67 twin turbo dart

-
That's more like it. It appears all sensors are working, but it just isn't starting. To separate fuel and spark issues, what happens if you disconnect the injectors and try a shot of starting fluid?
It starts and runs for a few seconds and stops, then back fires after it stops sometimes not always. But like before I changed how the cam pick up detects and it ran and ran good but not the next day without changing any settings. I did crank the engine and the cam sensor is turning.
 
And the cam sensor appears to be reading correctly too. This sounds more like a fueling issue. Any chance the fuel pressure is down or you have a clogged filter?
 
Hello everyone im the one who bought Mad dart's car been a slower process then his figure I'd do an update since I got the car few months ago. Havent done the motor or trans yet been working on the interior first. Put sone insulation on the floor, roof and inside the doors and quarter window area, installed and have mostn of it wired a EZwiring kit, adding power window to the doors bit thats it, have the motor and regulators just waiting till I get the front and rear glass reinstalled after I do the head liner. But front to rear lights are done waiting for the custom dash panel to be made, have the front suspension in the car just need to do the rear end.got some new wheels for the front since adding wilwoods front brakes the 14s wouldnt clear. Ill update more as I go, just did the carpet kit today letting it sit. Wheels are coys 15x6

View attachment 1714791238

View attachment 1714791239

View attachment 1714791240

View attachment 1714791242
Digging the wheel choice.
 
And the cam sensor appears to be reading correctly too. This sounds more like a fueling issue. Any chance the fuel pressure is down or you have a clogged filter?
Got it running, for now. Took it out for a drive. It actually started 3 time in a row. Fuel pressure was a little low that's been adjusted back up to 43. With just the pump running I had it adjusted to 43psi but with a load it dropped. Brand new fuel filters. Hopefully fingers crossed it continues to run. Funny thing is with the new fuel regulator the cars running way rich now lol got on it and went to 10. Figured I'd have to tune with the new set up
 
Good news started up second try, ran good drove it over to my parents house to help with some yard work. Drove back no issues. Will see how the weather goes when good will go out to a spot that the owner doesn't care about cars doing test hits, safely of course.
 
Well got the engine short block all out back together, went to install the balancer and my cheap installer broke (I know get what you pay for) bought a new better one from comp cams, degreed in the cam, ran into a issue with the bronze gear getting that taken care of, front cover and water pump on, modified a bracket for the alternator to use the ARP bolts instead of the allen head ones that cam with the kit. Getting closer.

View attachment 1715254424
Hi, where did you get that crank trigger wheel at? All I can find is 6.5" diameter trigger wheels. I'm adding a MS to a 383 and that harmonic balancer is 7 1/4" diameter.

Thanks
 
Hi, where did you get that crank trigger wheel at? All I can find is 6.5" diameter trigger wheels. I'm adding a MS to a 383 and that harmonic balancer is 7 1/4" diameter.

Thanks
That would be a question for Maddart. It came with the car when I bought it off him. Might be in his old thread when he was building the car. Its weird I can't @ him to flag him in
 

There's a solution to all your problems.

SLANT 6.jpg
 
Well went to go for a drive yesterday since the weather was decent about 43* out. Started her up, started making noise gave it a little to warm up, pulled out the drive way, oil psi was good, everything checked out. Pulled back into the garage and heard a sound like the bolt from the gear drive made bouncing off the gear, shut it down, pulled the VC and one of the bolts for the rocker assembly on cylinder 8 broke, was in the vc when I pulled it off, so checking with ARP if they have the Allen bolts to replace and also reached out to hughes engines about replacements. Not sure what happened, they were all torqued to spec and just checked all the clearances a week ago and everything was tight then.
 
Just glad this happened now instead of going down the track this next season. Which kinda sucks since i was saving for a better ice box with a far superior pump for the inter coolers, current set up is very under par for the needs.
 
Just glad this happened now instead of going down the track this next season.

If you are breaking hold down bolts or fracturing the shafts you have either a geometry issue or you have push rods bending and hammering the shafts.

@MOPARMAGA broke a shaft and his push rods were bending like a pole vault.

I’ve seen this many times. You can’t get the push rods too big and too thick.

Just my .02

Edit: or your spring load is too low and you are uncontrollably lifting the lifters over the nose.

That hammers the living crap out of the valve gear too.
 
If you are breaking hold down bolts or fracturing the shafts you have either a geometry issue or you have push rods bending and hammering the shafts.

@MOPARMAGA broke a shaft and his push rods were bending like a pole vault.

I’ve seen this many times. You can’t get the push rods too big and too thick.

Just my .02

Edit: or your spring load is too low and you are uncontrollably lifting the lifters over the nose.

That hammers the living crap out of the valve gear too.
Both shafts broke, pissed me off. Haven't broken another since getting bigger pushrods.
Now I have bigger 7/16 pushrods so the solid roller springs don't bend my 3/8 .
Constant cycle of bolstering my anti retirement fund -$$$
Oh and also forgot to mention the dude who put my stuff together 1st put way to short of bolts and it pulled threads. But there were witness marks on my pushrods
 
If you are breaking hold down bolts or fracturing the shafts you have either a geometry issue or you have push rods bending and hammering the shafts.

@MOPARMAGA broke a shaft and his push rods were bending like a pole vault.

I’ve seen this many times. You can’t get the push rods too big and too thick.

Just my .02

Edit: or your spring load is too low and you are uncontrollably lifting the lifters over the nose.

That hammers the living crap out of the valve gear too.
Geometry is on, was set up by Michael at B3racing when he did my cylinder heads. Push rods are custom 7/16" mantons measured the way they should have been with an adjustable one. Micheal set up the valves too. Maybe it was one of the ones I removed with the engine out to replace the retainer clips, they were used when I bought them. We shall see, haven't had any issues before this.
 
Geometry is on, was set up by Michael at B3racing when he did my cylinder heads. Push rods are custom 7/16" mantons measured the way they should have been with an adjustable one. Micheal set up the valves too. Maybe it was one of the ones I removed with the engine out to replace the retainer clips, they were used when I bought them. We shall see, haven't had any issues before this.

Damn. It just could be a freak thing. It certainly is strange.

It’s possible the bolts have a bad heat treat or something like that.

It’s always nice if you can nail down the cause.

I’m stumped.
 
Damn. It just could be a freak thing. It certainly is strange.

It’s possible the bolts have a bad heat treat or something like that.

It’s always nice if you can nail down the cause.

I’m stumped.
Maybe, yeah im stumped too. Figure I'll replace all the bolts once I can get new. Hopefully ARP has a good replacement with some better strength and their quality.
 
Here's the one bolt that broke and it's mate. Spoke with Dave at Hughes and he was nice enough to sell me the bolts, getting all 16 new.

20251222_190216.jpg
 
I assume the bolts are hollow for oil to flow through? The factory bolts aren't hollow and oil gets to the valvetrain. Sorry if I missed some previous infomation.
 
I assume the bolts are hollow for oil to flow through? The factory bolts aren't hollow and oil gets to the valvetrain. Sorry if I missed some previous infomation.
No these are magnum head so no oiling through the bolts, they are feed through the push rods. The top hole is for the Allen socket
 
Do you know what grade those bolts are? That’s a lot of thread and a very short shoulder. Seems like a custom made bolt to me.
I don't, i was looking at replacing them with a arp bolt but the flange on the head of the bolt is to big, and those have the longer shoulder. Unless I buy a bunch and grind down the flange part to let the rocker move it's full articulation
 
-
Back
Top Bottom