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Tried fitting the Dougs D452 headers today. Engine mounted in the proper wedge location. Steering linkage and torsion bars removed. Some pics. Left side. The steering box had to be removed to get the header into place and then re-installed. The box is tight against #3 tube, would need to be dimpled to work. #1 pipe further back would also need a dimple for the steering shaft to get by. Left side: both pipes need major dimple to allow torsion bar clearance. At least 1/2" dimple. Marked in yellow. Good ground clearance once in place. Right Side: #2 pipe is right against the shock tower. This shock tower will be getting modified so there will be adequate clearance for both these headers and a hemi. Right Side: Torsion bar interference on the right side as well. Dimples required to allow proper clearance. Doug's D452 do not fit, without dimples or re-shaping at least 5 to 6 tubes and right side shock tower clearancing. My options are either to go with TTI's or do header surgery, and that is all dependent on whether I use this wedge. There's a hemi that a friend has tipped me on and I'm waiting for further details. So I'll take a break on the headers and move on to the shock tower re-shaping and then build a drive shaft loop. Stay tuned.
Hemi got my vote! Great work. Following along.
Awesome build man. I am following along aswell!
Slow going here. Have a 1350 transmission yoke on order, that needs to show up and my buddy will get my loop rolled for me tomorrow. But here's what's new. Started on my driveshaft hoop crossmember. Side brackets will be plug welded to frame connectors when done. Crossmember tucks up nice, no interference of exhaust, etc. Cardboard similates the 1/4 X 2" hoop that I'll build into the crossmember. When done it will add noticeable rigidity to the chassis as well. Also stripped the brackets off of the bumpers today. Going to need a new set of bumpers, or these ones re-chromed. Any tips on bumpers guys?? I've got a large list of items that I'm going to be needing to order in a couple of months. Looking at Dante's. Is there a better place to buy from? Recommendations please!
Got the driveshaft hoop built today. After I have it painted I'll weld it up into place. Motor / trans back out and time to make some room for a Hemi.
Progress on the Dart today. Check it out. Cut out the right side fender well area in case a Hemi shows up. The extra space also allows the D452's to fit the wedge as well. The shock tower brace is now cut back in this picture Metal fabricated to fit the modified shock brace and welded into place. Additional gusset from the backside yet to be installed. New metal shaped, a 3/4" radius rolled, cut, and tac welded into place. Welding and finishing tomorrow. In hindsight I should have done this early on. Better late than never though. That was it for today!
Damn. Nice work right there. What welder are you using.
---- I've got a Lincoln 220 mig. It does the job. Right side fully welded now, ready for some prep and paint.
Dougs D452 headers. Got the headers in place today. Just the steering column left to fit / install. These sure were not a simple install, pretty much every pipe will be re-worked by the time the strg column is in. The clearance that was made for the hemi valve cover allowed the 452's to fit on the right side. Engine is in the proper RB location. I may, or may not use these headers depending on whether a Hemi comes along.
How much room do you have between the starter and headers?
--- Mini starter fits, it gets installed at same time as the headers. The problem with D452's is at the torsion bars. Strg box has to come out, headers in, then reinstall the strg box, was not a problem with the engine plate. With a rack and pinion the 452's would likely work just fine.
What size torsion bars are you using in your car?
--- These are the 6 cylinder bars holding the car up right now.
Been about a month since any updates, but I have been making headway on the Dart. Some pictures to check out. I have the driveshaft finished along with the hoop. Hoop will get painted blue off of the car and then welded in for good, likely in a week or so. The drivershaft is a 3.5" with 1350 u joints and steel yokes on both ends. The steering column has been shortened now and the shaft modified. It has since been painted and ready to go in for good. I put together the small poly paint booth as well. Lots of small parts to paint, this is a must have for the DIY guy. All bumper brackets got sand blasted, primed and a couple of good heavy coats of Endura 2 part paint. Endura takes over a full day to dry but it's tough as nails afterwards. Steering wheel took lots of work. Good as new now. Tackled the deck lid too. Some repairs were needed. Lots of sanding. Top of trunk lid blocked out perfect. A little more work in a couple of places across the back still needed. The deck lid used to have the full panel across the rear and GT emblems so there was a number of holes to weld in. I expect the underside will turn blue in a couple of days or so. Lots of interior pieces finished up, ready to install when the time comes. Pretty soon it's gonna be time to get back on the body, a few things to finish up before the poly paint booth gets set up. Making headway but that's about it guys.
These trunk lids sure end up taking a load of time. Really dragging out. But I did get the trunk lid finished and fitting nicely. Bottom side of the trunk lid is now painted too. Tomorrow the top side will get it. Smoothened out the joins and spot welds on the rear trunk ledge, valance or whatever its called.
Exterior side of the trunk lid got painted today. BASF basecoat and 3 coats of RMC2000 clear. Will give it a quick sand and polish in a day or 2 and then put it aside till it's time to go on. Driveshaft hoop got welded into place also. Ready for some base and clear coat on the welded ends where the paint got burnt, will happen tomorrow. That was it for today.
Now that the Dart is nearing time for paint I figured I had better tie up some loose ends. That being said, so far the Dana has just been eyeballed into place so time to that get finished up. Once evened up and the pinion angle set at 4.5 degrees the spring perches got tac welded and the dana came back out from under. Some Pics. Ready to weld the perches up solid Diff is back in place and notice the perches have been boxed. I've flattened and curled perches in the past, that won't be happening again. Everything tight, pinion angle set. Inner tub clearance at the tire sidewalls, 7/8". Tire bulge sticks out 3/16" on each side. It will have the right look. Driveshaft hoop finished and welded ends painted. Next up, some mods to the front fender corners and then it's time to start building the big poly paint booth.
Worked on the front fenders today. Running 28” rubber up front and they were clipping the lower edges of the fenders on turns. Some pics. The tape edge is the preferred clearance. Currently it catches. After some cutting this piece came out. After some fitting, welding, and finishing tire clearance is no longer an issue. Right side got the same treatment, no longer is 28” rubber up front an issue. The minor alteration actually looks as good or better than before. Tomorrow looks to be a good day to start getting the shock tower ready to repaint after those hemi mods were made.
Slow going this past couple of days. Pic update. Engine compartment is ready for re-spraying. Right side shock tower prepped and both inner fenderwells have been finish wet sanded. Centre of firewall will just be masked up, the fenderwells had some dust in the clear though so it warranted redo for them. Had to finish the back side of the shock tower mod as well. This is over the upper control arm, the back side of the boxed area for the valve cover, that slowed today down too. Lots of wet sanding to 600 grit today. Just the sides of the doors and quarters left to wet sand. A few primer touch ups and then onto masking. Yes slow going.
Great thread, I really enjoy watching your hot rod take shape.