don't drink everybody's Kool-Aid. Then you go on to tell me to think about it? I don't think about stuff? again the condescending comment implying I'm stupid. Are you proof reading this are you trying to put me down ?
So I assume you're implying I might try cleaning everything up putting the cam back and setting the head back down and pre clay testing what I have so I know how much I can mill the heads down is what I would have thought of if I was a thinker. that's probably the advice I would give somebody. I've alluded to it before but now I'm going to flat out say it I very much appreciate your help but I can certainly do without the condescending comments that have to come along with it thank you very much again for your help and especially your experience not what you heard somebody had done.

I have heard of people going .100 mill on the heads...............carefully pour solvent down the ports, if nothing leaks out into the chamber, seats/guides are good.......think about it........if the guides are bad, the valve is not gonna hit the same spot twice in a row on the seat...... it will leak........Use Stoddard(sp?) solvent as it has no surface tension

If in doubt, just clay the piston/valve for clearance, that way you WILL KNOW, NO GUESSWORK, move along..........

 

[skep419]

To my knowledge the crossmembers should interchange. However there is a small 3/8 hole and a larger 1/2" (believe earlier pre 70 have the larger 1/2"). either way it should still work just use whatever hardware that fits. (Maybe check the pinion angle of the trans if they're different size holes.)

I'm just rambling questionable info hahahaha

 

[skep419]

Coffee !
View attachment 1715031943 View attachment 1715031944 the second bearing from the rear end has a chunk of something embedded in it. Thats the worst part of that and no oiling gruve, but in general good shape. Almost don't want to clean the Pistons gaining point or two in compression with that much carbon LOL.

I had cam bearings that looked very similar. The machine shop said it's very common on the Babbitt bearings I was using. They tend to flake off. Anywho I'd run em.

Mostly because the title is $50 Craigslist build.

 

[j par]

Yeah if I was going to go ahead and run those ones in the 360 that I was going to run, these are brand new compared to those LOL.

I had cam bearings that looked very similar. The machine shop said it's very common on the Babbitt bearings I was using. They tend to flake off. Anywho I'd run em.

Mostly because the title is $50 Craigslist build.

 

[318willrun]

• Ok, you mentioned you don't want the "heard of a guy" stories on what might work. This I have actually done myself, more than once..... and my experience has been that I've cut 360 heads .040 and have never cut the intake. Do you realize if you use the felpro head gaskets in the kit we discussed, your are adding about .025 in thickness from the factory??? So, your really only gaining about .015 even though you cut them .040, Savvy Mate?
• Clean up each valve and inspect them. Problem is, the exhaust take a beating. A lot of times I find it necessary to buy new exhaust valves. On the cheap 50 bucks for all 8. Intakes usually lap out nice. Pour rubbing alcohol in the ports, one at a time, and see if any leaks past the valves. If it does, then it's not sealed. Also, shine a flashlight into each port with the lights off, and see if you can see a sliver of light coming through the valves. No matter the rest of the build, if those valves don't seat, the engine will perform like a GM bent-valve 305.

 

[j par]

Actually I should correct myself on that hole I heard a guy thing sometimes you can try one of those if it's free or something, but not I heard of a guy Milling head X-amount and it actually worked.
You on the other hand I already know do not give I heard advice and 99% of the time that I've seen. And I was absolutely planning exactly what you said about the .040, but I was just for conversation sake and curiosity seeing how far one has taken it. Do you think it would be out of line to use the Springs from the 318 in the 360 they do look a lot cleaner and better. And they actually ran with the cam that I'm running? Now I'm going to put 318 heads on ice and bring the 360 heads back in for testing and seeing what needs to be done. I think from my scrapping days I picked up a spring compressor? I think that's what it is. From my high school auto shop days I recall it was knurling the valve guides to get some more life out of them? The 318 heads look more quickly runnable, but I think since I haven't had to spend any serious money I could just spend a little bit on the head. I will do anything I can do by hand myself of course.
I'm ordering the gasket kit you recommended today also some freeze plugs and maybe something small also to make $100 minimum free shipping. I noticed distributor oil pump shaft was Loose as hell! I wonder if that pushing comes in the rebuild kit I didn't look yet or if that's too much of a pain in the butt. Lots of questions asked lots of questions answered in lots of questions still LOL

• Ok, you mentioned you don't want the "heard of a guy" stories on what might work. This I have actually done myself, more than once..... and my experience has been that I've cut 360 heads .040 and have never cut the intake. Do you realize if you use the felpro head gaskets in the kit we discussed, your are adding about .025 in thickness from the factory??? So, your really only gaining about .015 even though you cut them .040, Savvy Mate?
• Clean up each valve and inspect them. Problem is, the exhaust take a beating. A lot of times I find it necessary to buy new exhaust valves. On the cheap 50 bucks for all 8. Intakes usually lap out nice. Pour rubbing alcohol in the ports, one at a time, and see if any leaks past the valves. If it does, then it's not sealed. Also, shine a flashlight into each port with the lights off, and see if you can see a sliver of light coming through the valves. No matter the rest of the build, if those valves don't seat, the engine will perform like a GM bent-valve 305.

