'68 Cuda Gas Tank Sending Unit

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Well, I hooked up the new sending unit outside the tank.....worse.
Only goes a little past half on the gauge when the float is in the full position. .....

I thought maybe it has a bad ground so I ran an extra ground.....same results.

Any ideas? ????

Jeff
 
Well, I hooked up the new sending unit outside the tank.....worse.
Only goes a little past half on the gauge when the float is in the full position. .....

I thought maybe it has a bad ground so I ran an extra ground.....same results.

Any ideas? ????

Jeff


Return it and find a better quality one...
 

Well, I hooked up the new sending unit outside the tank.....worse.
Only goes a little past half on the gauge when the float is in the full position. .....

I thought maybe it has a bad ground so I ran an extra ground.....same results.

Any ideas? ????

Jeff

Put your old one in. Most people replace them like you do for precaution or miss-diagnoses when they are actually fine.

The new ones are all made by the same place. Just repackaged for end retailers. So don't bother trying a different brand. You could have a bum one. But just return and get another.

I have one just like yours but is the 3/8" version. It does read full and empty sort of correctly. Full is 1/8 mark past full. Empty is right at the empty mark or a hair before it. And by empty I mean you are calling AAA.

The problem I have with the repro's is that the pick up is in a different place than originals. Now I only have access to about 13 gallons of fuel. With my original setup I could utilize 17 gallons out of my 18 gallon tank. That 3-4 gallons cuts down my driving range.

Clean your old unit, put a good/new sock on it if it needs one, and find the root of your problem.

fuelpups.jpg
 
Check the ground strap and contacts at the pick up. Check for breaks and cracks in insulation of wire that goes to instrument cluster. Check grounds at instrument cluster especially the two lugs off the gauge itself.

IIRC, you take a 9v battery and check the gauge movement directly. Don't leave it pegged, just long enough to get to the full and empty marks.
 
Put your old one in. Most people replace them like you do for precaution or miss-diagnoses when they are actually fine.

The new ones are all made by the same place. Just repackaged for end retailers. So don't bother trying a different brand. You could have a bum one. But just return and get another.

I have one just like yours but is the 3/8" version. I does read full and empty sort of correctly. Full is 1/8 mark past full. Empty is right at the empty mark or a hair before it. And by empty I mean you are calling AAA.

The problem I have with the repro's is that the pick up is in a different place than originals. Now I only have access to about 13 gallons of fuel. With my original setup I could utilize 17 gallons out of my 18 gallon tank. That 3-4 gallons cuts down my driving range.

Clean your old unit, put a good/new sock on it if it needs one, and find the root of your problem.

fuelpups.jpg


Interesting... :-k
 
Check the ground strap and contacts at the pick up. Check for breaks and cracks in insulation of wire that goes to instrument cluster. Check grounds at instrument cluster especially the two lugs off the gauge itself.

IIRC, you take a 9v battery and check the gauge movement directly. Don't leave it pegged, just long enough to get to the full and empty marks.

I tried the 9v battery. .....got zero gauge movement.
What does that mean?
 
I tried the 9v battery. .....got zero gauge movement.
What does that mean?

"Dead gauge" is the short answer. Ohm meter at terminals ( marked on the back of the gauge ) A and S should show 20 ohms. Same applies to oil and temp' gauges except terminals are marked I and S.
I'll go ahead and clear the possible confusion before it begins.... Not all models have 20 ohm gauges. Majority are standard panels having oil warning lamp and 2 of 13 ohm gauges. Your rally panel has 3 of 20 ohm gauges. Hope this helps
 
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