6.1 Hemi 69 Barracuda Fastback Father Son Project

[72Duster440]

That's the only thread I found too. Cope Racing makes a BB to SB adapter plate, so all I would really need is a custom adapter to bolt the torque converter to the BB flexplate, as well as a toothed ring for the starter somewhere in there. I just need to get the parts and figure it out I guess.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Question for the group.
I have a Mopar 3-speed wiper motor and switch.
I would like to add "Intermittent" wiper speeds to by replacing the switch. If you have done this, what switch did you use?
Needs to have Wash, Slow, Fast plus variable intermittent settings, also needs to "Park" when turned off and between wipes on intermittent settings. TIA

 

[408 swinger]

Can't answer your question. But that wiper motor is pure jewelry!

 

[DionR]

Question for the group.
I have a Mopar 3-speed wiper motor and switch.
I would like to add "Intermittent" wiper speeds to by replacing the switch. If you have done this, what switch did you use?
Needs to have Wash, Slow, Fast plus variable intermittent settings, also needs to "Park" when turned off and between wipes on intermittent settings. TIA

View attachment 1716031333

View attachment 1716031334

Maybe look at the F/M/J Body stuff. I remember my '79 Volare had wiper delay and I added it to my '78 after the fact. As I recall, it was just an additional module, some wiring and a slider to select the delay, but pretty sure the wiper switch itself and the wiper motor wasn't any different.

I know have a module (or two) and some wiring, just in case I could use it for the same reason.

There are probably an aftermarket solutions, but I haven't looked.

 

[racerjoe]

Question for the group.
I have a Mopar 3-speed wiper motor and switch.
I would like to add "Intermittent" wiper speeds to by replacing the switch. If you have done this, what switch did you use?
Needs to have Wash, Slow, Fast plus variable intermittent settings, also needs to "Park" when turned off and between wipes on intermittent setting

Question for the group.
I have a Mopar 3-speed wiper motor and switch.
I would like to add "Intermittent" wiper speeds to by replacing the switch. If you have done this, what switch did you use?
Needs to have Wash, Slow, Fast plus variable intermittent settings, also needs to "Park" when turned off and between wipes on intermittent settings. TIA

View attachment 1716031333

View attachment 1716031334

Cole Hersse is a manufacturer of many different types of switches. You may be able to find one that will suit your needs.

 

[75slant6]

Something like this? I know Ron Francis makes one similar to this as well.

New Port NE14200 - New Port Delay Wiper Switch Also Operates Washer Pump | eBay

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Something like this? I know Ron Francis makes one similar to this as well.

New Port NE14200 - New Port Delay Wiper Switch Also Operates Washer Pump | eBay

That switch looks a lot like this one.
CH 75600-04 from Cole Hersee

So far no one has confirmed function with a Mopar 69 style 3-speed wiper motor.
Prefer not spending $100 for a maybe, and then not have it work... "¯\_(ツ)_/¯"
I'll keep digging around.
I have some time before needing to put the wiper motor in the car.
Even more before I would need the switch...
Hopefully by then, there will be someone that can say which switch will definitely work.

 

[DionR]

Based on what I found, I think the F-Body one I am thinking of works on a 2 speed wiper motor. Probably not a 3 speed motor though.

 

[racerjoe]

That switch looks a lot like this one.
CH 75600-04 from Cole Hersee

So far no one has confirmed function with a Mopar 69 style 3-speed wiper motor.
Prefer not spending $100 for a maybe, and then not have it work... "¯\_(ツ)_/¯"
I'll keep digging around.
I have some time before needing to put the wiper motor in the car.
Even more before I would need the switch...
Hopefully by then, there will be someone that can say which switch will definitely work.

View attachment 1716031434

It likely is the same. Many automotive electrical suppliers sell private labeled Cole Hersee switches. Hence the CH in the part number. It can be hard to find info on them, but once you find a part number you need, you can usually find them on Amazon or eBay for cheaper than the private labeled units.

I made the factory 1970 switch work with a late 90s Dakota wiper motor. I’m sure the circuitry is similar on all of them

 

[75slant6]

I do know @Riddler used the Ron Francis version of that switch along with a neon wiper motor. But that doesn’t say it’ll work with the original 3 speed

 

[LO23M8B]

Wow. Looking thru this thread there are some really talented people on here.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Just ordered, on sale at Jegs for $116 was ̶ ̶ ̶$̶1̶7̶5̶.̶9̶9̶ ̶ ̶
I have a number of small parts that will be getting a chance to see the inside of one, up close and personal.

