90 PSI Oil Pressure.

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the rear main on my fresh 360 in my Barracuda is gushing...urghh... it was hard to tell one side from the other on install. I should have just ordered a good one instead of risking it... urgh....
 
I didn't have this high of pressure before I replaced the main seal and remote filter adapter o-ring. It used to be 30 at idle and 70 at 5800 RPM. At the moment I don't see any leaks but before it leaked like the Exxon Valdese. Oil made it's way all the way back to the the trunk panel .The Superformance rear main seal seems like the real deal

Ok, lets look at this another way. You're talking about a 20 PSI increase in both the low RPM and high RPM oil pressure. That's not very much. The leak you describe could certainly have been the pressure loss. Does that bring it more into perspective? 20 PSI.
 
Ok, lets look at this another way. You're talking about a 20 PSI increase in both the low RPM and high RPM oil pressure. That's not very much. The leak you describe could certainly have been the pressure loss. Does that bring it more into perspective? 20 PSI.
That's what I was thinking. Not so much the main seal but the o-ring for the remote oil filter relocation kig that seals to the 90° oil adapter. I will keep an eye on things but right now NO OIL LEAKS!!!! Woooo Hooo
 
the rear main on my fresh 360 in my Barracuda is gushing...urghh... it was hard to tell one side from the other on install. I should have just ordered a good one instead of risking it... urgh....
Mbaird,
I feel your pain brother. I had an oil leak on the dyno and it looked like the oil pan gasket. When we got it back home we changed the pan gasket. While changing it one of the grade 8 (probably grade 8 Chinese) pan bolts broke off. We already had Permatex on the gasket and it took about an hour to get the broken bolt out. We put the pan on and put it back into the Dart. Oil leak to the point that it was smoking like a smoke stack at the traffic light (VERY embarrassing). I bought dye and a ultraviolet flashlight and checked for leaks. It looked like it was STILL coming out of the oil pan (not surprised because the Permatex was sitting curing while we were trying to get the bolt out). So I made the unpopular decision to pull the engine and replace the pan gasket AGAIN. While it was out we looked at the main seal. My buddy Larry said "should we just order one and replace it?" NAH according to the dye test it looked like the pan gasket. So I didn't change it (I was in too much of a hurry as cruise season was getting near the end). You guessed it, leaked like crazy and I didn't even take it out of the garage. So an even MORE UNPOPULAR decision was made to pull it again and change the main seal. Ironmike who is on this forum and who I see at the car cruise (He has an AWESOME purple Demon and it looks better in person than it does in pictures) suggested a main seal from Superformance and said that he never had one leak (recommend you get one). So I called them and I spoke with Greg for about a half hour. He is extremely knowledgeable and has over 30 years of experience in gasket design and installation. He told me NO RTV on the seal except for a tiny bit on the end pieces where it meets the block. Also he said if I was going to clock the seal that it shouldn't be any more than 1/3 of an inch. I also found that my oil filter relocation adapter was leaking so I replaced the o-ring. So far no leaks and I am a happy camper. Now if you don't have a windage tray you might be able to (as some here have suggested to me) brop the rear of the pan, unbolt the pump, remove the main cap and fish the seal out and replace it. If I can be of any help to you just ask. Good luck!
 
Thanks for the input... I dont run a windage tray so it should be a fairly straight forward replacement. I never thought about clocking the main seal abit... makes sense. Why doesnt anyone make a 1 peice seal for a mopar ?

I am just hoping it doesnt turn out to be a leaky cam plug or loose oil galley plug !
 
Thanks for the input... I dont run a windage tray so it should be a fairly straight forward replacement. I never thought about clocking the main seal abit... makes sense. Why doesnt anyone make a 1 peice seal for a mopar ?
I am just hoping it doesnt turn out to be a leaky cam plug or loose oil galley plug !

You can try using the dye and ultraviolet flashlight. It might give you a clue as to where it's coming from. Cost is about $20.00 for both from Amazon.
 
doesnt the Torque converter and flexplate just throw it everywhere making it next to impossible to figure out qhere it is coming from ?
Maybe priming the oil pump will push it out in a manner which I could distinguish ???
hmmm.......
 
Probably not... no pressure anywhere directly on the rear seal; just part of what flows out of the rear bearing and does not get slung off. Seal leakage is an 'engine running' thing.
 
k
Probably not... no pressure anywhere directly on the rear seal; just part of what flows out of the rear bearing and does not get slung off. Seal leakage is an 'engine running' thing.

I was refering to the oil galley plugs and maybe cam plug leaking if I prime system.
 
k

I was refering to the oil galley plugs and maybe cam plug leaking if I prime system.
I was thinking the same thing on mine but if I were betting I would think it's going to be the main seal with the way you are describing it as gushing.
 
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