**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

-
I just purchased this Main Body. It has adjustable air bleeds in it already drilled and tapped. 69 bucks plus 11 bucks shipping. It has down leg boosters, no choke etc. Looks like I will be piecing together a complete carb. So far I have about $200.00 in it with the metering blocks and other parts I bought. I just need a base plate and new carb bowls to be complete. So by the time it is said and done I will be in it about $325.00 Total for a Fully Adjustable HP Style Carb.

Features:

Flows 850 cfm
Adjustable screw in air bleeds
High performance down leg boosters
Maximum air with no air horn choke tower , or choke control
Compatible with Holley and Proform carb parts.

View attachment $T2eC16VHJIYFHN2Ts0ThBSKQgKnRdw~~60_12.JPG
 
My alternator started acting weird today. At idle and up to 2500RPM showed 11V on tester. After that would show 13.8V. Gauge was tripping out. I had a new Voltage regulator in my trunk so I put it in real quick. Readings were the same.

I have been here before on my other stroker motor. These alternators don't like to be spun up too quick and they start to fail and come apart inside. My other car ended up with a dead short inside the Alternator and had a fireworks show under the hood.

So that being said I ordered a 100 amp Tuff Stuff Alternator through Summit. Standard Chrysler Square back with external Voltage Regulator. They only had Chrome. I would have liked as cast better but whatever........ 129.97 shipped to my door. Out with the old, in with the new.
 
younggun2.0 said:
What about swapping the pulley and under driving it?
Click to expand...

I need Higher amp output at lower RPM. I can hear my fuel pump surging because of it. I got 2 Fuel Pumps.... 1 for the Motor and 1 for the NOS and more electronics than that 60amp stock alternator can keep up with. At night with my lights on stereo going my Volt Meter is showing right at 10V at Idle..... It's bad. Turn the NOS Pump on and Oh boy. Add the blinkers into the equation and it jumps from 8-10V sitting at a signal.

It only shows charging right now when I am over 2500 RPM

On my 67 with the EFI and all the stuff I got going on with that one, I am going to need at least a 200 Amp alternator. I will get that one from here.......

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=557
 
I know it would be more weight what about dual batteries and overdriving it maybe buying your alternator some time just a thought .
 
superprotyrn said:
I know it would be more weight what about dual batteries and overdriving it maybe buying your alternator some time just a thought .
Click to expand...

This car should work out fine with 1 battery. Total amp draw with everything is about 80 amps. this is Full Tilt Boogie with everything on at once. I will most likely never run the car like that though. The Tuff Stuff Alternator does not have an Idle Rating for some odd reason. I have looked everywhere and can not find it. It has already been ordered but I think I will call Summit today and see if they have the specifications.

My 67 is set up with 2 battery's. Both battery's charge when the car is running but I have a switch by the shut off that will toggle between them. Just like a boat. The Megasquirt ECU has the capability to monitor Voltage so I could wire in a relay that would trigger a solenoid and bring the second battery into the equation automatically if it drops below a certain set parameter pretty simple.The 67 has more stuff going on. 3 fuel pumps that draw 20 amps each and a host of other things. If I recall correctly the amp draw on that one is in the 160 Amp + range at full tilt boogie.
 
I am getting all my part numbers together for the Vacuum Pump set up. Seems the Valve Cover set up will be the toughest part. I am going to start with new Polished Valve Covers and modify them by either welding on the bungs or using bolt on parts. Weighing my options.

Prices really vary on the pump set up. GZ Motorsports has a continuous duty pump that most are very happy with. I also like the Product Engineering Pump but I don't think it is a continuous duty unit.

Think I am leaning toward this one here but I will get it minus his Hoses and Fittings. Nobody makes a COMPLETE Kit for Mopars that I know of...... ONLY GZ Motorsports. All others you have to build your brackets and buy your own Crank Mandrel to make up the system.

http://www.gzmotorsports.com/CPVK104-vacuum-pump-kit.html

Product Engineering unit.....

http://product-engr.com/vacuum_system.html
 
mshred said:
Mad, where is this from? I need a real catch can for my car instead of the little aluminum water bottle I have been using. The one you have looks as though the hose attaches from the bottom instead of the top?
Click to expand...