Bench Top Sandblast Cabinet

• 15-25 cfm @ 40-120 psi
• 23 in. x 19 in. x 14 in. Work Space
• 19 in. x 15 in. Viewing Window
• Overall: 23 in. x 19 in. x 19.4 in.
• Tight Seal around 19 in. x 15 in. Viewing Glass
• 16 in. Florescent Light with Switch
• 1.7-gallon Funnel Capacity
• Removable Plastic Films Protect Glass from Etching
• Silicone Sealed Cabinet Creates an Air Tight Seal
• Removable Air Filter
• Extra Large Rubber Gloves with Grip to Easily Hold Parts
• Spray Gun with 4 Ceramic Nozzles

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Note to self.
8HP70 Auto Trans Park Release Cable
2012-2022 Mopar - 4670705aa
Emergency Park Release, Shift 8HP to Neutral without key or car running.
Connects to the lever inside the console. Lift out the little coin cup... the lever is underneath.

 

[DionR]

Note to self.
8HP70 Auto Trans Park Release Cable
2012-2022 Mopar - 4670705aa
Emergency Park Release, Shift 8HP to Neutral without key or car running.
Connects to the lever inside the console. Lift out the little coin cup... the lever is underneath.
View attachment 1716034180

View attachment 1716034181

Good point, never crossed my mind that an 8HP70 swap should include this part.

I would add a lock to it somehow, though. Something to make it hard for someone to get into your car and put it in neutral and roll it away. Pretty easy to move a car with this feature, provided they just roll it in a straight line. I think the aftermarket offers later model Chargers and Challengers an option to put a lock on it somehow.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Good point, never crossed my mind that an 8HP70 swap should include this part.

I would add a lock to it somehow, though. Something to make it hard for someone to get into your car and put it in neutral and roll it away. Pretty easy to move a car with this feature, provided they just roll it in a straight line. I think the aftermarket offers later model Chargers and Challengers an option to put a lock on it somehow.

If you didn't add the remote release, you could still release it manually, but you would have to get under there to the lever on the driver's side of the transmission. Hopefully we will never need to do either. ;-)

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Finally!
Loaded up and headed to my painter for final paint.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

It was epoxy primed and jammed when I brought it home in 2017 after all the metal work and body work was done.
In 2017 his shop rate was $85hr... Today it is $120hr That's a 41% increase

Going to have them:
1. Prime and Raptor liner the bottom side of the new tunnel.
2. Scuff, prime and repaint the engine compartment and Radiator Core support. Was painted but I made some new holes and filled some old ones...
3. Inside, they will scuff and apply the Lizard Skin Sound control and Thermal barrier to the firewall, floor and ceiling. I sourced the full Lizard Skin kit from Jegs.
4. Prep and paint the entire outside.

Should have an estimate back this afternoon. Been 6+ years since they did the original work.
Doing a little exploration first. Unfortunately, I was not able to keep it garaged and my Walmart tent is not completely dry underneath...

I'm setting the over/under for the estimate at $11,999.99 ++

My guess is $9,600 + tax + materials
I don't see 80hrs work but we shall see...

They did get right on it. The passenger side was blocking out pretty well.

 

[racerjoe]

It was epoxy primed and jammed when I brought it home in 2017 after all the metal work and body work was done.
In 2017 his shop rate was $85hr... Today it is $120hr That's a 41% increase

View attachment 1716042211

Going to have them:
1. Prime and Raptor liner the bottom side of the new tunnel.
2. Scuff, prime and repaint the engine compartment and Radiator Core support. Was painted but I made some new holes and filled some old ones...
3. Inside, they will scuff and apply the Lizard Skin Sound control and Thermal barrier to the firewall, floor and ceiling. I sourced the full Lizard Skin kit from Jegs.
4. Prep and paint the entire outside.

Should have an estimate back this afternoon. Been 6+ years since they did the original work.
Doing a little exploration first. Unfortunately, I was not able to keep it garaged and my Walmart tent is not completely dry underneath...

I'm setting the over/under for the estimate at $11,999.99 ++

My guess is $9,600 + tax + materials
I don't see 80hrs work but we shall see... View attachment 1716042212

They did get right on it. The passenger side was blocking out pretty well.

View attachment 1716042213

How many times are they going to block and prime? If this is the first coat of primer after body work, I personally would do 2 more rounds of blocking/priming before paint. Then after paint they will need to color sand.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I see way more than 80 hours in this. I'd say it would take at least 2-3 days to block. Likely another day to mask and prime. Repeat this process two more times. The second and third block usually go quicker than the first. Next, it will need to be surgically cleaned and masked again for paint. That will likely take another full day. Then another day for paint, and a week or so of color sanding and buffing. This doesn't account for the sound deadening you want done. I'm betting you will have $5K in materials.
I'm genuinely curious what a paint job from a shop costs. I've always done my own and I recently did a full body work/paint from bare metal on a Porsche 911. I charged a fraction of what that shop rate is!

