62 Valiant 200 / 170 cuin /6 - Odd smell - then dead battery

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One possibility that does concern me. That's a short to ground.
Without the ammeter, and with no fusible link, there's no way to know and there's no protection.

Might want to disconnect the battery, then measure for any connectivity between the positive wiring and ground. That would reveal a serious short to ground.
A more detailed investigation which will catch smaller leaks is outlined by 67Dart273 in post #14.
 
Charrlie_S said:
I can't be sure, but it looks like the terminal on the left is not insulated (it should be). Try swapping the wire that is on the right terminal to the left terminal. Still connected to ground. Then connect the wire from the harness to the right terminal. Normally it should not make any difference as to which wire goes to which terminal. But the rebuilder might have screwed up.
Click to expand...
Hey charlie - No difference...
 
Mattax said:
One possibility that does concern me. That's a short to ground.
Without the ammeter, and with no fusible link, there's no way to know and there's no protection.

Might want to disconnect the battery, then measure for any connectivity between the positive wiring and ground. That would reveal a serious short to ground.
A more detailed investigation which will catch smaller leaks is outlined by 67Dart273 in post #14.
Click to expand...
There is 12 v on both sides of the regulator...I am going to try bypassing it as you suggested...
 
ADDED VOLT METER BY USING IGNITION SW POSITION 2 AND GROUND.

Just noticed this^^.

'62 ignition switch cpould be different.
But in general I2 on the ignition switch is connected only with the key in Start.
Any voltage read at the I2 terminal with the engine running is voltage reduced by the current flowing through the ballast resistor.
Here's the back of a replacement switch for '67 as an example

1684182909461.png




Engine Running voltage should look something like this.
1684183656849.png
 
Mattax said:
ADDED VOLT METER BY USING IGNITION SW POSITION 2 AND GROUND.

Just noticed this^^.

'62 ignition switch cpould be different.
But in general I2 on the ignition switch is connected only with the key in Start.
Any voltage read at the I2 terminal with the engine running is voltage reduced by the current flowing through the ballast resistor.
Here's the back of a replacement switch for '67 as an example

View attachment 1716090296



Engine Running voltage should look something like this.
View attachment 1716090299
Click to expand...
Maybe it is connected to I1, it has voltage in start and run...none in off.
 
gsoco said:
SO are both my regulators bad? is this common getting 3 bad regulators?
Click to expand...
That's a good question.
Its possible, but odds would seem against it.

Two things to look at would be grounding and inside the regulator if something is damaged.

The old point type regulators are pretty easy to see if something is damaged.
The ones with a little circuit board I don't know if there will be anything obvious to see.

Off the top of my head, I think grounding issue would cause the regulator to let current flow through the regulator just like the jumper.
That's how a points type would act if it wasn't grounded to the body.
 
gsoco said:
Alligator clip on the field post of the regulator to the 2 wire ballast resistor post
Click to expand...
You and Charlie solved it.
Problem is in the wiring from the field terminal to the alternator

If its an open wire, then the regulators ought to work.
If its a short, then they may be burned out.
 
Mattax said:
That's a good question.
Its possible, but odds would seem against it.

Two things to look at would be grounding and inside the regulator if something is damaged.

The old point type regulators are pretty easy to see if something is damaged.
The ones with a little circuit board I don't know if there will be anything obvious to see.

Off the top of my head, I think grounding issue would cause the regulator to let current flow through the regulator just like the jumper.
That's how a points type would act if it wasn't grounded to the body.
Click to expand...
OK. I'll look at the regulator and make sure it is well grounded too...
 
gsoco said:
Maybe it is connected to I1, it has voltage in start and run...none in off.
Click to expand...
That would work.

With the wire identification using J1 for power in, J2 for Ignition 1, and J3 for ignition 2 it can be confusing.
 
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Actually now I'm not sure where the fault is.
I thought you were just bypassing the regulator. That would explain why the voltage followed rpm.
1684185172912.png

gsoco said:
Alligator clip on the field post of the regulator to the 2 wire ballast resistor post
Click to expand...
But reading this, it sounds like the field wire was jumped.
Which then resulted in the connection to the rotor being made.
1684185398980.png


If so, then the regulator should be controlling the voltage.
 
Last edited:
If the jumper goes all the way to the alternator, then the field wire may be the issue.
 
Mattax said:
Actually now I'm not sure where the fault is.
I thought you were just bypassing the regulator. That would explain why the voltage followed rpm.
View attachment 1716090306

But reading this, it sounds like the field wire was jumped.
Which then resulted in the connection to the rotor being made.
View attachment 1716090307

If so, then the regulator should be controlling the voltage.
Click to expand...
1684188113987.png
 
gsoco said:
View attachment 1716090334
Click to expand...

Too many things jumped at once.
1. Jumper just the regulator.
2. Then jumper ignition run from the ballast to the regultor IGN terminal.
The coil side of the ballast is low voltage when the engine is running. The full power side usually is the junction of two blue wires, or a blue with white striped blue. '62 could be different but I'm pretty sure I checked that in the factory diagram.
 
A way to check the wiring is to see which side of the resistor has higher voltage.
If feed side is 14 V, then the other side should be several volts lower.
1684189193811.png
 
Mattax said:
1. Jumper just the regulator.
Click to expand...
1684185172912-png.png


It could be done like this with the wires connected. Or just carefully jumper blue and green the wires together. Either way don't let the bare metal contact ground.
1684189433640.png
 
If the problem is in the wiring or connections from the ballast resistor, then jumping from the run side to the regulator'd IGN terminal should fix that and regulate!
1684190240039.png

orange arrows illustrate current flow with approximate amperage.
 
At the risk of throwing too much info.
A connection from the low voltage side of the regulator will make the regulator act as if the system voltage is low.
The regulator will then let power through to the rotor all the time until it (the regulator) sees 14 to 15 Volts which means the alternator is producing power at 16 Volts or higher.
1684191864454.png
 
SO while it looks as if isolating the regulator solves the problem, it's hard to believe that 3 voltage regulators (2 new and one both solid state and analog) have gone bad...
 
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