I got mine off ebay. Yes it attaches to the bottom so it will suck it back into the radiator. Drain tube goes high in the canister for the over flow and comes out the bottom as well.

They have a bunch of different sizes. I was off a little on the price..... by 2 Bucks.

I have a higher PSI Racing Cap on my radiator. Think it is 25-29PSI. I have never had even a drop leak from it.

[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOT-ROD-RAT-ROD-2x10-Polished-Aluminum-14-oz-Radiator-Over-Flow-Tank-/281345286240?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41817c6060&vxp=mtr"]Hot Rod Rat Rod 2x10 Polished Stainless Steel 14 oz Radiator Over Flow Tank | eBay[/ame]
 
Mad Dart said:
I got mine off ebay. Yes it attaches to the bottom so it will suck it back into the radiator. Drain tube goes high in the canister for the over flow and comes out the bottom as well.

They have a bunch of different sizes. I was off a little on the price..... by 2 Bucks.

I have a higher PSI Racing Cap on my radiator. Think it is 25-29PSI. I have never had even a drop leak from it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOT-ROD-RAT...Parts_Accessories&hash=item41817c6060&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks Mad!
 
Worked on installing the overflow tank today. Went to ace hardware and picked up some stainless steel hardware. It's in and done.

On another note I took one for Team MOPAR today. Went to lay down on my creeper and I did not notice my ratchet was under the tire. So I Lay down on it turning to the left at the same time to finish up the install. As soon as I transferred my weight over as I was laying down the ratchet spun around and tagged me right between the eyes. It wacked me pretty good. I started laughing my *** off and kept going trying to finish up. About 5 second later I feel a warm fuzzy going down my face and all into my eyes...... Damn thing split my hard *** head open! Couldn't see **** with the blood going in my eyes so I had to stop an clean my self up! Lol

As I am sitting here updating this thread 45 Min later Blood is still dripping down my face. Probably could use a couple stitches....... haaaaa

View attachment phpHd7UUIPM.jpg

View attachment phpI68z0bPM.jpg

View attachment phpXJ1sraPM.jpg
 
younggun2.0 said:
lol there is a ratchet about 150 ft into the green belt behind my shop from when i did nearly the same thing.
Click to expand...

Lol, still to pissed off to go get the ratchet? That is some funny chit too!

=crackedback; Don't run with scissors today...
Click to expand...

No kidding!

=68GTconvert; HA! Good one.
Click to expand...

At least it didn't drop me though..... Oh, I was already on my back! lol
 
Ok now I gotta pull the front seat back out and get the shifter hooked up and going. I only have to drill a hole for the Shift cable to go through the floor, wire in 1 relay for the "N-P" Safety and plug in 2 other wires.... Oh forgot I gotta install the TB Valve Body too. Think I will start the car back up drive it around and get the reading on the Trans Dip Stick and put a good mark on it...... I can't remember if I already did that.... Been too damn long! I remember if I fill it to the full line with the new dip stick the trans leaks fluid out of the shift shaft seal real bad from being too full. So the marking is a must so I don't over fill it again.

I should be able to get to this in next few days if not on the weekend. After that the car should pass tech inspection. They don't need to know about the TB! Unless for some odd reason they ask me to put it in Reverse........ Then they will know cause I gotta hit the TB Button to activate Reverse...
 
Go to work, Damn it. Have an similar injury, from a 30-06 rifle. ......
 
Well, I just pulled the trigger on a GZ Motorsports Vacuum Pump VP-104. I chose the cog belt set up. I upgraded to the adjustable Mandrel that accepts a Chevy crank trigger "Save me a couple bucks later cause I don't have to buy a "MOPAR SPECIFIC" one " The upgrade adjustable mandrel requires a new Radiator/Alt Pulley so I got one of them also 5.5". It is 1/2" bigger than the one I have now so it should make up for the 1/2 " smaller Alternator pulley on the new 100amp alternator.

I also bought their bolt in Breather set up and oil fill caps to make the install go easy "No Welding"

New Polished Valve covers are on the way also. I chose not to get their hoses or hose end fittings. I bought the -12 an fittings and hose from getfast1 , my favorite ebay seller for this stuff. Cheapest with free shipping. Of course I chose black fittings!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top