 

[JBurch]

See here you are telling me that people are giving me good information and I'm not listening or drinking the Kool-Aid LOL and your first comment is I heard of people doing something? I've heard of people trying to take a poop while running uphill. I mean really I'm supposed to go out and mill my heads because you heard somebody did it before Should work I mean when you think about that that's why I don't drink everybody's Kool-Aid. Then you go on to tell me to think about it? I don't think about stuff? again the condescending comment implying I'm stupid. Are you proof reading this are you trying to put me down ?
So I assume you're implying I might try cleaning everything up putting the cam back and setting the head back down and pre clay testing what I have so I know how much I can mill the heads down is what I would have thought of if I was a thinker. that's probably the advice I would give somebody. I've alluded to it before but now I'm going to flat out say it I very much appreciate your help but I can certainly do without the condescending comments that have to come along with it thank you very much again for your help and especially your experience not what you heard somebody had done.

OK.........standard rule of thumb is .060 max cut, I got that from Larry Shepard's "How to Hot rod small block Mopar engines" page 50. I have on my "Mean Teen" as I call it a pair of 360 heads, 587 or 589 castings, don't rightly remember, and frankly I don't care what the casting number is........it's a 360 head with 2.02's and 1.6 valves! They are radically angle milled, it's the way I got them used from some one else; Spoke with the guy who did them up, don't rightly remember what the angle cut was, but I do remember something about a .100 flat mill cut, chamber volume is a measured 45.5 cc, as a flat cut that amount of chamber reduction would be over .100 cut (.1140), that's if you started at 68cc, the valves no longer open on the cylinder center line as do stockers, had to locate and have new eyebrows cut in the pistons because valves did hit, there is no chamber recess opposite the spark plug, set the head down on a flat surface it actually rests on the edge of the intake valve. Wish I had pictures, but I don't and I'm not taking it apart!

So as stated .060 is standard rule of thumb; reality is what do you think you can get away with?

 

[j par]

I heard everything you said that time JBurch thank you. taking that into consideration along with what 318 will win is saying it's pretty much confirming that I will go with his advice on this one and just look at the .040.. Of course like I was saying I'll get all this cleaned up and do a dry run with what I have and see what .040 calculating in the gasket. I'll probably just run it on one cylinder and not all of them and if it's anywhere close I'll leave it alone.

 

[j par]

So I have the gasket kit ready to order and I see it doesn't come with an oil pump gasket but the one that Summit advertises is definitely wrong. Of course I can get it from a local parts store but I'm trying to pump this order up to $100 for free shipping so why not. In the freeze plug I'm not sure that I really need brass ones or anything like that or if I even want them I don't know. And lI'll include a picture of my short list of things left to get and a lot of it I want to browse around the swap meet coming soon so it'll give me something to look for.

 

[j par]

I'm sorry 318willrun I appreciate all your advice I just needed a little clarification here to make my mind work correctly. for some reason (I remember you saying that could be the problem part my memory) saying that the gasket kit you're recommending had the thicker gasket? I don't see any breakdown of that kind of stuff on the website but you were staying here just recently that it's thinner not the normal 39 but 26 I think it was if I look back here. which takes 15 away plus the 40 = -.055 total? I'll mill the heads if I can and if I can afford it. But that would mean that it comes with a thinner than stock head gasket? Again I hope this doesn't come off smart *** sounding or anything else really want to make sure I get the right stuff according to the stuff you've used before.

 

[j par]

But looks like the talking is going to end here soon and The Works going to begin...

 

[Cudafever]

When you(i )say i have heard something, it sometime give you a chance for someone to state it as a fact or that you full of shinola.
As in i know that the factory intermediate bushing has to use a peening tool to set the proper shaft to bushing clearance.
Have heard that the aftermarket ones don't need that treatment.
I guess the one thing that would make me check the valve to piston clearance is the fact the the 318 has No Valve reliefs in the piston and the 360 does.

As far as spring swap? i don't know if the 318 has a tulip intake valve but the 360 for sure does if there factory.
Tulip tulip are heavier than a nail head valve and the are bigger.
Just something to consider.
You said that maybe you could spend some money on the heads. You don't have a seat and valve grinder but here something to consider.
This is going to be a bit long........Had to pull my porting notes out to get the facts straight, and don't get caught up on the amount of ### just how much increase happened
ok your going to us 1.88 valve and my tests were with cutting in a 2.02 but i think it proves a point well.
2.02 valve seat cut in with just a touch of a 2nt cut(stock valve job) 221 cfm @.500. Made a nice top and bottom cut to that seat,(70 degree cut take a lot of metal out of the bowl) and it jump to 246! thats a big jump in cfm for just a good simple(not great )3 angle valve job. Take the dye grinder and smooth the bottom cut in the bowl and you done.
Disclaimer This was the first port that i did with my home made flow bench and i found out latter that i had not calibrated it correctly! but this was the only port that i did a single cut and tested it. all the rest of my ports i cut the 2.02 in got the deep bowl cut in and then started testing.