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Seem to have misplaced mine...
67, 68, or 69 Barracuda Hood Catch Bar/Loop

Let me know if you have one to sell. Without bolts is fine.
Please PM me a pic and price with shipping to Snohomish WA 98296

Posted to Parts Wanted also.

Thanks,
Randy

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

How many times are they going to block and prime? If this is the first coat of primer after body work, I personally would do 2 more rounds of blocking/priming before paint. Then after paint they will need to color sand.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I see way more than 80 hours in this. I'd say it would take at least 2-3 days to block. Likely another day to mask and prime. Repeat this process two more times. The second and third block usually go quicker than the first. Next, it will need to be surgically cleaned and masked again for paint. That will likely take another full day. Then another day for paint, and a week or so of color sanding and buffing. This doesn't account for the sound deadening you want done. I'm betting you will have $5K in materials.
I'm genuinely curious what a paint job from a shop costs. I've always done my own and I recently did a full body work/paint from bare metal on a Porsche 911. I charged a fraction of what that shop rate is!

The estimate came back around 120 hours... not the 80 max that I was guessing.
It was blocked, primed, blocked, primed, a number of times and then jammed before I brought it home 6 years ago.
This is it when it came home April 2017. Engine compartment, trunk, interior and jams painted in the final color.
The outside received epoxy primer to seal it.

I did create some re-do work by changing from 727 to 8HP70. New USCT Tunnel.
Thought I would be able to get it back sooner "¯\_(ツ)_/¯" but I got a little distracted.
Took about 3 years away from the Barracuda by buying another project... the 70 Challenger.
It tied up my Barracuda funds and my time. But I couldn't pass it up.
Selling it freed up funding for the Barracuda but it was more than a year wait to get back in to my painter's shop.

 

[racerjoe]

The estimate came back around 120 hours... not the 80 max that I was guessing.
It was blocked, primed, blocked, primed, a number of times and then jammed before I brought it home 6 years ago.
This is it when it came home April 2017. Engine compartment, trunk, interior and jams painted in the final color.
The outside received epoxy primer to seal it.

View attachment 1716048168

I did create some re-do work by changing from 727 to 8HP70. New USCT Tunnel.
Thought I would be able to get it back sooner "¯\_(ツ)_/¯" but I got a little distracted.
Took about 3 years away from the Barracuda by buying another project... the 70 Challenger.
It tied up my Barracuda funds and my time. But I couldn't pass it up.
Selling it freed up funding for the Barracuda but it was more than a year wait to get back in to my painter's shop.
View attachment 1716048169

Damn I was spot on! Add up my days and I come up with 15 x 8 hours a day = 120 hours. Considering I'm just a dude in his garage messing around, I'm happy to see I'm close to what a shop estimates. I hope they knock it out quickly for you and doesn't get stuck in paint jail.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

This was yesterday, fresh out of the booth.

Fenders, Hood and Deck Lid drying in the booth.

Fenders & Fins in Woodinville WA
G3 Hemi 69 Barracuda Fastback at Fenders and Fins

Same painter painted my Cuda and did the Challenger's trunk, engine compartment and rear dual exhaust valance.
Challenger trunk before.

Challenger trunk after. Color looks a little off on the computer but was right on match to the car.
Had to grind out all the ugly black spatter finish.

Challenger Engine Bay before.

Challenger Engine Bay after.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Bottom side of floor/tunnel progress, a little more welding on the tunnel frame, sheet metal and trans mounting brackets, scuffed, primed and U-Pol Raptor applied.
Decided to make the tunnel top covers removeable. Drilled for 1/4-20 fasteners with nuts welded to the bottom tunnel frame.

Still a little wet in this picture. A lot less shiny when dry. See back half.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Scuffed and masked, preparing for Lizard Skin. Sound and Thermal coatings. 2 gallons of each.
Sound control goes on first. 2 ~20 mil coats, 1-2 hours apart. Dry 24-36 hours and then apply 2 ~20 mil coats of Ceramic Insulation, 1-2 hours apart. Let dry a day or 2 and then topcoat.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Lizard Skin Sound control is in. Can definitely hear the difference.
Firewall, entire floor, wheel houses, quarter panels, trunk and roof.
Pretty much everywhere except inside the doors. I'll use Kill Matt or similar sheet sound deadener inside the doors, and possibly on the trunk lid if needed.

Will get 2 coats of Lizard Skin Ceramic Thermal Insulation on Monday, followed by the Top Coat after a day or two to fully dry.
Only the passenger compartment will get the ceramic. Firewall, floor and ceiling.
Will help keep the inside of the car cooler. Ceramic window tint will help with that too.